Reinhoud
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Posts posted by Reinhoud
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On 8/18/2023 at 4:05 AM, IhmeJanneFIN said:
It was originally about 3 litres if I can remember correctly, but it has been modified multiple times after that, so current volume is unknown. But it is much bigger in size than ie. Gsxr or Blandits that I have seen. I tried to mimic the oem gsx 750 f airbox in size and shape.
My GS needed 2 x the displacement, I had to redo my plenum twice. It just didn't want to run properly, with the first one it hardly wanted to run at all..
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On 8/14/2023 at 10:14 PM, Baz1954 said:
Guys/gals I'm back with another question re my 1978 GS1000. I'm overhauling my brakes replacing master cylinder internals and I want to replace the 'O' ring under the front brake reservoir. Tried putting it in hot water to see if expansion would help remove the reservoir but no it didn't. Somewhat wary of breaking the reservoir as I cannot find any online if I do. Do not want to replace assembly with rectangular type. Any ideas?
Thanks
I think I have a whole master cylinder, you can have it for the cost of postage. if you break it
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41 minutes ago, IhmeJanneFIN said:
I saw some forum/internet post somewhere, where this thing was called "primary breather valve", but I think they didn't use 2 stroke reed valves, it had some more complex type of membrane valve
Anyhow, there is small "vacuum" or "air movement towards cylinders" inside the plenum when the engine is running at off boost situations and these valves just reroute the air stream to be shorter, so rather than pulling the air through turbo and charge piping, it is drawn much shorter distance through the reeds. So better throttle response at off boost situations, and because there is better response from the engine, there is smaller turbolag? I don't, it just works.
Atleast on my case they work very well, because before turbo starts building boost, it draws air through these reeds, as I can hear the induction sound from the reeds, but it stops as soon as there is movement on the boost needle. I still need to fabricate some sort of air filter for those reeds by the way. Without these reeds in my case atleast, it's much more sluggish from idle to around 3000-4000 rpm before the turbo starts to spool up.
Isn't your plenum too small?
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32 minutes ago, IhmeJanneFIN said:
I saw some forum/internet post somewhere, where this thing was called "primary breather valve", but I think they didn't use 2 stroke reed valves, it had some more complex type of membrane valve
Anyhow, there is small "vacuum" or "air movement towards cylinders" inside the plenum when the engine is running at off boost situations and these valves just reroute the air stream to be shorter, so rather than pulling the air through turbo and charge piping, it is drawn much shorter distance through the reeds. So better throttle response at off boost situations, and because there is better response from the engine, there is smaller turbolag? I don't, it just works.
Atleast on my case they work very well, because before turbo starts building boost, it draws air through these reeds, as I can hear the induction sound from the reeds, but it stops as soon as there is movement on the boost needle. I still need to fabricate some sort of air filter for those reeds by the way. Without these reeds in my case atleast, it's much more sluggish from idle to around 3000-4000 rpm before the turbo starts to spool up.
Thanks for your explaination!
I'm about to make a new plenum, see if I can think of something. The reed valves is easy, but the air filter is going to be a challenge.
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2 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:
Tests on NA ram pipes show that any radius more than 90 - 100 degrees perpendicular to airflow produces little increases. As regards pipe opening to internal plenum face - a minimum of 10mm is recommended - more is better and closer to the outlet wall is maybe best position. If you want steel ram pipes you could use Weber DCOE pipes 17mm is their shortest I think, and dia's of 40, 45, 48 & 50.
I'm going to make some myself, the tubes on the plenum to the carbs are a bit smaller. Now I can make it with the exact dimensions as the carburetors.
I ordered something to cut a radius with.
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5 hours ago, Joseph said:
Something like this worth using ?
I need steel, and they need to be short.
I already have an idea and ordered a cutter to make a radius..
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Thanks.
I already thought they shouldn't be to close to back wall, no clue how much.
For the rest I'm clueless.
But it should be noticeble?
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14 hours ago, Arttu said:
Yes they do. Basically the same than on N/A engine. In practice they aren't that critical on boosted engine since the effect is relatively small compared to boost. But if you want to build an efficient engine they are definitely one of the things to keep in mind.
Thanks!
I saw it somewhere, and that got me curious..
Do you have an idea about dimensions? Or how/ where I can find it?
Bike is in parts at the moment, so I can f around with it.
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On 8/14/2023 at 1:16 AM, Fergie1050 said:
Check the oil seal on the revcounter drive. I had it leak on mine and oil ran down the centre of the engine.
I don't have the tacho drive in anymore
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On 8/14/2023 at 7:09 AM, fab said:
I didn't say they were on the ends?
Oh, didn't read that properly..
Inner headbolt O-rings?
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Just curious..
I know what velocity stacks should do on carburetors, but do velocity stacks anything in a plenum of a turbo charged engine?
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On 8/13/2023 at 3:44 PM, IhmeJanneFIN said:
Found one pic, which I could crop so one of the reeds is visible. Cannot find better pics from my current phone, as have changed phone, so they are at the old phone and on my laptop.
Ps. Plenum is made out of mild steel as I don't have ac/dc tig yet
So, it just sucks air from outside into the plenum?
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3 minutes ago, IhmeJanneFIN said:
Yeah, I run two reed valves from a 2 stroke moped on my plenum design. Might be ok with just one as they are quite big, but the location kind of asked for two for the sake of more even airfow.
On my first engine, which was stock 750 short stroke, it started to build boost around 1000 rpm earlier with the reeds and also felt considerable more happy to respond to throttle inputs on off boost situations.
As that engine was stock and with stock valvetiming it "came alive" at 7000 rpm, but the turbo started to build boost around 5000 rpm without reeds, and around 4000 rpm with the reeds.
My current 988cc Frankenstein starts boosting around 3000 rpm with the same turbo. We'll see how it will behave with the reeds on 1216cc and different turbo, once I get to build it.
Interesting..
Do you have a diagram or photo's of this set up?
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3 hours ago, fab said:
I would check the 2 inner head bolt Orings first.
It's in the center, not at the ends.
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9 hours ago, peter1127 said:
Well, shifts are not really an issue unless looking for the last tenth on the track. Its about normal driving on the road: closing the throttle before the corner,and opening it at the apex. Then there is a second of nothing followed by a power surge. I would like for that to be smoother, hence I'm looking for options like this anti lag valve.
In that case I don't think a lag valve will do anything, to much time in between.
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10 hours ago, MrKaizer said:
I didn't write this clearly, sorry.
I'll definitely do the valve clearances before I ride any more! But I'm hoping I won't have to do a full head rebuild, valve seats and all, yet.
I think I didn't read properly.. Sorry..
In theory you're right, but experience tells me it's not always like that.
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On 7/23/2023 at 7:24 PM, thomascingelis said:
Gsxr1100 slabside
Garret power 224.7bhp at wheel
Is it necessary have oil catcher coming from cases
If oil comes out of the breather, yes!
If not, no.
That simple.
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If this is an issue, wouldn't a quick shifter be an easier / better solution?
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On 8/11/2023 at 5:49 PM, peter1127 said:
hi guys, any ideas/opinions on a anti lag valve like this? It uses excess air when closing the throttle to flow into the headers, and in combination with retarded ignition this should keep the turbo running. Reviews/video's not really conclusive and none for bikes. If it works it would be nice, but its a bitch to get it installed on a bike. Its for a road bike, for dragracing there is no point.
https://www.turbosmart.com/anti-lag-valves/
I know that the Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution has this system, Subaru WRX STI too if I'm correct..
In theorie it works, what it actuallydoes I don't know.
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Gents,
My bike is in parts, I've got a lot of oil leaking all over the cylinders, the front.
I think it's the head gasket, I got new gaskets in the other day.
It's a GS1000 with 78.25mm pistons, so I need Cometic gaskets.
The stock square O-ring doesn't seem to do much.
Before I start to try all kinds of stuff (make a mess with liquid gasket) are there tips or tricks to prevent if from leaking again?
Thanks
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On 8/9/2023 at 9:18 AM, GSX1100dreamn said:
There are two holes for a special tool to hold the rotor, I made a tool to fit.
And bought a rotor puller,
Hope this helps.
Cheers Andrew.
GSX is different than a GS, isn't it?
With a GS you just screw a bolt in as tight as you can get it in, and give it a massive wack with a big hammer
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Screw a bolt into a sparkplug hole (M14 x 1.5) to block a piston, If you'r in doubt, do it with 2 pistons.
Then carefully try to undo the bolt. If you still need a lot of force, the try another way...
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Just don't!!
Do it right, no excuses! Valve clearence is there for a reason!
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On 7/27/2023 at 1:09 AM, Kentuckyzuki said:
I am looking to purchase a wider rim for my gs1000 thanks in advance
5.5'' , but with this you need an offset sprocket, anything wider you need to modify the frame
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Fuel pressure guage.
in Forced Induction
Posted
https://www.Eblag.com.au/itm/173922722900?hash=item287e9a2454:g:1f8AAOSw6Otixo8e&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4Bfv6DwIQu%2BigyFZUwMOhbnNT3MALh9XChsQi6D3yAm0M6FDPpOKTiIYSqMayihEZ114e6j57YTWt6ZRt3zsski2oBYRh18E42na6z1muV5DlwzYiAD3Vk4aMGgupkHC3Y2ARSkt0Jzocv4fIHeE9zdug5QFK28Wnc3VWSX8hdEk3v0UkbVBt6%2B1tGTerot86%2FkNK1E%2Bwcph%2BTw98tOMgqWwXQ4JOAETXMNNQR3hQ1PnH865Hqr6uWLmOmgUlD5FCM2K%2BITdfQYqsqyAzXkj1iPR6l6A6xH%2F1qCVEuUb5idl|tkp%3ABFBMvMi8nsJi