Jump to content

Reinhoud

Members
  • Posts

    1,176
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Reinhoud

  1. On 8/12/2021 at 7:38 AM, Fazz711 said:

    Main things to consider are drive sprocket position and exhaust. 

    Sprocket close to swingarm tends to give better handing but can give problems with exhaust. 

    Exhaust may need heeders extension to reach the ports. 

    Swap into gs thou will be similar to swap to gsx so look for some of them as well in the projects. 

    Huh? How? Sprocket and exhaust are on opposite sides..

  2. 17 hours ago, rodneya said:

    Suzukioilcooleradapter-1.thumb.jpg.e91b9a73c2c7a6f0a41b1693bb98da92.jpgCoolerAdapters.thumb.jpg.ba5c99fd8c56da205fb811ada8bb45d0.jpg

     

    SuzukiOilCoolerAdapterinstalled-470x353.jpg.802349132fec3806f209b9784f14c9b3.jpg

     

    These adapters are advertised as fitting the GS 2 valve motors. Is there a reason that it can not be used on a 4 valve motor as long as it clears the tensioner wheel?

     

    Those adapters miss a rim to centre the O-ring.

  3. On 8/10/2021 at 1:06 AM, rerb said:

    That would be unfortunate as i replaced all gaskets 1000 miles ago. As for the source, it does seem to be seeping from there. I cleaned it off and watched it as it idled and some creeped out. Where have you guys tapped for extra breathers? I have the one off the oil fill currently.

    The holes where the studs go in, are this blind holes, or all the way drilled? If drilled all the way, you need sealant on the studs when you put them in..

  4. 8 hours ago, Arttu said:

    It's quite big turbo for your engine. I would guess it makes full boost somewhere around 6000-8000rpm.

    Then another thing worth of noting is that if you run it at too low boost and air flow it won't be very efficient. If you look the compressor map you can see that anything under 200hp will be outside of the optimal efficiency range. So in the worst case it won't be any better regarding the exhaust pressure and air temp than some smaller turbo. But if you turn it up to 300hp / 1bar range then you start be at the sweet spot.

    Hmmm.. That's pretty high rpm..

     

    I should have internals what are strong enough, I can go up in HP numbers.. But it's not what I try to achieve, if it's there it's nice.

  5. 15 minutes ago, no class said:

    those gtx’s are the bomb …… that 3071 may be a bit big for your application but for almost free……. take it !

    F040365A-F573-4BFA-88C7-825A1B850E32.jpeg

    7EF9C780-A054-4C95-B5A5-85917EFB2EDB.jpeg

    I'm thinking of taking it, I probably need a bigger intake pipe, that gives it less restrictions in the intake and exhaust, so most likely  better running off boost to a higher rpm..

     

    I have no idea how to read those maps..

  6. Gents,

     

    I can get my hands on a free gtx3071r turbo, ball bearing, almost new.

    My mate had it on his Subie, cranking out about 500hp, he got himself something with more output.

     

    Now I'm not after big HP numbers, I have the idea that a bigger turbo with less boost might be better then a small turbo with a more boost.

    I've got an VF20 now, full boost at 4000rpm, but a lot of detonation, I think the detonation is because of the small turbo.

     

    But the gtx3071r, would that be too big? I've got 1245cc cylinders on my bike. 

     

    Thanks

  7. 21 hours ago, Pudzrx said:

    Why not just convert to hydraulic operation ? You can buy the gearbox end on Eblag cheap enough , and use a decent mc.

    Puddy  :)

    I did that with my GS1000, not hard, but you need a lathe and may be a mill

  8. 8 hours ago, rerb said:

    Does anyone here not use a BOV? if so I'm curious if removing mine would damage anything other than the turbo. My thought is without the quick release of pressurized air from the BOV, would closing the throttle at boost damage the slides in the carbs since they'll still be experiencing 12+ psi of boost? My td05 is an extremely cheap Eblag one, and I'm planning an upgrade soon, so I'm not too worried about it. My issue is that the BOV hits the engine case and due to the awkward angle of the silicone pipe connecting it, leaks out boost. For the time being I plan to delete it with a pipe, but don't want to damage anything. ny not having a BOV while I build a new setup. Thanks.

    I don't think not having a BOV is bad for a turbo, the only car I have seen what has a BOV from factory was a Lancer EVO.

     

     

  9. 14 hours ago, Jmckechnie said:

    Update:

    Had the head and cylinders inspected for flatness at a local machine shop- he took a tiny bit of material off the head to clean it up and otherwise said the cylinders were in great shape

     

    As for gaskets I went with an MLS OEM gasket- didn’t have a large enough opening for the o-ring groove for the cam chain tunnel, and had no o-rings to seal the studs up to the head.

    regardless, the install went smooth and guess what- not a drop of oil has passed by with hours of thrashing on the bike in its street tuning chassis. It’s now home back in the LSR chassis, ready to race when ever the boarders are open. 
     

    Thanks fellas!

    5F71DE3B-9277-45D7-9D7C-0A130156765D.jpeg

    Do you have the stock 70mm bore? If yes, then the stock gasket is the best choice

  10. On 6/19/2021 at 12:17 AM, rodneya said:

    I just looked at the sheet that came with my JE 1270 Kat pistons, and the recommended clearance is 0.0508mm or 0.0020 inch. That is for a 75mm bore.

    Your clearance is 3 times more on a 78mm bore

    I didn't notice you replied..

     

     

    Installatie.jpg

×
×
  • Create New...