Reinhoud
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Posts posted by Reinhoud
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I can make something for you, but it's then made from steel, and you'll need an hydraulic controlled clutch.
Take of the part where the clutch control is in, bolt on a steel brim, not very big, with lexan bolted in it.
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Your main problem is the clutch controler, or whatever you want to call it..
When you make the clutch hydraulic it shouldn't be a problem.
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I made one myself.
The biggest challenge was to find a pipe, or whatever, what goes over the basket..
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Ask Nick from SPS, he might know someone. He's usually pretty helpful
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I would check your sprocket cover too, because that should somewhat support the shifter shaft too.
If that hole isn't slogged out, your hole in the crankcase should still be ok..
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On 10/14/2022 at 9:26 PM, wraith said:
You can get sump gaskets off eblag for under £10 posted. Ok not OEM but, I've never used a OEM gasket as they are way to much money and can't say I've have problems with aftermarket gaskets.
Some aftermarket gaskets can leak pretty easy. The valve cover of the GS gasket is a good example for that.
Ther's a company in the US who sells a pretty decent quality gaskets, see if I can find it..
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On 10/14/2022 at 8:45 PM, Swiss Toni said:
Nobody make their own gaskets anymore? Held to ransom by Cometic? Fuck ‘em!
I do occaisonally, but the reconditioning companies around here don't sell the best quality of gasket paper.
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On 10/14/2022 at 8:41 PM, Gixer1460 said:
That really is taking the piss by Cometic considering you can get a whole complete engine gasket set for just about double the price - https://www.Eblag.com.sg/itm/115482360768?hash=item1ae348fbc0:g:0D4AAOSw6-Vi6SIr and Vertex are a good brand but not Cometic
I wonder how much a full set from Cometic would cost ? ? ?
Vertex is good?
Nick is usually pretty expensive! But he does deals, with me at least, then his prices are normal.
When I bought my 493 rods, he had them for sale too. I paid 149AUD at the Suzuki dealer, Nick had then priced at 150 GBP, almost twice as much.
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On 10/7/2022 at 10:18 AM, wraith said:
+1 on the above, but the sump gaskets are not costly, so I'd get a new one and refit with some RTV.
They're not available anymore.
Oh, I couldn't find one not too long ago.
Now I see Cometic sells them, they're not cheap.
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On 10/9/2022 at 4:25 AM, Hardassfunk said:
Just picked up this GS750. Plans are to chop off the subframe and stick a brown seat on it. . . . Not!
Will be keeping it relatively standard apart from a B12 swingarm and possibly a front brake upgrade,so have a couple of questions please guys
is it possible to keep the standard wheels with a B12 swingarm?
Any calipers that are a simple swap for the front end?
When a lathe and a mill are available, your imagination is about the limit. Skills do help a bit
I've got a B12 swinger in my GS1000, and it looks like the B12 swinger is designed for the GS (looks wise) I did need to make some bushes
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On 10/9/2022 at 5:21 PM, jensvonbustenskjold said:
I'm currently using a Dyna S ignition system. The old system was function perfect, but I'm using my bike for commuting, and I really need it to work. So I made a new wiring harness, and swapped all electrical components.
I cannot tell the difference, other than my bike starts easier.
It kicks right at it with refurbished starter motor, new relay and ignition system.
Easy to install.
I've heard that the quality is poor. It might be. Haven't had it not than one summer
I've read that more people had problems with the Dyna breaking down.
But then I wonder, how is it mounted? Is it just bolted on the frame? Or is it suspended in rubbers?
I've had electronics breaking down because I just bolted it on the frame, as soon as I suspended it in rubbers, the problems were solved..
My Dyna 2000 is doing alright for the last 10 years
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19 hours ago, Wagola said:
ALOOMINUM................that's the one that gets me !
Me too, but I learnt not too long ago that the Americans pronounce it actually pretty close as what aluminium was called whwen it was invented/discovered/made.
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2 hours ago, Jimothy72 said:
Ooh do I spy a turbo? toying with the idea of a supercharger but I have no idea where to start unfortunately
Get yourself forged pistons, make sure you've a lathe and mill available, get yourself a supercharger..
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On 10/3/2021 at 5:45 AM, Blubber said:
Some of my colleagues pressed the wrong button by accident.
He blames the beers he had
I restored it.
That's a legit reason!!
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On 9/18/2022 at 6:55 PM, Fredrik_Steen said:
What are your favourite myths on turbo or suzuki oilcooled engines?
I mostly wonder why Americans call an engine a moder
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On 9/16/2022 at 10:24 AM, OldSoul67 said:
I'll look up some numbers on that size and see what i can come up with, that might be a good option especially the fact that its ball bearing since the gs750 doesn't make a lot of oil pressure
You won't find any info of that turbo..
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I had a VF20 turbo on my GS1000 with 1245 big bore.
Turbo was on the small side for mine, but probably would be good on a 750, this is a ball bearing turbo.
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21 hours ago, Fredrik_Steen said:
What works NA also works with boost.
There are plenty of test's out on Youtube on the topic.
I run this camshafts that has a lot of duration with good results
What CR do you have?
These are the cams I have in mine.
I also have another set of cams what has a mm extra lift, 2 mm extra lift over stock.
These cams need a higher CR, or else the bike becomes less powerful instead of more..
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17 minutes ago, Gixer1460 said:
Big cams always come with large overlap numbers which is not what turbos want. No point making boost and blowing it straight out of the exhaust!
2 valve heads have more lift then 4 valve heads?
With high lift automaticly comes more overlap? I guess?
Just thinking, sse a lot of modern bikes with turbos, more modern bikes have more lift and overlap then the oldies..
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Gents,
One hand just curious, other hand, what if?
I've got an Suzuki GS1000, 1245cc big bore, 119grind Webcams +1mm lift, 2 valve, cr 8:1, 15 psi boost
I've got a set of high performance cams, that much lift that the head needed to be modified, IIRC 284 degrees timing. These cams make the bike slower with stock pistons.
These cams, is that a no go already? Or would they have a positive result? Say, would they be beneficiary with my set up? Is it possible to change the timing so they have a positive result?
I assume that when you add lift, you change the timing?
Thanks for any information
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Gents,
I've got a Frankenstein bike.
GS1000 with a Bandit 1200 swing arm incl. linkage. I bought a 2002 GSXR1000 rear shock for it.
Rear suspension travel is 13cm, when I sit on it it drops about 6cm, with the spring set it it's tightest. Now I need a stiffer spring.
Does anyone know what the sprin rate is for the stock spring? I've read somewhere it's 77N/mm, no clue if this is right.
I weigh about 96kg, should one step up be ok?
Thanks
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On 8/31/2022 at 12:18 AM, Jonny said:
I'm replacing the head gasket on my EFE with a fibre one. I have the factory manual but it doesn't mention their usage. I think they had MLS gaskets anyways. So my question is should I use a sealing compound with the fibre gasket or not?
Thanks, Jonny
No
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Does it has enough travel?
I just bought a Brembo clutch master, the Nissin had a 14mm piston, the Brembo has 13..
My clutch hardly works, after some detective work I found out that the Brembo has about 10mm less travel on the piston, therefore I need to build a slave cylinder with a smaller diameter.
You need a minimum of 3mm travel on the pressure plate of the clutch, to disengage it properly.
So, the content of the clutch master (surface area X travel) need to be the same as the slave cylinder (surface area X travel)
I can do some calculations for you, but I need details from you;
Diameter piston old pump + travel
Diameter new pump + travel
Diameter Slave cylinder
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Oil leak
in Forced Induction
Posted
Gentlemen, I've got a problem what doesn't makes sense, or; I can't find the logic..
I'll try to discribe it as wel as possible. Can take photo's if it's not clear enough.
Problem;
Whenever the bike is parked after use, after about 1 or 2 days an oil leak develops, it's getting worse the longer it's parked. The oil comes from the scavenge tank.
The scavenge works fine, sucks more oil up as what the turbo can give it.
Scavenge tank holds about 300cc.
The thing is; oil keeps dripping from the turbo after about a day, and it doesn't make sense why.. The scavenge catch tank is big enough to hold the oil from the turbo and the oil feed line.
The setup;
Because of the rollerbearing crank I made an oil feed pump for the turbo, and an oil scavenge pump. The scavenge pump is bigger then the feed. The scavenge sucks up more oil then the feed can provide.
The feed pump is on the pottom of the sump, at the lowest point of the engine. Because of this the oil would start leaking through the pump into the turbo.
To solve this problem I made a loop in the oil feed line, this loop is about 4cm above the oil level.
The scavenge pump is also above the oil level, so it can't be leaking from there
I don't think there can be any pressure in the crankcases, breathers are big enough.
The only thing what I can think of is the oil feed line, but it has that loop in it, and the top of the loop ends up about 4cm above the oil level, and when there's no pressure in the crankcase, nothing can be pushed out... ??
Anyone who has an idea what might cause this?
Feel free to ask questions if it's not clear enough.
Thanks