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Reinhoud

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Posts posted by Reinhoud

    GS1000 oil pump

    in Air Cooled

    Posted · Edited by Reinhoud

    Anyone who know what the thickness/width is of the gears of a GS1000 pump?

     

    I ordered a pump, but this pump is 10mm wide, the one I have is 14mm wide..

    Piston clearence

    in Forced Induction

    Posted

    Gents,

     

    Anyone knows what an appropiate piston - cylinder clearence would be? (JE pistons)

    I measure 78.12 on the piston, and 78.26 in the bore..

    That should be more than enough, I think, may be even too much? But I have marks in the  cylinders, and that got me thinking..

     

    Bike only did about 3000kms on these cylinders, but during adjusting the carbies she has been running too lean for a while.

    It's a GS1000

     

    So, what would be good?

     

    Thanks

     

     

    Wrist pins

    in Air Cooled

    Posted

    Gents,

     

    In my collection of "junk" I have 2 different sort of wrist pins, thick wall (3.5mm) and a thinner wall (2.5mm) thickness. 

    I'm going to order new wrist pins in the near future, and I want the ones with the thicker wall thickness (3.5) for a GS1000. (18mm)

    Anyone knows which model uses the 3.5mm wrist pins?

     

    Thanks

    GS1000 oil pump

    in Air Cooled

    Posted

    30 minutes ago, BigT said:

    Just fit an oil pressure gauge in that big port on the right side of the motor, below and behind the barrels. Should have a chrome bolt in it

    I already have

    Cutting silicone hosing to length

    in Forced Induction

    Posted

    On 7/6/2019 at 9:11 AM, Maggotbreath said:

    Nice idea with the lathe, will try that next time. 

    I rough cut mine then jubilee clamped them onto a solid blank, stationary disk sander to finish. Slow and straight  :banana:

    Piece of pipe in the lathe, clamp it and 3 seconds with the parting tool and it's cut nice and perfectly straight..

    GS1000 Turbo, attempt no 2

    in Forced Induction

    Posted

    Have done a bit again.

     

    Made a spacer for under the cylinders, put the turbine housing from the turbo in the right position, and modified the up pipe so it fits on the new turbo.

    I orderer pistons at JE, they're engineerd and paid for, so hopefully they're here in a month.

    Also ordered the last bearing for the crank, and a couple of seals, so the engine can be put together shortly.

     

     

    up pipe.jpg

    • Like 7

    GS1000 oil pump

    in Air Cooled

    Posted · Edited by Reinhoud

    2 hours ago, BigT said:

    Why do you need a new pump?

    I've never heard of one wearing out. 

    With the 8V oil pressure being so low, it's like the bike with run with minimal flow

    Because it's 40y.o. no clue how many kms it has done, and it looks quite used. I'm building a turbo on the bike so I want a good pump, better save than sorry.

     

    I always thought that oil pumps hardly wear, but my Range Rover did had an oil pump what didn't work properly, but did seemed to be in reasonable condition that mostly made me think..

    Cutting silicone hosing to length

    in Forced Induction

    Posted

    Gents, how do you cut the blue/black silicone hose to length? Those hoses what connect the up pipe tp the turbo and plenum.

     

    I used to put a piece of pipe in a lathe, put the hose on the pipe, clamp the hose and use a parting tool to cut it.

    But I don't have a parting tool available at the moment (to cheap to buy one for now ;) ), therefore I was curious if there are other ways to do it neatly, cutting it of is easy, doing it in a neat way is the challenge..

     

    Thanks

    hydraulic conversion

    in Air Cooled

    Posted

    1 hour ago, Dezza said:

    After much deliberation I think gs7-11 is right here. If the clutch action is made easier to pull by changing the leverage ratio, then the clutch will disengage less for a given 'pull' so drag problems can occur. My hydraulic conversion must have had the same ratio as stock so it felt exactly the same as when it had a cable. Having a lighter pull and then it could get clutch drag so the best way forward is to first go with optimal lever, perch, cable and actuation mechanism by making sure all parts are in good condition, correctly lubricated and corrected routed. And ditch the 'performance' springs unless absolutely necessary (try 3 first rather than all 6) as this is a good way to having a clutch that feels like it should be on some sort of WW2 tank transporter rather than on a bike.

    When I converted mine to hydraulic I did some calculations, it's as simple as the ratio in travel of the pressure plate in the clutch and the lever on the handle bars..

    Big advantage of hydraulic is that cable routing is almost non important, and that was also a bit of a problem with my bike.

    • Like 1
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