Reinhoud
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Posts posted by Reinhoud
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12 hours ago, mikethemechanic said:
Helicoil Ends can protrude slightly into Combustion Chamber. Causes Preignition and engine damage at Hi RPM. Timeserts are the proper way to do the thread repairs. If you go to all the Bother removing head do Time serts. On my Race Heads I put Timeserts in every one.
Are you talking about the standard helicoils?
For sparkplugs something else is used
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On 7/6/2021 at 7:42 PM, TonyGee said:
i know its a ball ache but when ever ive done plug threads ive always pulled the head off, its just the thought of any cuttings sitting in the combustion chamber, yeah you can use grease but its not a guarantee you won't drop any bits. just my way
I tried to fix sparkplug thread once with head on, but there was quite a bit of swarf in the cylinder after cutting threat..
I tried to use a cvacuum cleaner to clean it out.After that I needed to take the head of for another reason, there was quite a bit of swarf left in the cylinder
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I was told that the con-rods don't like a lot of power at lower revs..
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23 hours ago, Dukeman said:
Yep - I was riding along and bang... a huge noise gave me the shits.
I though the exhaust must have fallen off... piston in bits or crank .... turned out No. 2 spark plug broke free and wanted to make a run for it.
The thread is gone.. so I will helicoil all 4.
Questions.
Can i remove the head while the engine is still in the Katana?
Will there be room to clear the studs?
What are the best helicoils? I hear there are some real good ones?
Any advice?
I had the same with my Merc, a shop put a sort of sleeve in it, I still have the tap, and only 1 sleeve, I think you ca get it at an automotive parts store.
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On 6/26/2021 at 6:10 AM, Maggotbreath said:
First ride
50,000 km later.
Sadly sitting in a corner of the cellar gathering dust
You clean your bike?
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On 6/25/2021 at 6:55 PM, Joseph said:
Basic question, but how rideable are these setups (talking about the more reasonable 230-250 hp bikes shown above) ?
I'm thinking spirited riding mode ON, speeding up to a bend, brakes, downshift, revs go up, turbo kicks in due to exhaust surge, and so you're lifting the front wheel while on the angle you're leaning over to take said bend ?
Thats basically what caused the Renault Super 5GT turbo for example to go in straight lines when cornering back in the day
Mine isn't that fast, but that step in my seat is there for a reason!! First I had my old seat on, but when I opend her up I was almost sitting on the tail piece.
Also with the step in the seat it's easier to keep it under control.
I do start to think that my bike has more HP then I think..
When my bike was running way to lean and with the ignition too much advanced it cranked out 150HP. Hayabusa's crank out 160HP on that dyno, and when I fiddled around with the ignition timing and put bigger jets i it it gaind quite a bit more power, con rod snapping much
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I think I'm going to check the balance of the clutch..
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17 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:
Usually by inserting Tungsten plugs - easier to lose opposite weight though!
Thought about the clutch balancing but maybe as it spins opposite to the crank it works like a damper? Never aware of one being balanced!
Usually, yes..
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17 hours ago, clivegto said:
How do you add weight to the crank, is it done with spot welds.
I drilled holes, and some spot welds on other places.
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If the carburfuckingettors getting filled I wouldn't worry too much..
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On 6/25/2021 at 5:59 PM, Blower1 said:
It can be good idea to check clutch balance also. Clutch is a big rotating mass and if not in balance, can cause vibrations.
I did think about that, but no clue where to take away or add weight..
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On 6/6/2021 at 6:42 PM, Allspeeds said:
Now the results were surprisingly low the bike was fully stock except it’s Japanese 4-1 full system with baffle fitted , it only made 154hp!
Bit we had a base line to go from so next job baffle out results-164Hp!
we’re going the rite way
so next step was obviously been a Dynojet centre I fitted a PCV now before people jump in the early ECUs are not supported by woolich so I couldn’t flash the ecu however I only want to change the fueling so the PCV does this job just fine so on we go
166Hp with spot on fueling however the stock air box is very restricted so I then fitted a Sprint P08 Air filter and cut the bottom of the air box out increasing it’s intake bye double and with a remap we hit 168Hp
The local Dyno here also isn't as optimistic as what you see most of the times..
Busa's crank out about 160HP. My mates CBR1000rr from 2012 cranks out 148HP
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Winter, not allowed on the road till the 5th of August ;), time to take the engine apart..
Although the bike had less vibrations in the lower revs below 5000rpm then when it was stock, it started to get vibrations above 5000rpm, so much that the hydro clutch didn't work anymore. It's also annoying when you want to rev the crap out of it on a straight.
That's why I took the engine apart, also was curious about wear and tear of the engine, also a good excuse to install the gasflowed head I have lying around. This head needed some work, that's all done now..
Made a stand, sprayed the bearings with brake cleaner, put the airgun on them, bearings spin about 150,000rpm, after that they spin really light.
- Draw a degree wheel on paper, copy of the dgree wheel on the crank
- Spin the crank every time from the same position
- Where the crank stops, put a dot on the paper. The more divided the dots, the more it is in balance, in theory
- Take away or add weight
- This is not as easy as it looks I found out!! I had it almost riht pretty quick, then I wanted to do the finishing touch... That took about 6 hours to get that right again.
Was pretty fed up with it I can tell you.
I leave it like it is now, the bottom left section, near 67, for some reason I could not get weight in there. Every time I tried it stuffed up somewhere else.
Lot of times I got clusters top right between 22 and 45.
It's not perfect, it's reasonably divided, now there are 2 "empty" sections, first there was only 1 "empty" section..
I hope it worked...
Tomorrow put the crankcases back together.. About time to order gaskets too, I guess.
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On 6/21/2021 at 8:52 PM, Gixer1460 said:
Nothing special compared to some!
Thanks.
For some reason I thought you would have a bike more like Meanbean has.
The cylinderblock you have, does it have ports for cooling? I was under the assumption that those big blocks were for dragrace only..
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@Gixer1460I'm pretty curious after your bike
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3 minutes ago, TonyGee said:
Im only 58 im still learning to read
sorry dude 
I'm 47, and I'm also still learning..
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1 hour ago, TonyGee said:
Doh !!!!! what a fecking plonker, i thought for some reason we where talking about a 1200 bandit ?????? just ignore me (its the drugs you know) i'll go away eventually
Hahaha, it's a GS1000 with a 1245cc big bore
A Bandit 1200 would have made my life a lot easier most likely
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A dynorun is probably also a good idea.
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16 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:
That certainly won't help! Detonation likely cause?
You reckon?
It did have some detonation, but the grooves were narrow already..
I thought of something.. But I don't know if there's a name for it in English (I'm Dutch)..
Last summer I did a bit of a tour through the north east of Tasmania, was about 180km, but didn't ride like a retard, but in Launceston I had to wait for traffic lights, and slow traffic, so the engine probably got hotter then she should.
After that it was 50km back home on the highway, about 10km before I was home the bike sort of died, start running like crap, almost stalled.
Then she went back to normal, and it never happened again after that..
Now I'm starting to think the engine might have been to hot. In Dutch we call that a warmloper, hot runner ;). And that might have caused the the marks in the cylinders..
I never abused the bike for a long time..
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19 hours ago, TonyGee said:
cylinder bore service limit is 79.080mm . piston service limit is 78.880mm. piston/cylinder service limit is 0.12mm. from factory service manual.
I don't understand..
Mine isn't stock..
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1 hour ago, El Gringo said:
Thanks boss, it's getting there, I got it to rev to about 7K before the stuttering so i've made a few tweaks to the jetting and float bowl compensation hoses but haven't had chance to test it properly yet
It was approx 158kg with oil but no fuel using the everso reliable bathroom scales and block of wood technique
You should ask my wife what she thinks about the bathroom scale method
Nice bike! Is that a 400 frame?
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Did some measuring;
Bores are 78.31mm, pistons are 78.13mm = 0.18mm clearence. Max clearence according to JE is 0.17mm
The marks are causes by the pistons, just under the rings.
From 2 pistons the top ring is a bit stuck in the groove..
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3 hours ago, wombat258 said:
Looks pretty normal skirt scuffing to me. Oil film might be breaking down at operating temperatures. Oil brand/grade/service intervals should be assessed.
0.14mm (.0055") piston to bore is OK. Hone it and you will be fine.
Check crank is running true and indexed. Could be the vibration problem if it was not welded.
Cylinders and pistons have done only 3500km.
Crank is welded, it's true and indexed, spend a bit of time to get that right. I found the cause of the vibration I think, was a slight unbalance in the crank, about 25 grams
I'll give the pistons and the rings a proper inspection..
Your opinion please
in Forced Induction
Posted
I didn't notice you replied..