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Posts posted by Reinhoud
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My first attempt for the fuel return I build at the spot where the float for the fuel gauge is mounted in the tank, but that went wrong...
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Faulty big end bearing knocks quite loud..
You don't need a stethoscope, a flat screwdriver will do, you probably can listen a little bit more detailed with that.
I'm afraid it's going to cost you a new set off gaskets to find out what's wrong with it.
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I don't have a Bandit, but a GS1000, I needed to move the fuel tap because of different carbies, I built the return on the spot for fuel tap.
Steel strip en welded a tube on 1 cm from the top off the tank.
Fill tank with water, and the paint will be right during welding.
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On 7/11/2016 at 4:15 AM, Gixer1460 said:
Std sleeves - not for Big Blocks - i'm guessing these are 84-86mm bore stylee?
He can get custom stuff too.
No shares in his company, just good experiences
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Probably only friends so they think they get a cheap roof over their head when in the UK.
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You're talking about a motor, and about Suzuki engine parts, it must be a hybrid!
Motors run on electricity / oil / air, when it runs on fuel it's an engine.
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This man has a lot of stuff, also intake manifolds or air cleaners, for sale, very reasonable prices.
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I just had a look, clutch basket of a GS1000 / GSX1100 have 87 teeth, too much diference unfortunately..
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I've read that somewhere too, but are they just as strong as aftermarket ones?
I also have a smaller rear wheel, I've got a rear fork off a Bandit 1200 in it, so a smaller rear sprocket is not an option, I also made a hydraulic clutch on it, so a bigger front sprocket is also a bit of an issue..
If I look on the internet, you find billet clutch baskets on the stock gear, straight cut gears on almost stock engines, it's all over the show!
But if I spend some money, then all the weak links aren't as weak anymore.
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I know, I'm going to put 493 Katana rods on the crank, so I wanted to know before I press the crank apart and together.
Clutch is also not a problem, nothing I haven't done before.
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Replace the oil, and let it run for a long time! Then replace oil again
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It's a GS1000 with a GSX1100 clutch..
I'm not aiming for 200+ HP, but you never know where you end up.
Thanks, Straight cut gears are sold for 425 USD, so probably something to spend some $$$ on.
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Gents,
Not sure if I ask my question here or in Forced induction..
I've built a turbocharger on my GS1000, and what I was afraid of happened, engine destroyed, conrod snapped.
Now I'm going to put stronger rods in, but I'm still not sure about the clutch, I had a lock up on it, I didn't had any problems with it.
So, how much HP and/or Nm can a stock GSX1100 clutch handle?
Thanks.
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Just now, wombat258 said:
My experience is that kevlar frictions are more prone to slippage, and I have had clutch shudder with carbons in a race application. Stockers are grippier, and have a predictable lockup point.
Ah, ok.
Thanks!
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Nice! Mate of mine had one, I loved it!
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Just now, wombat258 said:
The best clutch frictions are genuine from Suzuki. Stay away from kevlar or carbon based compounds.
What's wrong with kevlar and carbon frictions?
No experience with either off them.. Just curious.
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I've had Mikuni RS34's on my GS1000, I didn't noticed if it had more power (from 26 to 34mm), but the throttle response was insane.
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Oh, if you do a top end oiler, make sure you connect it to the feed line in the head, I've seen photo's on the www from someone who bolted it on the return, and he didn't even realized that he did do it wrong.
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No, measure diameter of hole trough cylinder, calculate surface area (square mm), do the same with the stud, retract one from another.
Calculate surface area thicker stud, retract one from another.
Now you calculate what size you need to drill the hole, I had to drill mine 1mm larger. Oh, make sure you got enough material left before you start drilling.
Drill cylinder and cylinder head. Not hard when you have a drill press
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Also go with a higher compression ratio, you'll notice the difference!
Fuel return
in Forced Induction
Posted
Yes, I have it like that.
You can weld on the tank without fucking up the paint, fill it completely with water, but be care full.
Take a 5mm thick flat bar and weld that to the tank, this can be tricky because off the thin wall thickness of the tank.