Reinhoud
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Posts posted by Reinhoud
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On 2/16/2017 at 10:02 PM, Reinhoud said:
Don't use a flywheel puller, screw a bolt in the flywheel, M16 fine tread, buy both fine ones to be sure, use rattle gun, if it doesn't come off then, bash the head off the bolt with a big hammer (while bolt is under tension off the rattle gun attempt), comes off straight away.
I was thinking after I posted this, doesn't has the GSX has a different end on the crank then a GS? Doesn't the end of the crank from a GSX sticks out of the flywheel?
If that's the case the trick with the bolt in the flywheel doesn't work...
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On 2/6/2017 at 1:14 PM, Gixer1460 said:
As V&H and others were active in ProStock, these systems were / are designed to work at high rpm's - 12/13,000+ rpm due to short and fat primaries - 20 odd" x 1 and 7/8th" and to me, adding 'silencing' just eats hp through back pressure!
The silencer doesn't has to cause any back pressure per se.
If you take a perforated pipe the same diameter as the pipe what takes the four incoming pipes, and you take the outer pipe for the muffler about 3 to 4 centimeters bigger then the perforated pipe, that makes it quite a bit less loud... to a more "acceptable" level..
I made my exhaust like that, and it isn't that loud.
I must say, in Tasmania the police doesn't give a f#ck if your vehicle is loud, they just look at you and smile. (as long as you're not going to fast, you get away with a lot!)
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Don't use a flywheel puller, screw a bolt in the flywheel, M16 fine tread, buy both fine ones to be sure, use rattle gun, if it doesn't come off then, bash the head off the bolt with a big hammer (while bolt is under tension off the rattle gun attempt), comes off straight away.
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I had a turbo from a Mitsubishi Evo 3, what was to big, I think it was a TD05 16G.
Maximum torque at just over 5000rpm, started building power at 4500rpm.
How much power? 150atw on dyno, after fidling around with jets and ignition timing I estimate I had about 210/220hp at the crank.
Don't go Chinese, I had one for $300, it was crap, also don't let the turbo spin without any oil, the stuff up real quick!!
Mine ran fine, but it took some work.
Also, make sure the internals can handle the extra power, mine couldn't...
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On 1/17/2017 at 10:01 AM, Captain Chaos said:
Turbos suck.
Actually, that's wrong. They blow. Just read as many topics in this section as humanly possible, and if you have any questions after that, just ask.
If you're serious about buying and not doing yourself, get in touch with Dave Dunlop (Fastbyme on here)
Turbo's can't blow without sucking!
@ TS, Once you felt that power kicking in, you want more!
When you have about 1200cc, a turbo bike has plenty of power in the lower revs.
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I don't know about the CR of your bike, but engines with a low CR cams with a lot of timing won't work.
For example, a GS1000 with stock pistons and a 184 degree cam will not work, it makes the bike slower instead of faster, put high CR pistons in it, and goes like lightning.
Do your home work before ordering
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If a Bandit 1200 rear fork with RF900 wheel fits in a GS1000, you should be able to get done what you want to do.
Think in solutions, not in problems.
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Put aligner on front sprocket, because when you put it on the rear sprocket and the wheel isn't straight, you go wrong.
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So, your carrier is too much out?
If so, take the spacer out of the back wheel, put carrier in the wheel, and measure if there is any difference, so, if the carrier wants to go in deeper.
Did you measure if the chain can go more to the center? (Closer to the tyre)
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What's the issue then?
I life for 7 years in Tasmania (I'm Dutch) , but the English English what is used in this forum is quite often very hard to understand..
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Oh, you want to know the calculations?
T1 x Z1 = T2 x Z2
T = rpm, Z = amount of teeth. Now you need to know the gear ratio's in your engine.
Pi x D = circumference wheel, do this in cm, calculate back to meters.
say rpm off back wheel is 2000rpm, say the circumference is 214cm, is 2.14 meter
2000 x 2.14 = 4280 meters per minute.
4280 meters is 4.28 kilometers
Now you have to go from minutes to hours, is times 60
4.28 x 60 is 256.8 km/h
So if your back wheel is going at 2000rpm, you're going 256 km/h
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My GS1000 goes a little faster, stock gear ratio, but smaller back wheel, feels like I have a close ratio box, quite nice.
I've got a 170 tyre in it, wider doesn't work in mine.
I made the back wheel in the center off the frame, made the sprocket carrier as close to the tyre as possible, and then align the front (off set) sprocket, measure what size spacer I needed.
I did it with string too, I thought I did a good job, till I checked it with a laser, it was a centimeter out.
Doesn't sound much, but the stress on the out going shaft off the gear box will be a lot less!
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No, it would make finding one easier..
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Don't use string, it looks accurate, till you check it with a laser...
What do you mean with the numbers, what sizes are that? From what?
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I've got a GS1000 carrier in a RF900 wheel, that's in a Bandit 1200 rear fork in a GS1000.
Not an answer to your question, but may be it helps you ..
The carrier fitted 1:1, but I think I had to make up spacers/bushes to get the right distance. (It's been about 7 years ago I did this)
Get a laser aligner, this will help you to perfectly determine how to set things up. Put laser aligner on front sprocket.
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Does a GS1000 one fit?
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21 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:
Totally agree but as you'll generally be doing timing or adjustment where the degree wheel will be requirement then why not use it and remove the possibility of introduced errors between relying on a tape measure and a degree wheel? Personal preference is use one scale for multiple measurement / setting.
With regard turning engine backwards and forwards it doesn't make much difference as long as you remember to approach the measure point from the same direction each time ie. wind it backwards at least 1/4 turn past the point and then wind it forward - this takes all the backlash out so can be relied upon - it works for me!
Yep, but it's just a way to make it a little bit more fool proof, if you have the marks on the fly wheel, you have a good reference/starting point, so you can focus more on the cam timing..
I can be a little chaotic sometimes.
Focusing on one point, and then forgetting to give other things the attention they need.. If you get what I mean.
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On 12/9/2016 at 9:33 AM, Leblowski said:
I am running 108/110 on my oilcooled 1216 tried a lot of diff settings.
108/110 was best in keeping torgue until 8000 rpm i wanted a nice steady torgueline as long as possible
All other settings i tried where worse, it all depends on what behaviour you want.
What where your experiences with different timing?
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On 12/9/2016 at 0:23 AM, vizman said:
i would've thought stock/mild cam more suited for street forced induction....but then i've never had anything but stock on my (street) turbos.
I had webcams grind 119 in the GS1000, 2mm more lift if I'm right, timing should be close to stock. (if that is possible with more lift)
That the bike had forced induction is not relevant, just wanted to share my experience.
With "on boost hardly any difference", I mean, doesn't matter what the cam timing was, on boost the power was almost the same
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When I was busy with the turbocharger on my bike some told me to experiment with the cam timing, so I did..
Result, didn't matter if a made the overlap bigger or smaller, it lost power, throttle response was crap, and on boost there was hardly any difference.
Bike ran at it's best on the stock timing, but maybe others have different experiences.
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You don't need a degree wheel to determine your TDC.
Assuming your fly wheel cover is off and fly wheel is visable.
- Make a pointer and mount that in one of the bolt holes, make pointer so that it's close on top of the flywheel, make point on the pointer.
- Take piston stop and turn that into spark plug hole
- Turn fly wheel to one side till piston hits stop.
- Mark with marker on the fly wheel where pointer is.
- Turn fly wheel the other side till piston hits stop.
- Mark again where pointer is on fly wheel
- take a ruler and mark the center of the 2 marks, this is your TDC.
- Off course it's all about how accurate you do this.
My experience, as long as you set everything on the stock marks it's ok, I didn't notice any difference after dialing in. (trying to improve stock setting that is)
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Nice project.
Tip; use a laser aligner to align/check the front and rear sprocket, it's the only way to do it right, you might think you it right, till you check it with a laser..
Clamp laser on the front sprocket.
When I rebuild my bike I aligned it with a piece of string, I thought I did a good job, turned out it was over a cm out.
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Nice! Is the frame from a GS1000? Doesn't look like it, or is it just a GS1000 engine?
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Water cooling is only build in because people didn't let cool down the turbo charger before turning their car off..
clearence big end bearing GS1000 crank
in Air Cooled
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Gents,
I couldn't be bothered to look for the old topic, please forgive me..
A while back someone asked what the clearances on the bearings should be of the roller bearing cranks..
I made myself a shop press, and I just put a new con rod and big end bearing on my GS1000 crank which stuffed up.
So, if that person still wants to know what the clearance should be, there's no clearance, the con rod fits beautifully on the crank, without any clearance.