Reinhoud
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Posts posted by Reinhoud
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Nice!
Uhm, Calling a bike from 1985 a dinosaur? What will you call my GS1000 from 1979?
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On 10/15/2016 at 2:38 AM, Gixer1460 said:
Always wary about specifying EFI fuel pumps for use with carbs. EFI pressure is relatively constant over the injectors, flow is largely unimportant as it is usually in excess but choking down an efi pump a) over heats the fuel and b) reduces its flow - to carb float valve tolerable levels, so requiring an oversize tank return line. RR Regs are spawn of satan IMO - may be ok for a mildly hopped up NA situation but never good with a turbo and certainly not with turbo and carbs! Carbs need to have low pressure, high flow supply that will track boost exactly to remain constant - increasing FP exponentially with no regard to boost requirement leads to blown engines - seen it with Busa's done on the cheap.
Different pipe route - I like it, neat and tucked in. Stainless? won't shed heat easily so air could get a bit toasty!
-Flow is important. (But you say that later on)
-You don't choke the fuel pump more, in a car the pump is choked to about 2.5 to 3 bar, on a bike the pump is choked to about 1 to 1.5 bar, depending on boost level, so why would fuel temp go up?
-If you don't like RRRegs, how then adapt the pressure to wanted levels?
That's what I mean I don't understand..
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On 10/15/2016 at 9:53 AM, Gixer1460 said:
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Oops, misunderstood you..
I think, if I remember correctly, the pressure plate comes out about 2mm when you pull the lever. (I built a clutch control from a Bandit on my GS1000)
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20 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:
Always wary about specifying EFI fuel pumps for use with carbs. EFI pressure is relatively constant over the injectors, flow is largely unimportant as it is usually in excess but choking down an efi pump a) over heats the fuel and b) reduces its flow - to carb float valve tolerable levels, so requiring an oversize tank return line. RR Regs are spawn of satan IMO - may be ok for a mildly hopped up NA situation but never good with a turbo and certainly not with turbo and carbs! Carbs need to have low pressure, high flow supply that will track boost exactly to remain constant - increasing FP exponentially with no regard to boost requirement leads to blown engines - seen it with Busa's done on the cheap.
Different pipe route - I like it, neat and tucked in. Stainless? won't shed heat easily so air could get a bit toasty!
I might be misunderstanding you, but a lot what you wrote down doesn't make sense to me..
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No clue what kind of engine (Bandit 1200?), but does it has a hydraulic controlled clutch? If yes, it doesn't have any clearance..
If it's a Bandit 1200 it has a hydraulic controlled clutch, as far as my information goes, then it hasn't got any clearance.
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A fuel pump from a car what produces over about 200hp should be fine, for a fuel pressure regulator you need a Rising Rate Fuel pressure regulator (RRFPR), Maplpassi has good ones.
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Before putting carbs back on, put fuel line on carbies, hold them up side down, and blow with your mouth into the fuel line. You should have no leak.
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Ah, pod filters! That makes it a lot different. Start with about 30/35% bigger jets, and then see where you're at.
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You can't see on the spark plugs if an engine is tuned right, a lot of people see you can, but my experience is not. I've ridden quite a while with a A/F gauge.
The only proper way to see if it's tuned right is to use an A/F gauge.
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I also thought that APE is Tsubaki
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This morning I spent some time behind my little lathe, just some improvements on the bottom plate.
The shaft driven by the extended shaft had too much clearance, also the bush in the oil pump was separate from the bush in the "tower", therefor it didn't turn smooth the first time I put all together and I had to make it all go smooth, because off that it got too much clearance, not a lot, but enough to spent some time on it.
Also I had to make a spacer to get the gear at the right height, I didn't like that either, therefor I made the top bush a little bit longer so I can leave the spacer.
So, bashed the old bushes out, turn new bushes, and tap those back in, all fits and works perfect, I'm happy with it, less parts, less clearance, better alignment, and it turns more smooth.
Next thing is to improve the oil pressure regulator, it works, but it leaks, and I think/hope it can work better, better adjustable.
I also should send out my tax return papers so I can order the con rods..
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I'm not saying they're good or worn! Just reporting the clearances of the bearings on my crank.
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so an intercooler is something I should look into..
See if I can find something small enough.
Thanks guys
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don't know yet, I want a smaller turbo as what I had, probably around 1 bar of boost.
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Just checked the bearings on the crank I have laying around, they have between 0.01 and 0.02 mm clearance.
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Gents,
Before my engine blew up I didn't have an intercooler on my bike.
Anyone here who has experience with having and not having an intercooler on their bike?
Now I have to rebuilt it, I'm thinking of building on my bike, although I hardly have any room for it.
Mostly curious how much difference having an intercooler is.
Thanks.
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To measure, you can put the crank in a lathe, or something else to hold it, and then with put a dial indicator on the bearing and move it.
I'll have a look with my crank, I've got 2 floating around.
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If it hydraulic locked the conrods would have been bent.
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Is it all stock? I have the impression it isn't..
I built a monoshock in my GS1000, a FEW centimeters difference in length / distance on the pivot points can make a hell of a lot difference, you probably have to experiment.
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Side ways, yes! Radial, a little, about a few hundreds of a mm. Hopefully someone here knows a more accurate number.
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I don't know much about electrics, I do know those alternators don't crank out much, not sure if they crank out enough to feed an extra fuel pump and scavenge pump.. I'm sure there is someone else who knows a lot more about that stuff as me.
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Also, you have to have a fuel pump running, and then an oil pump, can the alternator handle that?
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17 hours ago, Joebloggs said:
PJ1 case paint goes on very nicely, almost looks factory finish.
I painted an old Kawasaki motor with it a few moons ago and was very impressed although recently a friend used it and it didn't last two min's, not sure if the formulae has been changed or if it was down to preparation but if the latter I'd recommend trying it.
What I did myself with VHT didn't last long either, I did it according to the instructions, it stays on, but when you rub it it comes off.
I think I leave it like it is..
TD04-13t from an Impreza
in Forced Induction
Posted
I had a TD05 16G from an EVO III, full torque at 5000rpm.
Not what you asked for, but may be you can use it as a reference what a TD05 would do.