Reinhoud
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Posts posted by Reinhoud
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I've had an accident with my GS1000, the frame is bend, another frame is not an option, can't find one where I live, having one send over is way too expensive..
Thinking of fixing the frame, but I'd like to know some angles before I make a decision.
I'd like to know the angle of both the top tubes, with the angle gauge on. I zero'd the gauge on the bottom tube under the engine.
When you have a good look you can see where the frame is bend.
The angle in the top tubes already would help, mine is kinked in the bend.
Thanks
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Does it has the stock timing marks? If yes, use that.
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On 3/6/2023 at 1:47 AM, Arttu said:
It isn't that straightforward to tell what power some parts can handle since there are multiple other factors affecting too. For example rpms stress the rods more than just power. Hard launches on prepped track are often main reason for breaking cases and so on.
But as far as I know stock GSX rods, 493 Katana rods and EFE ones, are often used on 500-600hp Funny bikes. So they really can handle some serious power. If we are talking about GSX cases I think they are still realtively reliable around 500hp. They can handle even more but at 800hp level this kind views tend to get more common.
Damn, you would almost be proud of blowing it up like that
I had to remove material to allow for the bigger sleeves, therefore the material around a couple of studs is a bit thin, I would think that the cylinder block would rip out the studs.
The hard launch I knew, sounds logic.
I blew mine up after mis shifting, and f-ing around with the ignition timing, I did accidentaly somthing right.
The amount of RPM I'm aware of too, piston speed and the weight of the pistons.
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4 hours ago, Arttu said:
Well, the Katana rods can handle over 500hp so no wonder if they look beefier...
Wow!! I thought somewhere around 300..
Maybe I should give mine more boost then
You know what crankcases can handle?
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54 minutes ago, Niqueman14 said:
quick question does this same rule apply for if you have a couple mm over stroker crankshaft?? or is this only for longer con rods??
Only halve of the extra stroke
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On 4/4/2019 at 1:47 AM, clivegto said:
There the same weight but fiscally bigger.
Damn, 493 Katana rods look beefier.. No idea if that's the case.
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On 2/28/2017 at 5:44 PM, MeanBean49 said:
This is my setup. Works really well
Do you know where that intercooler comes from?
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I figured that out, but people try to get a proper running bike, gasflowed heads, proper exhaust manifolds, and then screw it all up with a intake manifold like that?
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Something different, with the draw through set ups I always see the square intake manifolds.
Wouldn't the bike run way better when the intake manifolds runners have smooth bends/runners?
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It's not hard to do yourself, you need a press and a copper hammer, 2 dial indicators and a lot of patience
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Does a GSX crank fit in a GS crankcase? If yes I can do it, but the postage will make you cry
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6 minutes ago, Gixer1460 said:
For a good machinist, its not a big deal. Probably the longest operation is getting the top of the case parallel to bed of the machine. Centering the boring head on each bore is pretty painless. Agreed though that machining is the way to go for tighter fit. If, for example you took your case now to a machinist, say, for bigger sleeves, the job would be more complicated due to the DIY metal removal not leaving a uniform concentric circle to centre the machine on - pros & cons!
Installing the case on the tables is not as easy as it might look I think, it has to be on the right angle
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On 1/25/2023 at 10:52 AM, Maggotbreath said:
Dam good idea! I paid good money to have a crankcase machined, it's a dam nice fit but could have DIY instead!
Machinein is most likely the better way to go, if set up correctly there's probably less material taken away.. At least it looks better.
But you need to have a machine shop what's willing to put some effort in it...
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On 1/8/2023 at 1:25 AM, TonyGee said:
I love riding my GSX11 but one thing that I don't like is the heavy clutch pull. I have R.A. so its a real struggle to pull when in traffic and just ruins the experience !!! if it wasn't for the R.A. i'd live with it. ive fitted new plates and standard springs, a new cable and even a needle bearing at the clutch lever pivot bolt and its no better. so I thought about using one of them clutchlite things, it only the cheap Chinese one but its made a difference, its about 30% lighter which i can live with , the only draw back is it looks shite on the bars
Didn't read any replies...
Can't you make the lever on the engine/clutch longer?
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All you need is a block of aluminium, a mill and an someone who can weld aluminium... Or am I thinking too simple?
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On 12/18/2015 at 9:36 AM, Leblowski said:
This is your bike with a hsr 42
http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r261/proffie_bucket/Draw%20Through%20Drawings/Copyof103_0372.jpg
http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r261/proffie_bucket/Draw%20Through%20Drawings/109_0951.jpg
http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r261/proffie_bucket/Draw%20Through%20Drawings/Copyof102_0221.jpg
http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r261/proffie_bucket/Draw%20Through%20Drawings/T4E50_Mach.jpg
Does Robinjo owns this bike now?
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No clue how it goes with a GSX engine, but with my GS engine I had to remove material from the crankcases to allow for the bigger sleeves.
I made a disc, one side had the diameter from the stock base gasket, the other side had the outside diameter of the bigger sleeves.
Put the disc and the base gasket over/on the crankcases, draw a line on the crankcases, and start removing material with a barrel grinder.
This is slow process, took me about an hour per cylinder.
With this disc you can also draw lines on the geasket to cut it out to the right size to use it on the cylinders. To cut it out I use nail clippers.
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I've got a 1247cc big bore on my GS1000, with mine I had to put some liquid gasket around the sleeves / cylinderblock.
The O-rings didn't fit anymore. Used an artist brush to get it where I wanted it.
No clue how this is with different brands
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On 11/14/2022 at 12:06 AM, larry996 said:
I purchased an OEM gasket. Would you guys recommend I use any RTV or mount the gasket dry?
No!! I do put grease on the gasket, mostly so it doesn't stick to the engine parts, and hopefully it can be used again... Sometimes it can, sometimes it can't
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Some experience from me..
Long time ago I owned a Suzuki DR500, off roader. I wanted to raise the rear, the front was already raised with the USD front forks from a RM250.
I sat on the bike, had a mate measure how much the rear dropped, measured the distance from the bolts of the shocks.
Made up wooden sticks with the dimensions of the shocks when I sit on the bike..
Made brackets to mount the shocks in at the rear forks. Installed the wooden sticks with the bottom brackets bolted on it.
Jacked up the bike that far that the chain still ran freely over the rear forks, and welded the brackets on.
To, a little bit, of my surprise this worked perfectly!!
I was a bit afraid that with the changed angle of the shocks it would make a difference, but I could neglect this..
I hope this can help you out a bit
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23 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:
It's clear as glass - even written with words at top of sheet - 230hp @ 9.5k
I can hardly read it on my computer..
Bit better on my phone.
GS1000 frame, angles
in Air Cooled
Posted
Still need to know the angles..