Reinhoud
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Posts posted by Reinhoud
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You need the size your bike runs properly on, don't look at someone elses bike, you can use it as a base, but not for fine tuning, if you don't have an A/F gauge yourself, put it on a Dyno, this will take the guess work out.
Too lean or too rich can somewhat give the same symptomes..
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18 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:
Ambition and abiity! Know your's and the machinery's limits and stick to them - there's plenty who didn't in graveyards!
I know my limits, I'm sure someone who knows what he's doing can go faster on my bike, but I don't realy care, I know I'm also not the slowest..
My brother in law got an accident about 8 years ago, just a stupid accident, misjudged a corner, still on his learner, he landed very unlucky, the results were VERY serious, he's lucky he survived, he still can't walk like before, I always have that in the back of my head..
When I ride my mates GSXR I can go faster on that bike..
Where I live there are corners about every 300/400 meters and going up and down continually, most of the corners you can't see through, when I can't see through I just don't have the guts, like I have troubles lining up the bike properly to take the corner.
Couple of weeks ago my mate and I were in the "local mountains" hair pins and stuff. Because I'm slower then my mate I was up front, going through the hair pins, at one point we got overtaken by other bike riders, when they were in front of me they were only a little bit faster then me, but the antics they did to go that little bit faster, they needed 2 lanes..
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On the last photo it does look bigger... Mine doesn't come close to 300hp.
What size do you have?
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On 2/13/2021 at 1:28 AM, cnap504 said:
Nicely done, I had a 1979 GS 1000 with ATP turbo set up really liked it. Seven pounds of boost was friendly but pretty strong, on boost 3rd gear wheelies. Smiles
Photo's?
Stock engine? There aren't many GS1000's with a GS1000 engine with turbo..
One hand, with the smaller turbo it isn't overly fast, but when I have to get close to my mate again, He has a 2006 GSXR and is a better rider and has more guts - VERY windy where I live, I'm behind him pretty quick..
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On 2/23/2021 at 4:12 AM, clivegto said:
Yes, I made these jus using a mig and angle grinder. Not the prettiest but will do the job and you get the satisfaction knowing you made them yourself.
Your turbo looks even smaller then mine..
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This is how I did it when I put another turbo on it.
Be aware, when you weld a pipe on the flange, the flange will bend because of the heat ot the welding.
Therefor weld a pipe to the flange, put the pipe in a lathe and turn it flat again, then weld the pipe to the manifold
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9 minutes ago, wraith said:
Came today in post, that was quick
Oh, looks like I'm running mine with the wrong sort of battery..
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I once bought a new alternator for my GS1000, this one was supposed to have a higher output then the stock one, but can't find it anywhere anymore, no idea about the brand.
But this together with the Electrex regulator I haven't had any problems anymore.. Even with an electric fuel pump it works alright.
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That's it!
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On 2/17/2021 at 7:00 PM, Joseph said:
Well i would say take the seat off, line up the tail piece with the side panels and see how much extra you've got to remove.
Unweld/cut off the rear brace/hoop where the seat lock goes and move it up the rails accordingly
You will need to fab the bracketry to fit the taillight on since you won't be using the mudguard anymore
This!
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In my opinion, the back looks best when the tail piece and rear tyre stop at around the same point. and try to keep the gap between frame and rear wheel about equal wherever there is frame.
I deleted the rear mud guard and welded plates in the frame instead.
These plates turned out to be useful later on to weld / bolt other parts on.
Here a photo of my butchered GS to show what I mean;
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On 2/19/2021 at 2:17 AM, wraith said:
I know it was on here somewhere but can't find it, so a big sorry in advance.
What/who dose the best new reg/rec for GS?
As I can't remember the name/contact details of the place.
Thanks.
Electrex
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On 2/12/2021 at 3:49 AM, Neveragain55 said:
All of the charts I’ve seen online put the 14T / 43T set up at a ratio of 3.07
The stock set up of 15T front / 48T rear gives it a ratio of 3.20
These ratio numbers mean nothing to me and despite all of the videos I've watched and articles I've read, my thick head still doesn't get it.
It’s very simple:
Is the 14T / 43T setup the best in terms of getting good top end (over stock) without losing too much of the lower end and midrange punch
(in other words, is it a good compromise)
As always, thanks in advance.......
Can you calculate the difference in top speed between both ratios? May be that wil give you a better understanding..
Calculate it back to the amount of revs what you're riding with at an average speed..
May be it can give you an idea in difference?
When you ride your bike, do you feel the need to shift up a gear? If not, I wouldn't worry about all this.
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14 hours ago, Neveragain55 said:
Great points....
When I started this project, the builder asked me similar questions.
Here's what I explained to him:
"I want this motor to produce a bit more power (HP) than stock, but I'm not looking to go nuts and wind up with a motor that will overheat in daily traffic, or be temperamental and constantly shut off, or require race fuel to run properly. It has to behave like a stock (no issues) motor, but it needs to embarrass the "kids" pulling up to me on their modern bikes thinking they're about to blow away an old man on his old bike. I need/want a decent top speed somewhere near 150 (or above), but I also need enough midrange punch to blast around the slow-pokes out for their Sunday cruises."
He told me that he completely understood, and that he's built hundreds of motors producing exactly what I was looking for, that's when he suggested the 1186 kit instead of anything larger.
The engine was completely disassembled, the castings were sent out to be acid cleaned, and everything was re-assembled correctly.
Take a look:
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Also, the transmission was rebuilt, and the gears are "straight cut", we have Carrillo rods, APE studs & springs, APE cam chain tension adjuster, etc., etc., etc.
You have to trust me when I tell you this motor was built correctly, it's actually sick. We're going to run Keihin 39mm FCR's
So, the build is all behind me now, what she puts out is what she'll be putting out, and I'm pretty confident that I'll never be able to open her up and let her run all the way out until she's got nothing left to give based on the fact that anything above 130 to 140 on such an old frame (braced or not) is going to feel like 250 mph. and scare me to death.......if I'm being honest.
I just read half of what you posted, and not many responses...
My opinion/preference/experience regarding a better performing engine; more displacement, slightly higher CR, cams; stage 2, or just more lift. Now, don't pin me down on this please; I think that when you go more lift, you automaticaly change the timing. My experience is, don't go for too wild, with just a bit more lift/timing you get a better mid/high range, most likely you get a very well performing engine from "low" down. Hopefully someone can correct me, or explain it better.
What you win at the top, you lose at the bottom, keep that in mind.
But personally I pefer an engine what is torquie over a lot of HP
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A sort of good way to tell if valves are bend, make something you screw into the sparkplug hole, where you can connect a hose on, the other end to a compressor.
Slightly increase pressure, if a valve is leaking you will deffenitly will hear it.
You'll feel it to on the crank when you try to lock it with a spanner.
Don't ask my why I know this sort of dodgy stuff.
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I did not read any post...
My experience, stock ratio is usually the best.
Best way to check if the ratio is ok, but this is my personal opinion; the vehicle should make just, or just not the maximum rpm in top gear..
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How does it run without plenum?
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What Meanbean says.
Make sure it runs as when stock, then go further step by step.
Don't be pretty sure the coils are right, be sure!
The pressure from the fuel pump should not exceed 2psi.
To check if your float needles do their job; connect fuel line on carburfuckingettors, hold carburfuckingettors up side down, blow into line. If you can blow through, the needles aren't doing their job.
Play with floats to see if everything works ok.
Float height, is best to adjust by connecting clear tubes on the floatbowls and bend them up. carburetors in riding position, and let fuel run into the floatbowls.
Now you can see how much fuel there is in your bowl, just adjusting the floats at a certain height isn't that accurate.
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Thanks
Little bit more torque would be nice, 20/30Nm or so.. It's not slow, but also not overly fast.
I also have the impression that the small turbo may cause the detonation, with the bigger turbo I didn't have that problem.
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46 minutes ago, Arttu said:
@ReinhoudYou got it pretty much correct:
1: Correct.
2: Yes, spacer. Only needed since I couldn't make threads up to head of the bolt.
3/6: Oil pressure switch for oil light. 0.3 bar, from some random car.
4: Banjo bolt for turbo feed line.
5: Turbo oil feed line.
You are right, it's somewhat tricky to be sure that all parts of the engine get enough oil after messing up with the system. But it helps to figure it out if you keep in mind that the oil pump is positive displacement type meaning the flow isn't significantly affected by pressure. So if you add restriction after the pump the pressure before restriction goes up but oil flow after the restrictor remains about the same. So with this modification oil flow to the engine is reduced only by amount that goes through the turbo, which should be relatively small with most of the turbos. In my case I installed also 750 pump gears at the same time with the turbo system. To verify the result I measured the pressure from the crank oil gallery before and after modification and the result was the same or even more after the mods. So the engine was still getting at least as much oil than as stock.
However, this mod is far from ideal. The pressure for the turbo varies a lot depending on rpm and oil viscosity. So as you said, with cold oil the pressure is much higher and it's a good idea to keep revs low until the oil is warmed up. When the oil is hot the pressure at idle drops pretty low, below 0.3 bar in my case. But at rpm where the turbo spools up there was always pretty good pressure so the turbo was happy.
Scavencing was just gravity drain to the sump plug in the first revision. Later on I made a deeper oil pan with dedicated connection for the oil return.
Thanks! Much appreciated.
Ah, now I see the pressure switch..
What you say in the 2nd section is what I expected..
I thought a little bit in that direction too, but was too unsure about results.
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Little update..
I've been tinkering with the settings a lttle bit.
Playing with boost pressure and ignition timing, bike suffered from detonation quite a bit.
Put one step bigger jets in it (142), set the retard from 12 to 8 dergrees, this made quite a bit difference! More power, smoother running.
Still detonation, mate of me recomended to try tuolene (paint thinners) mixed in the petrol, did didn't work very well and is very expensive.
Then I tried octane booster, and that works surprisingly well! Only a wee bit of detonation and very short.
I tried to ad more octane booster and put the reatrd back to 4 degrees, but this didn't work, the same amount of detonation, and no more power as when set on 8 degrees retard.
Pretty happy how it runs. I do notice that this smaller turbo doesn't give as much power as the bigger one, but only going flat out it's noticable.
When I started to ride the bike I didn't like the hard suspension, was very uncomfortable, so I softened that up, more comfortable, but I notice that it doesn't steer as well as before.
Also, after going flat out, there was oil leaking from somewhere, couldn't figure out where, looked like it was coming from the breather.
Turned out that the restrictor from the turbo oil feed line was too big, turbo got too much oil, up pipe was oily on the inside. Made a smaller restriction, and all the leaks are gone now, and the oil pressure to the turbo became more stable.
When I go flat out there is an oily mist coming from the breather, maybe look at that in the future.
I am thinking of a bigger turbo in the future, but only when I find an affordable one..
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@Arttu, I try to understand your solution. Looks like your solution is a hell of a lot simpler then mine
1 is the main restrictor, what fits in the oil feed straight from the pump what goes under the oil pressure switch? The small hole allows oil flowing to the engine.
2 is a spacer?
3 and 4 I can't see what they do
5 is for oil pressure switch?
6 is turbo oil feed line?
Getting oil pressure isn't hard, you just restrict the flow, problem is where to restrict it, and make sure the rest of the engine gets the right amount / pressure.
If you have 3-4 bar when warm, don't you have too much pressure when the engine is cold?
As far as I can see is that you restrict the oil coming from the pump, but where you connect your oil feed line, wouldn't you lose that pressure straight away?
How do you do the scavenge from the turbo?
Interesting, different people, different solutions.
I always look at the ways of how other people do it, I usually can learn something from that, mostly I do a mix and match from different ideas.
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16 hours ago, Arttu said:
Beep, wrong!
With the mod pictured above I had about 3-4 bar pressure for the turbo, warmed up. I run a plain bearing turbo with that for about 20 000km without issues.
How? Just because of that restrictor in your (home made?) banjo?
You have 3-4 bar pressure in the turbo oil feed line?
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On 2/7/2021 at 3:43 AM, OldSoul67 said:
I might check that out. I got ahold of an original maintenance manual so i could adjust the valves and have the right torque specs, however that was before i decided to get this far into it.
Valve clearence is between 0.03 and 0.08mm, cold
This is for the 1000, I think the 750 is the same
Head nuts are 35/40Nm
Rotor 125Nm
Clutch hub 70Nm
M6 is about 10Nm
M8 is about 14Nm
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Shopping list for modifying my gsx1100 engine
in Air Cooled
Posted · Edited by Reinhoud
What sort of Marvin exhaust do you have? The Marvin I know isn't exactly high performance..
I would go for a stage 2 cam, may be higher CR and bigger displacement. Mikuni RS carburfuckingettors are a nice additive, my experience not more power, but an incredible throttle response..
Porting the head can give a nice result too. Not more power per se, but a nice flat torque curve is quite a win too.
Keep your exhaust short, stop it before the rear axle, the shorter the exhaust, the lower the amount of revs your powerband starts, not more power, but you move it through the rev range.