Reinhoud
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Posts posted by Reinhoud
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Impressive!
What's the max diameter sleeves / pistons in a stock cylinder block off that engine?
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Jetting has nothing to do with opinions, every bike is different, measuring is the way to go, use an Air / Fuel ratio meter for this (O2 sensor with gauge).
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Ah thanks, it was VHT paint I used.
Engine is in parts, so that makes it easier.
I'll see what I do..
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Kill switch is on?
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Hi,
The crank cases of my GS1000 don't look that flash anymore (probably never did) after 37 years..
Now I see a lot of people who spray paint their engine, but for how long does that look good?
I spray painted the rocker cover of my engine, but the paint didn't stick very well, looked like crap after a few weeks.
What are the experiences with you guys regarding painting an engine?
Thanks!
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GSX1100 can also be 34mm.
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The tapers must be different, I don't think you fix it just like that.
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Electrolysis is the best way to get rust out of a tank, takes quite long, but works absolutely perfect!
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1371cc
in Oil Cooled
Are the studs that far apart, and is there that much material around the crankcase where the liners go in, that you can put such big cylinders on on those engines?
My GS1000 has 8.25mm bigger pistons, and that's absolutely the max.
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1371cc
in Oil Cooled
Wrap a garden hose around the block and connect that to the cooling system.
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17 hours ago, Arttu said:
Normal procedure goes pretty much like Slingy explained. So first thing is to change the pump gears to 750 ones to get about 30% more oil flow. As far as I know there aren't any other gear options commercially available. This flow increase alone doesn't help pressure much. With cool oil it may increase pressure significantly but once oil is in normal operating temp pressure usually drops below 0.5 bar which is way too little for plain bearing turbos (except Rajays).
So next step is to add some restriction to the main oil supply route from the filter and take oil to the turbo before restriction. When done right this will give about 2-4 bar for the turbo and still enough oil for rest of the engine. Easiest way to do this is make a take-off plug in place of the oil pressure light switch. In practice this seem to work well enough but there are still some drawbacks. Oil pressure will be low at low rpm and pressure will vary quite lot depending on oil viscosity and temp. A bit more sophisticated solution would be some kind spring loaded relief valve in place of the restrictor. That should guarantee pretty constant pressure for turbo. Unfortunately making such system would be a bit more complicated.
Here are a couple of pics how I did this take-off years ago.
I know the pressure varies a lot, I've done a lot of experimenting. I do have a spring loaded pressure regulator in my system.
If you raise the pressure, is the amount off oil still sufficient?
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18 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:
Nice but not really necessary. The std pump system can be pushed to 30psi which is ok for a plain bearing turbo and if you use a BB turbo you don't need increased pressure anyway. Dino's should have the turbo behind the cylinders then gravity drain is golden - problems sorted LOL!
@ Reinhoud - seriously? They are so oldskool before oldskool was cool! Originally designed to pressurise aircraft cabins back un the 50/60's. They are seriously scarce in A1 condition now and spares are very limited, quite narrow and the lower oil pressure came from the single bearing core so they tend to 'wobble' a bit more. Unless you've got one - I wouldn't go looking for one.
I never heard of those turbochargers, I'm not looking for one, my system works perfect! Just curious how others solved the problem.
How do you raise the pressure to 30psi? That with an engine at operating temperature I assume?
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Duckndive, can you give me more info regarding the Rajay turbocharger, please? I've never heard off those, not much info on the net.
They need less oil as normal turbo chargers?
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I had a oil pressure gauge on my bike, when idling the pressure is not even 2 psi, when you give it some revs it gets may be to 10 psi..
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20 hours ago, Maggotbreath said:
Nothing to add but that's awesome!!!! No, shit, wait, I need more details, You sir are a GENIUS!!!!
Haha, what would you like to know?
I'll open a topic soon, scavenge pump is on the crank case again, now the sprockets and support needs to be built in, hopefully that fits straight away..
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Thanks.
I already have another ratio, I also had a pump (5mm wider) built in from a GSX750 with normal bearings, but even with that the pressure dropped to very low, but higher then with stock pump.
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Hi,
I was wondering how the turbo builders solved the problem with the low oil pressure on the engines with a roller bearing crank.
Mostly just out of curiosity, and may be I can get an idea for my own bike.
I've build 2 oil pumps on my GS1000 engine, one scavenge and one to feed the turbo charger, both driven by the stock oil pump from which I extended the shaft.
A con rod snapped off and ruined the crankcase, so now I'm busy trying to build everything over on another set off crankcases, but castings are never the same, so it's a little bit of a challenge..
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Don't go for cheap, usually the quality is not good! I speak from experience.
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Usually I hate it when people reply who know nothing about it, but no one else has replied yet...
I don't know, but the US is quite strict with emissions and stuff, usually because off that a lot of imported vehicles in the US have less power as other countries, may be that has something to do with it?
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That's why I asked.
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Weight distribution, is that measured with or without rider?
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Fiber plates within specs is no guarantee for not slipping!
Did you also use the shims under the springs to raise the spring load?
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Ok, I also made a wider oil pump in the engine, one from a GSX750 with plain bearings, when the engine was cold the oil pressure was high enough, as soon as the oil came at operating temperature the pressure dropped till only a little bit above the pressure with the stock pump.
On another forum there was a guy who turbo'd a GS850, he used an electric pump. I was thinking off that too, but I wasn't sure if my alternator could feed a fuel and an oil pump together. I did upgrade the alternator.
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GS1000 Turbo, attempt no 2
in Forced Induction
Posted
Gents,
A few years back I started to build a turbo charger on my already rebuild GS1000.
A had a lot of bad luck, but in the end I had it going.... and then I got some more bad luck..
I had the bike on the dyno and it cranked out only 150hp on the rear wheel, still 60hp more as without turbo.
Main reason to put it on the dyno was to see how the carbies were adjusted, bike was running way to lean!
After fiddling around with the carbies and advancing the ignition the bike came back to life, it was even faster as the first time I had it going, it lifted it's front wheel in 3rd while not even on boost. It had never done that before, hence, this bike weighs at least 260kgs.
Same day/night (friday the 13th - seriously) I took it for a test ride at the local industrial area, at about 180km/h I wanted to shift into 4th gear and I miss shifted, I heard a bang and then RRRRRRRRRR, and it lost power..... Then, a lot of words you never hear in the bible..
Con rod gave up, destroyed the crank case, and one piston, valve shim came out what destroyed the rocker cover, long story short, I felt like crying... ;) .
Was in doubt for quite a while if I wanted to rebuild it with or without turbo, decided to rebuild it with turbo, or else it would be a waste of my previous efforts, and that turbo power, it's addictive, but the turbo riders know that.
GS1000 has a roller bearing crank, means these engines have hardly any oil pressure, about 6 psi at a lot of revs, not enough for a turbo charger, I have been playing around with it, oil pump gears from a GS750 in it, restrictor in the feed line to the gearbox didn't help much, I even build a 5mm wider pump from a GSX750 with plain bearings in the crank case, but even that raised the oil pressure not high enough, then I decided to put some effort in it (and lots, and lots of time)...
At that time I worked at a place with a lathe and a milling machine, so I build a new bottom plate with a turbo feed pump incl. oil pressure regulator, and a scavenge pump on the side of the crank case.
To my surprise this worked absolutely perfect, of all the trouble I had with my bike, all the handy work I did myself worked ok.
So after the crank case got destroyed I had to build everything over to the other set off crankcases I have, there was quite some difference in the 2 sets of crankcases, but now I have the 2nd set finished.
- The GS has a 1245cc big bore kit (78,25mm) with JE pistons, CR 8:1, 34mm GSX1100 carbies.
- I extended the drive shaft of the oil pump to the other side of the cranck case, milled material from the outside of the crank case, bolted a home made scavenge pump on it.
- I mounted a 90 degree sprocket on the drive shaft, and the rest you can see in the photo's.
- On the sprocket side of the drive shaft I cut about 4mm of thread and screwed a nut on and welded the nut on the shaft, reason being, while I was busy fitting it in I tapped the shaft, and the clip fell of straight away... Then I got scared that clip falling off while engine was running (what didn't happen before) and causing havoc, and decided to play it save.
Plan is to rebuild a stock crank with 493 Katana rods, billet clutch basket and reinforced backing plate and straight cut gears, this is all very expensive, but I can't afford another time it goes wrong. With all that it should be able to handle at least 300hp. I'm not aiming to get that kind off power, if I get it at the same level as when it f*cked up I'm happy, main goal is to keep it in one piece.
I've got a bad paid job, and I'm busy fixing up my Land Rover (Discovery V8), so it's going to take some time before it's going again.
I'll keep you informed.
Bottom plate needs to be cleaned, and I want to spend some time on the oil pressure regulator, crank up the pressure a little.
note; seat isn't finished yet
Also a photo included of the &750.000 machine I milled the side of the crank case off