-
Posts
1,177 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Posts posted by Reinhoud
-
-
May I ask a (probably dumb) question?
What's exactly a slipper clutch? Is it a clutch without a clutch lever what engages when the revs go up?
- 1
-
12 hours ago, Blubber said:
In other words:
Think wisely about the engine positioning in the frame:
more to the front is easier on the downtubes,
More to the back is easier on the chainrun.
Find a balance between .
I think I had a daft moment...
- 4
-
On 8/12/2021 at 7:38 AM, Fazz711 said:
Main things to consider are drive sprocket position and exhaust.
Sprocket close to swingarm tends to give better handing but can give problems with exhaust.
Exhaust may need heeders extension to reach the ports.
Swap into gs thou will be similar to swap to gsx so look for some of them as well in the projects.
Huh? How? Sprocket and exhaust are on opposite sides..
-
-
On 8/10/2021 at 1:06 AM, rerb said:
That would be unfortunate as i replaced all gaskets 1000 miles ago. As for the source, it does seem to be seeping from there. I cleaned it off and watched it as it idled and some creeped out. Where have you guys tapped for extra breathers? I have the one off the oil fill currently.
The holes where the studs go in, are this blind holes, or all the way drilled? If drilled all the way, you need sealant on the studs when you put them in..
-
-
The stud might need a bit off sealant on the thread.
It might need a new base gasket.
-
On 8/5/2021 at 11:36 AM, rerb said:
Not that I can tell. Again, if it wasnt for people telling me that I could be washing my cylinder walls I'd be happy to run it the way it is.
I don't think it will wash the cylinders..
- 1
-
8 hours ago, Arttu said:
It's quite big turbo for your engine. I would guess it makes full boost somewhere around 6000-8000rpm.
Then another thing worth of noting is that if you run it at too low boost and air flow it won't be very efficient. If you look the compressor map you can see that anything under 200hp will be outside of the optimal efficiency range. So in the worst case it won't be any better regarding the exhaust pressure and air temp than some smaller turbo. But if you turn it up to 300hp / 1bar range then you start be at the sweet spot.
Hmmm.. That's pretty high rpm..
I should have internals what are strong enough, I can go up in HP numbers.. But it's not what I try to achieve, if it's there it's nice.
-
-
Probably less heat in the intake too with a big turbo
-
15 minutes ago, no class said:
I'm thinking of taking it, I probably need a bigger intake pipe, that gives it less restrictions in the intake and exhaust, so most likely better running off boost to a higher rpm..
I have no idea how to read those maps..
-
Gents,
I can get my hands on a free gtx3071r turbo, ball bearing, almost new.
My mate had it on his Subie, cranking out about 500hp, he got himself something with more output.
Now I'm not after big HP numbers, I have the idea that a bigger turbo with less boost might be better then a small turbo with a more boost.
I've got an VF20 now, full boost at 4000rpm, but a lot of detonation, I think the detonation is because of the small turbo.
But the gtx3071r, would that be too big? I've got 1245cc cylinders on my bike.
Thanks
-
Is it blowing black smoke?
-
I do notice with my own bike that when I close the throttle the boost pressure goes up, by at least 4/5 psi
-
21 hours ago, Pudzrx said:
Why not just convert to hydraulic operation ? You can buy the gearbox end on Eblag cheap enough , and use a decent mc.
Puddy
I did that with my GS1000, not hard, but you need a lathe and may be a mill
-
8 hours ago, rerb said:
Does anyone here not use a BOV? if so I'm curious if removing mine would damage anything other than the turbo. My thought is without the quick release of pressurized air from the BOV, would closing the throttle at boost damage the slides in the carbs since they'll still be experiencing 12+ psi of boost? My td05 is an extremely cheap Eblag one, and I'm planning an upgrade soon, so I'm not too worried about it. My issue is that the BOV hits the engine case and due to the awkward angle of the silicone pipe connecting it, leaks out boost. For the time being I plan to delete it with a pipe, but don't want to damage anything. ny not having a BOV while I build a new setup. Thanks.
I don't think not having a BOV is bad for a turbo, the only car I have seen what has a BOV from factory was a Lancer EVO.
-
-
How is it going in the UK?
MOT, does it need to be done every year?
Are you allowed to modify your bike? Does it need to be engineered?
-
Why wouldn't you use a base gasket?
-
On 7/16/2021 at 6:13 AM, bluedog59 said:
External oil feed.
Doesn't matter, you still get the oil/pressure down there..
-
Do it right straight away! Don't do a bit now and a bit later. If it f#cks up it's going to cost a lot more!
Ask me how I know
-
8 hours ago, Jmckechnie said:
This engine is slightly larger then stock, I think something like 1080 or 1090cc. I can’t remember exactly what bore is, probably 1mm over stock.
1085cc is a bore of 73mm.
Unfortunslly you can't use stock gaskets then.
-
14 hours ago, Jmckechnie said:
Update:
Had the head and cylinders inspected for flatness at a local machine shop- he took a tiny bit of material off the head to clean it up and otherwise said the cylinders were in great shape
As for gaskets I went with an MLS OEM gasket- didn’t have a large enough opening for the o-ring groove for the cam chain tunnel, and had no o-rings to seal the studs up to the head.
regardless, the install went smooth and guess what- not a drop of oil has passed by with hours of thrashing on the bike in its street tuning chassis. It’s now home back in the LSR chassis, ready to race when ever the boarders are open.
Thanks fellas!
Do you have the stock 70mm bore? If yes, then the stock gasket is the best choice
Show us your Turbo/super charged bike
in Forced Induction
Posted
That looks like a mix between blow and suck through..