Reinhoud
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Posts posted by Reinhoud
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On 3/3/2019 at 11:05 AM, bomberone said:
Kat 1000 had 32mm carbs, think the gs1000 were smaller, 28mm i think?
Even smaller, 26 or 27mm
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IMO whatever rear end, when you park your rear wheel against a wall, the rear end shouldn't be touching the wall, and the exhaust shouldn't be longer than as where the rear axle is.. ;)
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So... Got myself another crankshaft....
After pressing it together I had the same problem, only the runout wasn't as bad as the previous crank...
That means the mistake must be me
Did some measuring, turned out pressing it together didn't go as straight as I hoped for.
A little bit on an angle causes the runout, now all is within 0.03mm.
Problem solved.
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13 hours ago, Ibbo said:
I used a bit of straight bar, 5mm x 25 mm ish. Laser seems worth a spin though to check.
The bike rides straight enough, and chains can run quute a bit out of line.
Steel bar isn't always straight, you have to check that before use..
My bikes ride was alright, but the chain didn't run straight, not sure how important that is, and what the tolerances are, but if you can get it straight, I would do it..
Thing is, with a long piece of bar on the sprocket it's easy to misagline, not saying it will, but with some length on it you don't need much to go out of line..
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21 hours ago, CockneyRick said:
Haha Should have known better. Timber warps! I used a box section steel rod clamped to front sprocket & line up to the rear.
And also if the "rear sprocket" is on at an angle, what you really mean is the "Wheel" is not properly aligned.
Highly unlikely the sprocket is on at an angle, unless you really shouldn't be let near tools
I'm not even going to comment on this...
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https://www.Eblag.com.au/itm/Adly-Herchee-Canyon-320-25-Zoll-D-CAT-Dot-Laser-Chain-Alignment-Tool/302687401901?hash=item46799337ad:g:2u4AAOSwsGlavR~k:rk:44:pf:0
Not sure if you and how you aligned your sprockets, but something like this is the only way to measure propperly, you put this on the front sprocket, because your rear sprocket can go on an angle and that screws up your alignment.
When I did mine I did it with strings and long pieces of timber, thought I did a good job, till I changed the rear fork bearings and deceided to have a check with that laser thingy, turned out it was out by over 5mm
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5 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:
Nitrous engines are incredibly detonation prone, they build heat extremely quickly and pound the hell out of bearings. Turbos are big softies in comparison!
Aha, thanks! I did know that nitrous engines blow up easy, but I thought that that was because it's harder to get the A/F ratio right.
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13 minutes ago, Gixer1460 said:
Std rods are critical after 250hp in a Nitrous motor, and pushing the limit around 300hp in a turbo - that's with a non det. prone tune.
Busa rods may be a little stronger but Carillo's (or any H beam rod) are sooooo much more resilient, it pays to use them rather than find the limits with lesser items.
If it was me - H beam rods anytime over 240-250+ hp! Build a bullet proof bottom end and you can fit ANYTHING to the top end!
How come there's a difference in power handling between turbo and nitrous?
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This happens when a con-rod gives up....
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I think that's the crank what came out of my bike, but not sure, I had another engine laying around, could be from that engine too..
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This is fixed, and this is out of spec, that's the issue.
The manual says 0.1mm max run-out, sometimes this has 0.15mm run-out, but 0.28mm I haven't seen before..
Anyone have seen it before being this far out?
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Look, this is adjustable, and is within spec.
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3 hours ago, Screwriverracing said:
And when you put the washers back on, slide them on a screwdriver then put the end of the screwdriver on the stud and drop the washer down, saves dropping the odd one down the cam chain tunnel.
Cheers SRR
And heat the washers up till they're red hot, so the copper gets soft again.
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I don't think it's a bearing thing..
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Gents,
I'm busy building up a GS1000 crankshaft, stronger con-rods.
According to the specs the runout should be 0.1mm max.
The sideway runout I've got to 0.04mm accurate, but the up and down (factory) runout is 0.28mm.
This far out of spec, does anyone had this seen before? I did mark all the parts, but even if I hadn't, it shouldn't be out this far..
Thanks
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9 hours ago, wraith said:
Well, that's answers a question i asked about if the Brembo stuff is any better than the Suzuki OEM stuff
As to the rear brakes bit, apart from being a bit smaller and lighter the gsxr/bandit/rf etc caliper are all still twin opposing position as the 1980 gs/gsx ones, if it was me and if you're not swiping the rear wheel etc just put HH pads in
but if you're swoping the rear wheel to a more modern one in the standard swing arm and need a one top caliper to go with the wheel any of the gsxf ones will work very well.
Brembo also has to obey the laws of physics...
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I've got one from a RF900 on my GS1000, it brakes, but it's very hard to lock up the rear wheel, and that's why I'm pretty happy with it
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Have been busy again.. about time too
Half of the crank is done now, damn it takes a lot of time, it's not real hard, just time consuming.
Now I need the straight cut gears, before I can finish the crank, but other things coming up, so I'm afraid it's going to take a while again.
But there's a little bit of progress.
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On 11/18/2018 at 10:17 PM, CockneyRick said:
And if yo
And if you know the OSS password, 10% off. Also if you ring Michelle, she gives 15% off
I live on the other side of the planet, I have to ring in the middle of the night.
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https://www.robinsonsfoundry.co.uk/shop/online-store/suzuki-parts-finder.htm
Here I found parts I couldn't get anywhere else..
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https://www.cmsnl.com/suzuki-gsx1100e-1982-z-general-export-united-kingdom-e01-e02_model13745/partslist/#.W-3yHegzaM8
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On 11/8/2018 at 4:22 AM, no class said:
A simple design but effective ...... dual barb / feed and return .....return line just slightly below the top of the fuel tank / roughly above fuel level . No reserve but in-line fuel valves can be added
I had something like that in mind too, but I didn't want to lose reserve, I need it where I live.
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On 11/8/2018 at 11:19 AM, Swiss Toni said:
Can anyone ID this gearbox? I know they all look the same, so I've put the selector drum in the frame too. It's a bit different to the 1100's I'm familiar with. I've a sneaking suspicion it's GS750/850?
It's a 6 speed, so not an old GS
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I've been experimenting with gear ratio's on non turbo bikes, but with power gains up to about 60%, I prefered the stock ratio every time. With my GS1000 Turbo I did not feel te need to change the ratio.
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Shorter rear ended for a mk1 bandit
in Oil Cooled
Posted
Something else, I noticed that after I finished my bike, when my bike is on the side stand, the "arch" of the frame, gap between frame and rear wheel, is quite evenly.
Also the curve of the rear tire and the rear end is quite even, it's those little details what makes it look good imo. That's something I noticed afterwards, that happened accidently to be honest.
I would mind taking a picture with what I mean, but I think I can't capture that nicely..