Reinhoud
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Posts posted by Reinhoud
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Looks like the brake and clutch cylinders are different models of the Bandit MK1
Any one here who can/wants to post a photo of the handle bars of a Bandit, like the photo I posted?
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Think I found it.
Looks like my clutch master is a Bandit 1200 MK1
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4 minutes ago, fatblokeonbandit said:
Nope Mk1 is early 1996-2000, 1200 oily cooled, Mk2 is later 2000-2006 oil cooled
1250 is the so called Mk3 water cooled but shouldnt be called a Bandit at all.
I have a pair of Mk1 1200 mastercylinders at home, ill dom pic after work, but levers are differant between Mk1 and 2, due to slight differences in the master cylinders.
Lots of places advertise the same after market lever for Mk1 and 2's but they dont fit both.............
Back doing a search then..
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Starting to think that my clutch master cylinder isn't from a Bandit..
No clue from what it comes then, anyone who has an idea?
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MK1 is 1200, MK2 is 1250?
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You only need one when the clutch starts slipping.
You hardly notice any difference with a normal clutch, maybe a bit heavier clutch lever at high revs.
Keep adding weights till it doesn't slip anymore, doesn't have to be much.
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Same model
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Men, Women, fairy tale creatures;
I've got a brake and clutch master cylinder on my GS1000 from a Bandit, AFAIK.
I'd like to get the brake master in the same model as my clutch master cylinder.
I think the clutch is from a GSF1200, and the brake from a GSF1250. When I start Googling, the clutch and brake still don't match.
I'm pretty sure the brake has a 14mm piston in it.
Anyone knows which brake baster cylinder will match my clutch master cylinder? Model and year, please?
Thanks
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On 7/23/2022 at 6:48 PM, Joseph said:
It was the pencil can i had on my katana
It is obnoxiously loud in stock form, i added a baffler to help somewhat.
I only chose it because of the tube arrangement, the SRAD fork lowering the bike quite a lot, it needed road clearance somehow.
Welds look Bad, if it were stainless it would be fine, but italian chrome will not last, thats just a fact
You had the same as I have in the photo? Mine isn't too loud. Won't say it's quiet, but not over the top
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On 7/22/2022 at 4:30 PM, jensvonbustenskjold said:
I've been wondering the same myself for a gs1000. In the end sound of Marving is not my ideal sound. That's only my opinion after checking out some sound samples on YouTube. It was too baaafhh
I prefer Delkevic, VH etc. Got an old Marshall system on her now. Sounds deep and neat. Staying on for now
My Marving sounds pretty alright, not too loud and that nice old style raw growl
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On 7/20/2022 at 2:58 AM, Coleman said:
Hi, Quick question , has anyone on here tried The marving exhaust for a gsx 1100 ef, they seem fairly good value but are they any good. Just bought a standard 1100 ef and want to get rid of the original pipe. Many thanks
I had one on my GS1000, the Racing.
Wasn't high performance, no clue what it does compared to the stock exhaust.
Pretty decent quality, sounds alright too!!
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On 7/11/2022 at 4:47 AM, GSX1100dreamn said:
Standard 10.25 cr.
standard cams but degreed in at 106 deg.
Was looking at commuter street rideability that is why the specs are a bit tame just splashed out on CC.
Have you been experimenting with different deree settings of the cams?
106 is about standard, isn't it?
I have a little bit with mine, and on my bike the engine ran at it's best at stock setting. If I set the timing different the bike got sluggish, slow throttle response
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My GS1000 had the same problem, but at a lower rpm, it had K&N filters, AFR was all right through the whole RPM range, except that one dip.
I just learnt to live with it, till I started to modify stuff
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On 7/4/2022 at 6:05 PM, GSX1100dreamn said:
My daily GSX is 1260 in standard GSX block.
What CR do you have?
No clue how it is with the GSX, but the higher CR on the GS did a bit. This was with a 1085cc kit.
Now I've got a 1247cc with lower CR, and that has quite a bit of poke before boost comes in. But hard to say with the 1085 kit if it was the higher CR or more displcement, most likely a bit of both.
What I did learn, performance cams on a stock CR makes your bike slower instead of faster
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11 hours ago, wraith said:
What piston's you using?
JE
Mine don't come from here.
But this guy sells a lot of go fast stuff
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How close to stock is your bike? If it's very close to stock, you shouldn't start changing jet sizes.
With problems like this, always make sure the basics are ok, valve clearence, spark plugs, carbs working properly, and synchronisation, that kind of stuff.
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8 hours ago, bob654 said:
Thank you. To all.
So busy day.
Checked the carbs over, found main jet O rings were perished so changed them.
Put in 115 main jets
Tweaked the Ignition timing, a little.
Removed the inline filter.
Reset the carbs by ear.
Compression is good.
Then started doing trial runs.
1/ Over all not much improvements and still having problems reaching top end.
So
2/ Did a run without baffle, ( wow loud or what), seemed freer no real difference.
3/ Removed air filter box side,********** YES that's the solution, massive improvement.*********
4/ Put baffle back in, no real difference.
5/ Took out the Air Filter, then put side of box back on, back to poor response.
6/ Baffle in Air box sides off 100mph. ( Private road.)
The problem seems to be Lack Of Air.
What now?
Drill holes in the Air Box?Hmm, if the bike is stock it should be alright, what condition is the air filter?
The air filter box should have a hole in it to suck the air through, is that open?
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1230cc
I've got a 1247cc on my GS1000, it's realy torquie from just below 2000rpm, I love it.
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15 hours ago, bob654 said:
Hi again,
So recap and latest work done.
Suzuki GS750 USA import 78.
Everything done. Head skimmed, carbs rebuilt, Primary jets standard, main 110 . Vannes and Hines 4 into 1 , standard air box, resealed, new rubbers + clamps airbox and head,no leaks, Dynatek s coils, new leads, and plug caps are NGK, new clutch plates too.
My question or problem is... Bike seems to be working hard to get up to 70 then wont go further.
So far I've checked for clutch slip, wondered if I need to increase main jet size,or if its my advance ignition timing, I also have an inline fuel filter.
Going to look at these tomorrow, and also do some chop tests.
Anything you guys can add would be a great help.
What brand sparkplugs?
Mine doesn't want to run properly on Denso. Took me a while to figure that out
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Pour a bit of oil in the pump, turn the gears a bit, that should be alriht, the pump suck pretty good
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4 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:
Straight cut gears aren't necessarily 'stronger' but they minimise side pressure on the clutch basket - helical gears are stronger as they have more teeth contacting at any one point, run quieter but do induce side loading, they also absorb more power - only fractional due to forgoing points but its there!
I know
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On 6/29/2022 at 8:30 AM, busa1300 said:
My straight cut crank primary showed up from MTC today.
Next step is to start looking for crank bearings. Thinking GS1150 bearings are the same size but have more balls in the races…? Research time again.
Do you actually need straight cut gears? from about 180hp I would consider this.
The bearings are very expensive, while you're there you want new big end bearings too, and there's the challange, lot of companies say they have them, hardly anyone can actually deliver, I think I bought the last 4 what were available..
https://www.cmsnl.com/suzuki-gs1000-1979-n-general-export-e01_model13512/bearing_0926432002/
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I wouldn't trust it for one bit!
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Brake master cylinder Bandit
in Oil Cooled
Posted
V strom comes close by the looks of it