Reinhoud
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Posts posted by Reinhoud
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On 24/08/2017 at 3:35 AM, Rene EFE said:
Same as earlier GSX750 so that I can use these? Breaking a bike atm, and need to figure out what to keep.
What to keep?
Everything for a while.... From experience, you find a purpose for things straight after you sold it...
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I've been busy with the oil pump...
The GS has hardly any oil pressure, when the engine is cold you should be able to get about 15psi when you rev it.
When the engine is on temperature your glad when you get 2 psi.
I made an oil pump what was 14mm wider as the stock one, and even with that the pressure hardly got any higher.
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I have a Bandit 1200 swingarm in my GS1000, if it fits in that, it should fit in an EFE, shouldn't it? That can hold a 180 tyre.
Plus, that solid looking Bandit 1200 swingarm looks good.
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Because the pump is injecting fuel into your cylinders, it gives extra fuel, therefore you can't properly adjust your carbies with the pump enabled.
An O2 sensor is a bit of an investment, but you won't regret it. And if you don't want to use it anymore, you sell it.
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First thing you do is disable the acceleration pump, than you stick an O2 sensor in your exhaust, and read on an A/F gauge what your A/F is, than you see where and how much your mixture is of..
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In The Netherlands mopeds have, by law, no more than 50cc ans a carburetor not bigger than 12mm and a stock exhaust, not going any faster than 40km/h.... ( I think a maximum of 0.5 kW)
Reality was more like, put a 70cc big bore on it with a 16 / 20 or bigger mm carburetor on it, aftermarket exhaust on it.
Even better was to get a 80 or 125cc engine from Germany ( the laws were different there), ten your moped would go somewhere in between 80 to 130km/h....
Those good ol' days...
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19 hours ago, Dezza said:
I like little dirt bikes - pic please
Many on this site will not be interested unless you have fitted a GSX or GSXR 1100 engine in it though
They're not little, they have only 50cc...
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A Suzuki TS50 is a moped... At least, in The Netherlands it is... I've riden a couple back in the days, they go alright with a 70cc big bore on it, when you're 16/17 y.o.
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I've got a Dyno 2000 ignition on my GS1000, the only reason I bought it is because it's adjustable.
If you don't have a good reason for using it, I would use the stock ignition...
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Nice bike! Put a GT750 engine in it.
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On 5/26/2017 at 11:04 AM, Gixer1460 said:
I disagree with the 1st point - pushing an incorrect master cylinder piston 1/2" or 1" won't make the clutch springs any easier to compress! To do that, the master cylinder bore requires changing....... that will mean more or less fluid transfer. Then you correct the lever ratio more or less to move sufficient fluid @ increased pressure to push on the springs, so giving a lighter feel - the clutch cover will still only move the same amount.
I believe the OP set-up will require a smaller master cyl. bore to increase line pressure and a lever with a greater stroke to move the reduced fluid capacity. The lever is the hardest thing as unless its like the 'high end - multiple adjustables' like the one above, most have a fixed lever ratio to suit the 'average' rider.
You're not wrong! But you make it more complicated than it is. That's probably not the right way to say it, you can get there "in a different way".
I hope you get what I mean.
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17 hours ago, Reinhoud said:
Something didn't go as planned....
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I did some calculating when I did my conversion, I have duty spring and I put them in with spacers, real tight,went real heavy!!
So, I bought a master cylinder from a Bandit 1250 and a slave from a Bandit 1200, did some calculations, according to my calculations the clutch should go half as heavy...
I also calculated how heavy the clutch would/should go when cable operated, the only thing I didn't know how to calculate, of was sure of if it would matter is the from rotating to linear conversion.
The clutch went lighter indeed, by feel it could indeed be about half of before.
So, I ended up in a discussion with someone, and then you get that moment, I just have to know, not to prove you're right, but just to know how it goes, the physics of it..
So, back into the shed with my calculator ruler and vernier.
Turns out that the pressure plate came out only 3mm when hydraulic, instead of the over 6 mm when cable operated.
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On 5/26/2017 at 11:04 AM, Gixer1460 said:
I disagree with the 1st point - pushing an incorrect master cylinder piston 1/2" or 1" won't make the clutch springs any easier to compress! To do that, the master cylinder bore requires changing....... that will mean more or less fluid transfer. Then you correct the lever ratio more or less to move sufficient fluid @ increased pressure to push on the springs, so giving a lighter feel - the clutch cover will still only move the same amount.
I believe the OP set-up will require a smaller master cyl. bore to increase line pressure and a lever with a greater stroke to move the reduced fluid capacity. The lever is the hardest thing as unless its like the 'high end - multiple adjustables' like the one above, most have a fixed lever ratio to suit the 'average' rider.
Read again what you wrote, you write down what I said, if you change the diameter of the cylinders, you also change the travel.
It's all about the ratio of travel travel between lever on handle bars and travel of the clutch pressure plate, in what way you change the travel doesn't matter.
I've had a discussion regarding this one time, both stubborn, both had our own way, so I started calculating, in the end we both were right.
The difference was that we had a different way to get to the end result.
When TS wants his clutch to go lighter, he has to make sure his pressure plate travels less far, if he does that by putting a longer lever on the control on the clutch cover, or different size master or slave cylinder doesn't matter.
If you don't believe, just start calculating.
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18 hours ago, Dezza said:
Maybe it's a language thing but without any detail your post reads as condescending
Why? I give details, I tell why. Why is my post condescending, and the post I replied to not?
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On 5/25/2017 at 1:12 AM, Gixer1460 said:
How can it be the same lever? One is cable, one is hydraulic! The master / slave ratio is the determinant
You need to change the travel, if you keep that the same, it won't go any lighter.
When you make the clutch pressure plate travel less far, your clutch will go lighter, that's what I mean.
And the travel is related to the diameter of the master and the slave cylinder.
You can calculate is through the diameters of both cylinders, but calculating via travel goes easier and quicker and the results are the same.
So again, if your pressure plate has the same amount of travels as before, it won't go any easier.
I converted my clutch to hydraulic, I did my homework.
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It's not lighter because you have the same lever, so it still makes the same stroke.
I copied one from a Bandit, and build that on my GS1000, and that works lighter.
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when I had a 1085 big bore high comp on my one, the starter was struggling too...
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can't you put new carbon brushes in it?
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On 16/05/2017 at 10:34 PM, Gixer1460 said:
Surprised your ignition is still functional! Dyna Orange coils are 1.5 ohm each so they are wired in series i'm guessing - lower volts but 3.0 ohm total resistance?
Twin spark. You're on the money, wired in series.
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On 5/16/2017 at 5:30 AM, Gixer1460 said:
Problem with K&N's or similar filters is non compatibility with Ram pipes - the foamies are about the only thing that will stretch over!
Oh, I thought he just wanted filters what fit straight on the carbies..
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ask Buzz from Dynoman Performance in the US, he has a cheaper version of the K&N, just as good, half the money
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i've got 4 coils on my GS1000, the orange/brown ones, as far as I know they're the same size as the green ones.
Mine fittet on the stock brackets. The other 2 I made behind the battery.
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On 5/10/2017 at 6:03 AM, Gixer1460 said:
Its horses for courses! A turbo has relatively long, gentle spool with a big rush - ideal for road use. Racing turbo's requires being an animal on the throttle to build boost before launch or race is over before turbo spools. Simple nitrous is an instant whack - press button and power goes from whatever to whatever + 60hp virtually instantly - nitrous on a dyno is a larf as it'll shock the wheel into wheelspin. Racing nitrous is still a hit - even the progressives as you maybe starting with only 25% and ramping to 100% in 2 seconds but that could be 60hp upto 240hp increase in 2 seconds - its a rush!
Turbo's are acknowledged as being 'softer' on an engine but over an 1/8th mile very little will beat a sorted nitrous bike.
Ah, thanks.
I thought it was something like that, but wasn't sure..
GS1000 bhp when standard ?
in Air Cooled
Posted
Mine had 81 at the wheel with a worked head and an after market exhaust, no high performance.