Sheep

Okey doke....i am using fresh fuel through an auxillery tank as i am still waiting on my tank to come back from the painters but i will get a better idea how the carbs are when i get it on the road....hopefully sooner rather than later.

Really,that woud be cool.I have seen a few vids on hootoobe showing a basket problem.I have bench synched the carbs but yet to really use them.Thanks bud

There's nothing I don't like in those pics.....i'm dead jealous.

Guys,took my bike out of the shed today to start her up to make sure everything is ok before i get my paintwork back soon and ready for the road. What i have noticed now i have it running on idle nicely is a noise which i described in the title as a thumping noise from what i think is around the main gearbox area.I tried recording it but its not clear enough to post on here.I can compare the noise to a missing cylinder which it isn't before you ask lol.I can feel it through the frame but an old fashioned screwdriver stethoscope to the ear doesn't really enhance a particular area.Pulling the clutch in helps considerably as does raising the revs whether it be through the throttle or by tweaking the tickover.Slowing the revs down really low only increases the noise. My first thought was wear/play somewhere in the motor or due to bad timing yet it seems to rev pretty freely.The history on the motor is unknown and i have yet to put it through its paces.The previous owner did say he would stand by the good motor but i bought it as a non runner due to carb problems.The motor i standard except for Mikunis,flowed head,complete exhaust,and uprated chain tensioner This noise has always been there but i,m close to getting it on the road and its playing on my mind.Sorry for my lack of knowledge but this is my first big aircooled Jap in my long list of bikes..shame on me

I did not know that.....every day is a school day

Hmm.not entirely sure which way up they would fit but you should see a little step inside the plastic that coincides with the tang area. Years ago i used to work in a factory which made diagnostic looms by the thousand and we used to use a special tool which you could remove pins if they were fitted incorrectly.Normally the pins should slide in easily until a soft click is heard meaning the little tang has made it home.If you do get it wrong a long thin piece of tig wire or hair clip pushed down the side where the tang is can push it up so you can pull the crimp out again. However,do this too many times and the tang gets tired and will eventually break off.

If its very light i shouldn't worry too much but if its worse then you may want to empty it out and take a closer look.I its that bad then there are products out there that will seal the tank making it good again. A wise man once told me during winter/storage months keep the tank full to the brim of fuel,even with a dash of oil in it,until you put it back on the road again.This will stop water/condensation taking a hold on the walls of the tank.Come spring time,empty the fuel into the lawnmower and re-fill......either that or take the tank off,empty it and store it somewhere dry,like the wife's wardrobe

Shed engineering...my kinda work lol

Take my money.......

Katanamangler, I changed my 130 mains for 132's simply because i read on the Mikuni site that when running a free flowing exhaust and air filters you should step up a size.I have a flowed head but on standard bore but it does run ok if very slightly on the richer (grey plug) side of things. This may not be enough info to answer your question though,sorry

Ok,i will ask his brother,my workmate, tomorrow

I have a red n black undergoing a paint job but the guy doing it took a swatch card to it for the match.That's no help to you with codes but it is an option.:)

Aint that the truth lol.... Buy them both.I am biased though as my first Suzuki i ever bought was an RG250,many moons ago.I wish i still had it.

How many make it back again is another thing lol......

Apparently no others fit from the older Suzuki's and it seems they are getting scarce or expensive!

Oh i dunno,nothing a couple of cable ties won't sort out...My brothers Kwakanaka is held together with them.In fact,every time a bolt gets left on the ground a cable tie goes on!!

3 laps in 20 mins.....i thought you weren't allowed to keep pace notes lol.....do the bikes have to be road legal as i have a monkey (gorilla) bike but its in off road trim??

Have you tried silicone grease/spray?...it will not affect the rubber either

Charlies feels like its going off camber slightly and Mansfield is tough on brakes i found

I started in novice but moved to a higher group last year and although i was faster than some,others left me behind.I can remember my first year there and i found myself trying too hard to keep up and trying to get my knee down etc lol..i then thought 'fudge it' and just rode my own way and unsurprisingly i felt a lot faster.Corners became easier and i started keeping people in check. The Hairpin and Barn bends i struggled with,but i loved coppice and Chris curve.

Now thats more like it...........i can see this at home around Cadwell this summer

No mate its fine....i would look slow in the novice let alone the supers lol....cheers

YJ, I notice the groups are novice,inters and fast/race as they used to be but the last couple of years they were novice,euro/brit,pocket rocket,supers and fast....is it like the former again this year or the latter. Im only curious but i guess inters would be in superbike class?...either way as long as the track open i do not care Oh and do we need to download the relevant forms ourselves?..i know we can do it early on the day before registration but it does get really busy in the room and the more time i can save to get into the zone (go for a pre race poo) the better.

It may not be that popular but as you said,it runs nice,a perfect hack then

I would have no need to have one normally but yes they do look friggin cool lol