Reinhoud
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Posts posted by Reinhoud
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Usually start with about 30% bigger jets, and go from there.
Best thing is, is get yourself an AFR sensor with gauge, it takes the guesswork out. Sometimes too lean or too rich have somewhat the same symptoms.
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4 hours ago, andyroach said:
I've always found that once you start doing serious tuning on a bike you will never be bored. There's always something else to do, check, modify, etc.
I'm not going down the serious tuning route. At the moment I'd be happy with it running right. It's doing about 18MPG, which is probably down to the needle jets leaking (New ones have arrived about 10 minutes ago). I'm just about to go into the workshop now to fit the airbox, needle jets, clean the carbs again, drop the jetting, fit the GS1000s fairing and take some of the preload off the shocks as it is kicking off bumps in corners.
Once I get it running right, I'll be making some luggage for it so I can do some touring. Got a lot of places I'm going to be visiting now I've dropped down to working 3 days a week . There are some advantages to getting old, but not many
Big bore with a higher CR, other cams and a set of Mikuni RS carbs are a nice upgrade.
The GS1000 responds very nice on porting of the head too, gives it a nice flat torque curve.
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5 hours ago, andyroach said:
I wish I could find my pictures. I have lost the envelope with all the bike pictures in.
That looks like a beast. What kind of power is it putting out at the back wheel?
I've decided to just adda gs1000s fairing, sort the carbs and ride it for the summer or until next summer. I'm finding it too much fun
It hasn't got a lot of power, don't think it gets to 180hp, but it's not slow either.
Previously I had a TD04 turbo on it, that one was making proper power at about 4500rpm. Front wheel came up a little bit from110km/h in 4th gear.
Now I've got a VF23 on it, this turbo doesn't kick in, just the more revs the more power, now I need to do 160 km/h in 4th gear before the front wheel comes up. Just to give an idea.
The only reason I went for the VF23 is, is because it has ball bearings. Plain bearing turbo's won't last long for some reason.
Haven't riden it much lately, need to do some fine tuning, with the VF it doesn't detonate anymore, so I want to find the limit again, advance the ignition and stuff like that, to get a little bit more power out of it.
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On 4/13/2024 at 12:03 AM, scotteslic said:
Would you put a O² sensor in each exhaust tube with allow through
I tried that, but because of the short manifold, the short runners influence each other, so you don't get a proper reading.
At least, that happened with mine.
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It's never perfect from factory.
When you have sprockets with slots in it you can get it like it should.
But I don't think you'll notice a difference when you adjust it like it should.
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My GS1000 with 1247 big bore didn't want run properly on carbs from a 750, put carbs on it from an 1100 and it ran fine
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On 4/15/2024 at 9:34 PM, Duckndive said:
If there's no mark on the advancer then degree wheel is the way ...there not normally a zillion miles out though
or try and find an advancer with both marks when you hit 50 posts or on the bay of thieves
On mine they were spot on
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I've got GSXR1000 wheels, and a front fork of a GSXR600 in mine, 2006 iirc, and a rear fork of a Bandit, yes it makes a difference.
Go for the newest wheels you can find, big chance they're lighter then wheels of older models.
What you mentioned what you had in your engine, I've got about that in mine
I also have stronger rods (493)
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How many rivets isn't interesting, the gaps at the end need to line up with face of the head where the valve cover mates. How is that?
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1 hour ago, Gixer1460 said:
I'd disagree! The fact that an EFI system generally can allow accurate fuel delivery - more or less - at any rpm or load and that ignition timing can be dialled in, also to those parameters means detonation can be minimised to the extent of being virtually un-detectable. It may still occur if a bad batch of fuel is used or climatic conditions are unfavourable but its unlikely to be engine destruction type det. As noted above, det. largely occurs around peak torque and as turbos can produce such wide torque bands the option to take out or add in timing in particular areas will reduce risk.
Personally, this is one reason I ask a dyno tuner to step tune when developing a MAP - go up rev range in steps and stop at each whilst allowing figures to stabilise and optimise fuel & timing there before moving to next step. It puts the engine under a LOT of load for minutes at a time and most tuners don't like doing it but I figure I don't ride at max rpm and max output at all times so I want these areas to be optimal not just at WOT!
Again,; I'm not an expert, I just wrote what my experience is. But when you have a carburated engine you can also have a richer mixture..
How many EFI's run perfect? How many bikes have knock sensors?
I've seen quite a few dyno graphs with a crappy AFR line, while a carburated AFR line is almost perfect..
In theorie a EFI can be/should better then a caruretor, in reality, how many really are?
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33 minutes ago, peter1127 said:
I don’t think the speed in which it spools up results in problems. Afaik detonation when turbocharged occurs around peak torque, or at prolonged high rpm when everything gets ff hot. Both have nothing to do with spooling up.
I can imagine a poorly chosen turbo heats up air more which doesn’t help.efi and carbs both are fine as long as afr is correct. You can run into fuel starvation with carbs when you turn down the pressure too much to prevent flooding. Then again there are multiple ways to f up efi too :-)
I had a TD04 on my GS, kicked in nicely, had a bit of detonation. The VF20 I had had quite a bit of detonation, spooled up real quick! The TD05 I had had hardly had any detonation, spooled up sort of slow, but still kicked in. Got a VF23 now, doesn't kick in, spools up even slower then the TD05, although it's smaller, no detonation at all.
So, according to my experience, the slower the turbo spools up, the less detonation.
Also, apparently, the slower the turbo spools up (or kicks in at higher RPM), the less change con rods fail...
No expert, but I do have some experience with different set ups
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On 3/29/2024 at 9:38 PM, peter1127 said:
Got the MTC 81mm 10:1 pistons. They are much beefier around the wristpin area. They are now boring and honing the cylinder block. Before I mentiioned I want the CR to be 8:1 - 8.5:1. Reading a bit more in various places I think its a bit too low for a road bike. 9:1 should give faster spoolup and better low end while it should enable 15psi on 98 octane resulting in around 270hp. (input welcome)
Played in CAD with the pistons to see what could be done to lower the CR while maintaining squish. Around 4cc should be cut from the piston to achieve 9:1. Thing is, in the middle of the piston is a relatively thin area of 5mm which I think I should leave alone. A bit surprised that turbo/nitrous pistons have a thin area in the middle. Maybe because they mainly make high compression pistons from this casting? The rest of the piston is 9mm so I could reduce that by milling out a ring 1.5mm deep. Of course I'm first going to verify deck height and actual compression volume before ruining new pistons
Does that make sense, or does that f@ck up combustion in such way that it would be better to add a spacerplate and accept the larger squish?
unmodified MTC 81mm
Unmodified MTC 81mm
Bottom of MTC piston
Modified MTC
Modified 81mm MTC
Modified 81mm MTC thickness check
Not much experience;
What I noticed, the sort of turbo, as in, how fast it spools up, determines a lot if you get detonation or not.
AFAIK, there are a few guys here who have EFI who have no problems with detonation.
In hindside, I'm not sure that they don't have problems with detonation because of the EFI, or the sort of turbo..
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15 hours ago, badger said:
Same turbo and does similar. Mine starts boost about 3500rpm, stays at about 10psi for ages but doesn't hit 1 bar until 8-9k. (14psi spring and I do get boost creep sometimes). I'm sure it used to build boost a lot quicker but I'm questioning that.
To those that know, would a softer, say 6psi spring and a digital boost controller alter that characteristic letting the controller cap the limit higher, i.e 15psi etc?
If you ever use a boost controler, use one with a ball and spring. These build up boost way faster. Bleed valves just bleed/leak, this takes longer to actuate the waste gate.
Ball spring controllers you recognise on nipples on the bottom, and one 90 degrees on the side
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14 hours ago, badger said:
Same turbo and does similar. Mine starts boost about 3500rpm, stays at about 10psi for ages but doesn't hit 1 bar until 8-9k. (14psi spring and I do get boost creep sometimes). I'm sure it used to build boost a lot quicker but I'm questioning that.
To those that know, would a softer, say 6psi spring and a digital boost controller alter that characteristic letting the controller cap the limit higher, i.e 15psi etc?
Interesting... The more revs, the more power, but it never gets really exciting.. With the TD04 it starting to lift the front wheel in 4th gear at 110km/h, now it needs to do 160km/h before it does lift the front wheel, just to give an idea.
It looks like there's a boost leak, but there isn't, I think..
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I just remembered that about 12 years ago Dynoman send me accidently a GSX gasket set imnstead of a GS gasket set, I also have a GS headgasket laying around..
The dowel pins, and the 4 studs between cylinder 1 and 2 and cylinder 3 and 4 are the same with the GSX and GS. The 4 outer studes, and the 4 studs beside the cam tunnel are different.
A GSX cylinder block will not fit on a GS crankcase.
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Not sure if helpful;
Years ago I had problems with my GS1000, ran like crap, couldn't figure out what was wrong with it.
I always buy parts from a Suzuki dealer, Suzuki says you should use Denso or NGK sparkplugs, at that moment I had Denso sparkplugs in it. Can't remember why, but I bought new sparkplugs, NGK this time, all problems gone...
So, before you start replacing the expensive stuff, are your sparkplugs alright? A good spark outside the cylinder doesn't mean it's ok, I've learnt..
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Do the gsx cylinder block fit over the gs studs?
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3 hours ago, Arttu said:
I think your boost drop is actually boost spike
It's probably caused by the wastegate actuator in combination with your boost regulator. Maybe the actuator has more volume so when the gate starts to open it needs more air through the regulator before the gate is properly open and that causes delay. And if the actuator has softer spring you need to turn the regulator more close which slows down the reaction too. You can test it without the regulator and see how it works then.
Gradual boost building might be just a feature of the turbo but that's hard to say without detailed data. One explanation could be that the VF23 has bigger A/R turbine side. I think my VF34 behaves more or less same way. It starts to build little boost pretty early, slightly above 3000rpm. But it needs quite much more rpms to reach full boost, over 5000rpm for 1 bar. So there isn't any violent kick at any point, it just pushes harder and harder as the revs rise.
Aha, I didn't look at it like that.. It does look like that with this turbo the last 3 psi do way more as with the TD04
With no boost regulator it's the same. So it's the nature of the beast then, mine does the same as what you discribe.
I thought I might have a little leak somewhere in the exhaust or the valve of the wastegate.
Problem solved then
I thought that because TD05 is bigger the VF should spool up quicker as the TD.
What I did notice, with the VF I don't have detonation anymore.
Thanks
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Hi all,
I had a TD04 on my bike (GS1000), put a VF23 on it, have the same boost regulator with a ball and a spring.
When I give it to her now, the boost gauge goes to 15 psi, and after about a second it drops to about 11/12 psi.
It never did that with the TD04. I know I can solve it by raising the boost a bit, but might there be something wrong?
I also think the VF23 spools up a bit slow, the TD04 was more fun. I had a TD05 on it when I did put a turbo on it, it was a bit laggy, but on boost it went very well!!
The VF23 comes in very gradually, doesn't really kick in, the more revs the harder it goes, but never really exciting, the TD05 did get exciting and that's supposed to be a bigger turbo.
For some reason I think there's something wrong. I disconnected the wastegate, it still spools up the same way, makes a fair amount of boost, gave me a bit of a fright
I thought I ask before I start disassembling parts of the bike..
Something wrong, or is it a property of this turbo?
Thanks
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On 2/26/2024 at 7:46 PM, johnr said:
Is it that o ring that's leaking? Plenty of oil leaks on heads are due to the o rings on the centre cylinders head nuts.
O-rings on centrel cylinder head nuts?
The outer nuts have copper washers, but I never have seen O-rings on other nuts..
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For making the holes in the crankcase bigger, I did it like this with my GS1000;
Make yourself a disc, 1 side the diameter of the new barrel, the other side the diameter of the headgasket.
Put the dowel pins in the crankcase, put the headgasket with the disc in it over the dowel pins, push disc down and draw a line around it.
Now take material way with a barrel grinder, finish it with those wheels with emery.
Takes about 45 minutes per hole/barrel.
For making the base gasket bigger, also do this with a/the disc
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On 3/1/2024 at 6:12 AM, Duckndive said:
Yeap your 1st challenge will be getting the studs out
2 nuts at the top, tighten them properly, and turn them out with the lower nut, put a ring spanner over the stud first.
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Can't you make the clutch control hydraulic?
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GS1000st cam timing.
in Air Cooled
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Your valve seats will not burn because of cam timing! That's not enough/no valve clearence.
How were the gaps in the cams aligned with the head? Becaase it needs to be WAY of before it causes to not wanting to fire up.
I'm pretty sure you had different problems then the cam timing.