Reinhoud
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Posts posted by Reinhoud
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That Garret one looks alright..
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The idea is that I get a different spooling, the current one is too big.
I'd like to have a TD04 size, but I have no idea what it compares to with the IHI ones. The IHI VF ones are ball bearining and quite affordable.
What I could find on the net, is that the 23,24 and 29 are about the size what I'm after.
If it can make about 250hp on the crank it's good, I'm not after real high numbers, I think when the engine blew up it had about 210/220hp on the crank, that was fast enough.
I'll look into that Garret one.
Thanks
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May be ultrasonic testing. But whatever testing you do on it, I wouldn't trust it. With all the testing you can do on it, they're all to find porosity or cracks, you can't find out how strong the material is without breaking it. You won't find that with NDT
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Guys, I need some advise...
I'm looking into what sort of turbocharger to get, I had a TD05-16G on it, that's too big, boost came in about 4700rpm, and took another 1500rpm to get full torque.
Now I'm thinking of a IHI VF one, they're ball bearing ones, the ones I think might be suitable are the 23 - 24 and 29.
Anyone suggestions?
Since a few months I have another job, which what I earn a bit more, and for my new boss I'm working in an aluminium plant for a few months, and with this job I have about 2.5 times more free to spend money as my old job in the orchard, my Land Rover is coming to an end, so I can spend a small fortune on my bike again.
Meanwhile I have build a press, so I can go busy with building a stronger crankshaft
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On 5/1/2017 at 1:12 PM, markfoggy said:
Limited Forging sites for Mag in Italy at that time.
Probably a Private commission, but Campagnolo must have been involved.
Well somebody needs to feed back the costs of recommissioning that. MagnaFlux inspection, detail welding and repair, re-Chromate. Not available in Italy/Croatia.
:lol: PM and I can probably get it sorted.
Magna flux? On a non ferrous material?
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How is the throttle response?
How does it go when you ride it, does it feel weak in the lower revs? And then it goes? That's cam timing..
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Is the ignition ground plate adjustable? Does the engine get more hot then it should be? High fuel consumption?
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Ignition timing too late?
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21 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:
How fast do you want to go ie times and how much money you got? Once you establish that we can give you directions as the cat can be declothed many ways!
Your second question should be the first.
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On 4/28/2017 at 1:02 PM, gshub said:
Cams and better Carbs is what mine need it currently has Gs1100g ones and flat out about 130ish but loads off midrange grunt !...
GS1100 head? What is that in European model? I've got a stock head with bigger ports and valves and 34mm made fit on it..
I also have a beautiful gas flowed head, honestly, it's a piece of art, it runs beautiful, only the @ckh@*d who sold it to me didn't give me the right cam bearing caps, so I had to make it work, and now I don't know if this was the reason for excessive smoking..
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Something else, do you also have a set of hot cams in your GS, that makes a hell of a lot difference on a GS1000, make sure your exhaust is not restrictive, then a GS isn't so slow anymore...
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On 4/26/2017 at 1:06 PM, Spirit said:
You advise a smaller master cylinder diameter - why? I was almost ready to go with a bigger piston...
So, you didn't pay attention at school during physics..
It's a bout the ratio between the master cylinder and pistons, basically what say what now!? 1460 says.
Bigger piston does actually the same as a smaller master.
There's something else, but I don't know how this exactly goes and if I'm right with this, hopefully someone else knows more about this; the friction between your brake pads and discs, when you put 6 piston calipers on your bike, I ASSUME you have bigger brake pads, therefore I ASSUME you have less pressure per square centimeter what can result in less braking force.
Surface area is good, and pressure per square cm is what you want, and this in the right ratios.
Again; assumptions from my side.
What I mention in my earlier post, is all what I know what works well
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Try sintered brake pads, or a smaller diameter master cylinder.
I have no experience with 6 piston calipers, but I've heard they're not better but worse then 4 piston ones.
Sintered brake pads brake a hell of a lot better then organic ones, braided brake lines are also quite noticeable.
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It's very hard to find information about this.
What you say about pressing and getting sloppy I already knew..
So, best thing is just to leave it like it is?
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I know, but apparently you can't balance a crank with con-rods on it.. That's why this topic..
What do you mean with measuring variance without machinery?
Did you measure the indexing from a stock crank?
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I only read half of it, measure your A/F!! That's the only way to determine what you have to change and about how much.
Be aware, too rich or too small can have similar symptoms.
Measure and take the guess work out.
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I put the 34mm ones on my GS1000, who had the 26mm carbies, milled off the head and put aluminium plates on it and milled that from 26 to 34 mm with a tapered mill, runs beautiful, way better then the stock carbies, but something tells me you're not after this kind of info...
Put some petroleum jelly on the carbies or heat the manifolds up with a hairdryer, then they should go into the manifolds.
If what you want to know is, do 34mm's go better then 36mm's, then yes, but you only notice that in the higher revs, or highway use
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I hardly read anything, best thing to do, is the thing you don't want to do.... Experiment!!
Almost every exhaust you buy is compromised, what do you want, low down power or power in the higher revs?
Runner diameter too big is also no good, gas speed goes slower, best thing is to make an exhaust from SS, SS doesn't conduct heat that well so the gasses get hotter, this is what you want, the hotter the gasses, the faster they flow..
Also, an exhaust shouldn't be too long, the longer the higher in revs the power gets available, no more or less power, just in a different rev range.
No 2 engines are the same unfortunately..
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Guys,
For my GS1000 turbo project I need to build a stronger crankshaft, I build a press, I've got a dial indicator and a copper hammer and enough time on my hands
so I'm going to do it myself, I already had trial run fixing my old crank, it wasn't too difficult.
I already figured out how to do everything, so the next thing came to mind, is it worth the effort to press the crank together without the con-rods and have it balanced?
Does anyone know if the crankshafts are properly balanced from factory? But another thing, say I press the crank together without the con-rods and have it balanced, would I fuck up the balance when I take material from the throws and weld it?
This is something what gets me in doubt.
Hopefully some has experience with this..
Something else; my GS750 I had in the past, and my GS1000 always had some kind of vibration when the engine is running, my mates CBR1000rr (2012) hasn't, his GSXR750 (2006) vibrates too, is this caused by an unbalance in the crank?
Thanks for your input
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Gents,
I couldn't be bothered to look for the old topic, please forgive me..
A while back someone asked what the clearances on the bearings should be of the roller bearing cranks..
I made myself a shop press, and I just put a new con rod and big end bearing on my GS1000 crank which stuffed up.
So, if that person still wants to know what the clearance should be, there's no clearance, the con rod fits beautifully on the crank, without any clearance.
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On 2/16/2017 at 10:02 PM, Reinhoud said:
Don't use a flywheel puller, screw a bolt in the flywheel, M16 fine tread, buy both fine ones to be sure, use rattle gun, if it doesn't come off then, bash the head off the bolt with a big hammer (while bolt is under tension off the rattle gun attempt), comes off straight away.
I was thinking after I posted this, doesn't has the GSX has a different end on the crank then a GS? Doesn't the end of the crank from a GSX sticks out of the flywheel?
If that's the case the trick with the bolt in the flywheel doesn't work...
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On 2/6/2017 at 1:14 PM, Gixer1460 said:
As V&H and others were active in ProStock, these systems were / are designed to work at high rpm's - 12/13,000+ rpm due to short and fat primaries - 20 odd" x 1 and 7/8th" and to me, adding 'silencing' just eats hp through back pressure!
The silencer doesn't has to cause any back pressure per se.
If you take a perforated pipe the same diameter as the pipe what takes the four incoming pipes, and you take the outer pipe for the muffler about 3 to 4 centimeters bigger then the perforated pipe, that makes it quite a bit less loud... to a more "acceptable" level..
I made my exhaust like that, and it isn't that loud.
I must say, in Tasmania the police doesn't give a f#ck if your vehicle is loud, they just look at you and smile. (as long as you're not going to fast, you get away with a lot!)
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Don't use a flywheel puller, screw a bolt in the flywheel, M16 fine tread, buy both fine ones to be sure, use rattle gun, if it doesn't come off then, bash the head off the bolt with a big hammer (while bolt is under tension off the rattle gun attempt), comes off straight away.
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I had a turbo from a Mitsubishi Evo 3, what was to big, I think it was a TD05 16G.
Maximum torque at just over 5000rpm, started building power at 4500rpm.
How much power? 150atw on dyno, after fidling around with jets and ignition timing I estimate I had about 210/220hp at the crank.
Don't go Chinese, I had one for $300, it was crap, also don't let the turbo spin without any oil, the stuff up real quick!!
Mine ran fine, but it took some work.
Also, make sure the internals can handle the extra power, mine couldn't...
Advice neeed on Nitrous.
in Forced Induction
Posted
Isn't it easier to have a turbo charger then? Or do you get more power with nitrous?