-
Posts
1,170 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Posts posted by Reinhoud
-
-
On 8/9/2023 at 9:18 AM, GSX1100dreamn said:
GSX is different than a GS, isn't it?
With a GS you just screw a bolt in as tight as you can get it in, and give it a massive wack with a big hammer
-
Screw a bolt into a sparkplug hole (M14 x 1.5) to block a piston, If you'r in doubt, do it with 2 pistons.
Then carefully try to undo the bolt. If you still need a lot of force, the try another way...
-
Just don't!!
Do it right, no excuses! Valve clearence is there for a reason!
- 2
-
-
Good question, I had the same issue.
I asked the seller, he said it would / should be alright, and 7000km later I haven't had any problems.
-
Cut the spring, can use a pretty light spring as the boost pushes the valve down.
Looks like you connected it wrong too, should be connected to the vacuum points to where you synchronise the carbs / throttle bodies with, because thats the only spot you can get a vacuum, what sucks the valve open when going off throttle.
-
9 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:
Its a Dyna S, ie. the one that replaces the points and back-plate - there is no external module.
Aha, I thought every non breaker points ignition have some sort of module. The ones I bought had..
-
5 hours ago, Pegleg said:
So could you return the oil via a fitting in the sump plug? Like a banjo fitting?
As long as the turbo is above sump level.
-
2 hours ago, wombat258 said:
I have an 1100W Hahn turbo kit sump (unused) that does exactly that. I am not a fan of introducing any air into the oil pump as it can result in plain bearing failures. Would probably work with early roller bearing crank engines.
Works with a reed valve, like in a 2 stroke engine.
Apparently it works alright, I can't find any photo's. Couple of guys in The Netherlands have it like that.
-
On 7/1/2023 at 10:53 PM, Pegleg said:
Spent ages going through search function but can't find good pictures. Looking for ideas to mount the scavenge pump. Looks a bit vulnerable mounted to the sump.
There should be a way that the oil is sucked of via the oil pick up, so you don't need a scavenge pump
- 1
-
On 7/11/2023 at 10:18 PM, gorbys said:
My dyna ignition broke and I'm back to points. I can get 1-4 timed to the firing mark but then can't get 2-3 in spec, seems there's not enough adjustment. A guy on YouTube had the same problem and he said his points where to worn. So is it any truth to this? I don't have much experience with points.
Was your Dyna module suspended in rubbers, or bolted to the frame?
-
-
19 hours ago, TonyGee said:
this is what happens when you get greedy with your 6inches I'm happy with my 5.5inches
I ordered a GSXR wheel to match the front wheel, didn't know it was wider.. Looks a bit better, apparently every centimeter counts
- 1
-
I have to be creative with the frame.
I already have a plan
I was busy aligning the chain, and I noticed it has to come out a bit, almost at the end of the shaft
-
-
The 1000 head loves a bit of porting!!
-
Pretty sure the 1000 has bigger valves
-
-
If I know the angles I can first see if the tubes are bent or not, then I can cut out the damaged parts, get new pipe and bend it and weld it in.
You'll be amazed what you can do with an angle gauge, and probably a jig, but first I need the angle before I can do a proper job, or else I need to guess
-
Still need to know the angles..
-
I've had an accident with my GS1000, the frame is bend, another frame is not an option, can't find one where I live, having one send over is way too expensive..
Thinking of fixing the frame, but I'd like to know some angles before I make a decision.
I'd like to know the angle of both the top tubes, with the angle gauge on. I zero'd the gauge on the bottom tube under the engine.
When you have a good look you can see where the frame is bend.
The angle in the top tubes already would help, mine is kinked in the bend.
Thanks
-
Does it has the stock timing marks? If yes, use that.
-
On 3/6/2023 at 1:47 AM, Arttu said:
It isn't that straightforward to tell what power some parts can handle since there are multiple other factors affecting too. For example rpms stress the rods more than just power. Hard launches on prepped track are often main reason for breaking cases and so on.
But as far as I know stock GSX rods, 493 Katana rods and EFE ones, are often used on 500-600hp Funny bikes. So they really can handle some serious power. If we are talking about GSX cases I think they are still realtively reliable around 500hp. They can handle even more but at 800hp level this kind views tend to get more common.
Damn, you would almost be proud of blowing it up like that
I had to remove material to allow for the bigger sleeves, therefore the material around a couple of studs is a bit thin, I would think that the cylinder block would rip out the studs.
The hard launch I knew, sounds logic.
I blew mine up after mis shifting, and f-ing around with the ignition timing, I did accidentaly somthing right.
The amount of RPM I'm aware of too, piston speed and the weight of the pistons.
-
4 hours ago, Arttu said:
Well, the Katana rods can handle over 500hp so no wonder if they look beefier...
Wow!! I thought somewhere around 300..
Maybe I should give mine more boost then
You know what crankcases can handle?
GS1000 Timing chain tunnel leak
in Air Cooled
Posted
Gents,
My bike is in parts, I've got a lot of oil leaking all over the cylinders, the front.
I think it's the head gasket, I got new gaskets in the other day.
It's a GS1000 with 78.25mm pistons, so I need Cometic gaskets.
The stock square O-ring doesn't seem to do much.
Before I start to try all kinds of stuff (make a mess with liquid gasket) are there tips or tricks to prevent if from leaking again?
Thanks