Reinhoud
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Posts posted by Reinhoud
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5 minutes ago, Duckndive said:
Its not HP that kills rods is Tune "Detonation Kills everything"
Dept on wizzer and carb 250hp on a draw thru is a hoot on the road ...
you rapidly run out of straight
I don't know what went wrong with mine, all it took was F-ing around with the ignition timing and a mis-shift, and that was enouh to destroy the crank case/ con rod / valve cover
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19 minutes ago, imago said:
Just had a look at the rods, basically it's a thousand eruos/pounds for a set of four. The costs are mounting, so I'll price it up properly and run the numbers as well as looking at just how much benefit I'd get from a set of rods. i.e. are they sufficiently stronger to warrant the money, or do I limit the engine to 250hp and stick with the stock rods.
Do it right straight away!!! With a turbo you can do it accidentally right, and stuf everyting up, Been there, done that..
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18 minutes ago, imago said:
Just had a look at the rods, basically it's a thousand eruos/pounds for a set of four. The costs are mounting, so I'll price it up properly and run the numbers as well as looking at just how much benefit I'd get from a set of rods. i.e. are they sufficiently stronger to warrant the money, or do I limit the engine to 250hp and stick with the stock rods.
I paid 149 AUD each for a conrod, at the Suzuki dealer. Don't look at Suzuki Performance Spares, he asks the same in GBP
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New bearings for a roller bearing crank isn't cheap!! And getting the big end bearings might be a challenge. To get the big ends for my GS1000 turned out to be a big challenge! Lots of companies said they had them, only 2 could actually deliver..
Stronger rods were actually quite a bit cheaper than I thought.
I put 493 rods on my GS1000 crank, Had to take 0.5mm off from each side. Order the rods from the Suzuki dealer, costed me 149AUD each, make sure you order the rods with the same colour code!!!! The difference is in the weight.
You don't state what bottom you're going to use; a GS1000 bottom with 493 (GSX) rods need a 1mm plate under the cylinders because the rods are longer.
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I'm going to make a new plenum, I want velocity stacks in it, and hopefully it's going to be easier to take it off.
I also going to follow the lines of the side covers a bit better / closer.
The up-pipe is goin to have the same diameter, but beter welds, and more smooth. Mostly on the inside..
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Again, not sure about the diameter!
The plenum is 2.5 liter, twice the size of the displacement.
Plenum isn't that great, mostly the connection to the carburetors.
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21 minutes ago, Joseph said:
No drawings
Interested in what you find out. Also whats the general diameter idea on these ?
Not sure, 14mm outside diameter IIRC
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20 minutes ago, Joseph said:
No drawings
Interested in what you find out. Also whats the general diameter idea on these ?
Uuuuhhh
Fixed it..
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I crashed my bike about 5 months ago (P-plater doing a turn out of the blue), now I'm rebuilding it, and (try to) make some improvements along the way...
I'm going to make a new plenum with (sort of) velocity stacks, the up pipe is also something where there's something to improve.
My bike was running fine! The up-pipe doesn't look that great, and the inside looks even worse, so I thought may be I can improve that..
The pitot tubes I have in my up-pipe come from a sub-frame from a FZR250, this had a good diameter and a fairly tight bend in the pipe.
The plan is to make a new up-pipe and have it TIG welded by someone who knows what he's doing, but the pitot tubes are the challenge, and this is not something I'd like to experiment with...
No 1; is how I have it at the moment.
My question; does it matter what shape the pitot tubes have?
I don't want to use the old ones because they look like crap.
I'm not able to get a "sharp" bend in the tubes as what I have now, I can make the tubes at the right size, a / the sharp-ish bend is the problem.
So I've got 2 options; a 90 degree angle in the tube, like no 2 in the drawing, or a straight pipe into the uppipe with a 45 degree agle on the bottom as in drawing no 3.
Anyone who knows more about these things?
Thanks.
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17 hours ago, Jdeac said:
That's not a bad idea..
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23 hours ago, Pegleg said:
Can't get a steady reading on the inline guage I use for set up, maybe need a better guage. Carbs are balanced.
Main jets size 115.
Needle clip position second from the top.
Air screws 3 turns out.Will try cutting the spring.
Thanks.
First get a proper gauge.
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17 hours ago, Pegleg said:
Been for the first test run
Fuckin awesome, shoulda done it years ago
Few minor issues. Idle is very hit and miss. Bigger pilots have been suggested but could anyone recommend a size? Rough as bollox pulling away from a standstill. Clears at 2000 ish rpm.
Malpassi regulator fitted but can't get steady pressure whichever way I turn the screw. Anticlockwise to reduce pressure?
Think its getting too much oil to the unidentified 'Chineseum' turbo. Any suggestions for a restrictor size.
Don't get a lot of time to tinker with it so any help saves time.
Ta.
Did you check the fuel pressure?
I had to shorten the spring in mine, 1.5 / 2 psi is what you want.
If you have everything right it should be pretty close to stock, if the bike ran alright before turbo'ing it, it should run ok with a turbo.
Don't guess, meassure!!
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17 hours ago, imago said:
One other thing came up, and that's to use a standard head rather than the Upperton big valve ported head. Basically it brings bugger all to the turbo party so it will be saved for a NA engine.
Ported / gasflowed defenitly makes a difference! At least, that's my experience..
My gasflowed head gives a way more agressive throttle response, over a ported head.
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19 hours ago, gorbys said:
Mine is originally a 750. Do you have a picture of how you mounted the upper shock mount?
Ah, thanks.
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8 hours ago, SMARTY said:
Hi how are you, can you make custom bushes?
I can...
What are the tolerances?
What material?
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If you get desperate, I have a 16mm master cylinder from a GS1000, live in OZ
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On 8/28/2023 at 8:01 PM, gorbys said:
Bandit 1200 fits without mods. You need to machine adapters for the pivot bearings and bolt and weld on shock mounts.
Also I'd advise using a 170 tire instead of the bandits original 180 for better fram clearance...
I've got a Bandit swingarm too. Is yours also a 1000??
Just had to make bushes into the existing bushes.
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On 9/1/2023 at 12:34 PM, DeegzARG said:
I swapped to iridium because I was told it might help a bit with idling. I don’t notice much of a difference though. I’ll check the plugs again sometime down the road. I’m still learning about the wrenching side of bikes, a lot to learn for sure.
If you want a smoother idle you need copper core plugs..
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14 hours ago, johnr said:
ive an 1170 yoshi kitted motor where the rod and piston from number 2 pot did that but instead of dropping down it just popped out of the front of the crankcases!
Photo?
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Think so.
What's the problem?
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I've got 1mm more lift in my GS1000.
My experience is, use the stock timing, everything else creates a poorer / sluggish throttle respomse, and on boost there's no / hardly any difference.
What I also know from experience; Say, the GS1000 with "hot" (284 dgrees IIRC) cams won't work on a stock CR, it makes it actually slower/sluggish.
How this works with a turbo I have no idea, but probably not well.
So, probably best, keep it stock, or close to.
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Connect an O2 sensor with gauge, and this tells you if the carburfuckingettors are tuned properly
Air cooled bottom end.
in Forced Induction
Posted
That's the majority of those sellers i found out..
Again, SUZUKI DEALER!!!!!