Sheep

Ever get that feeling that someone is looking through he shed door laughing at you while you scratch your head figuring out what's wrong with the bike??? So tonight i had yet another go.I am waiting for a replacement pick up unit to rule that out but in the meantime i had a go at cutting the pick up wires and swapping them around to see if the problem goes to the other two cylinders but no dice...it didn't start...i put them back again as they were originally and it started on 2 and 3 as before. I also swapped coils again but the 'bad' coil was fine so i can rule those out...So i am looking at the pick ups or the amplifier unit possibly.Has anyone had problems with either and if so what are the symptoms? Just one more thing...i noticed the coil feeding 2/3 would 'jump' as i flicked the kill switch on and off.The coil was loosely mounted and it would physically move as the switch turned on and off...the other coil feeding 1/4 did not do this...I tightened its mounting bolts yet i could still feel the body 'energising' as i operated the switch...is this significant???? Any help appreciated guys

Unfortunatly i havn't......i have been doing some internet searching and there could be some truth in the pick up coils failing.This would account for the coil to one pair of cylinders playing up even if it produces a spark.I have read that they degenerate with age/heat etc. I forgot to mention i did put the coil from 2 and 3 to try to get 1 and 4 to fire up but it wouldn't have it. So,its either way too much fuel wetting the plugs (new or old) even before they get a chance to start the motor OR something is stopping one pair of cylinders to fire/spark with enough oomph to burn the fuel....even though i have spark on all four,it seams a weak spark is as good as none at all....i might try a multimeter test in accordance with the manual tomoz.

Ok...tonight i tried again...i didn't do anything until i put brand new plugs in Cyl 1 and 4 to rule those out.The motor started up straight away but again on 2 and 3 only.Plugs 1 and 4 obviously damp but not soaked.plugs 2 and 3 sooty but dry but this could be down to lots of start stops from cold. I checked all leads and plugs on 1 and 4 for spark,which they do albeit a little white spark,not a fat blue one. I then put the coil for 1 and 4 onto 2 and 3 and it ran on those two cylinders which tells me the coil is fine.Given the fact that the original coil for 2 and 3 has been starting the motor i assume both are fine.I put a meter across the coil terminals and got 03.6 ohms on both.The meter was in the 20 ohm range.I may have used it wrong as i am thick when it comes to ohms and stuff lol So here i am scratching my head.Could it be the igniter unit perhaps because this,and the pick ups,are the only things i'm aware of that control the spark.Can the igniter fail yet give the coil a spark albeit a weak one?..How do i test the igniter because the bit that tells me in the manual has been chewed by the wife's Labrador!!!! I don't want to rule the carbs out just yet but i gave them a good going over before fitting them.I honestly thought the brand new plugs would have fired the motor on all four and then if there was a problem with fuelling on 1 and 4 it would eventually become apparent.Yet it did not start on 1 and 4 from the moment i pressed the button. Aargghhh!!!

Just to add,these attempts when starting the bike where without filters if that makes a difference

I have just this minute finished reading Dynatek website regarding polarity,which there is none lol.... The fuel leaking was due,it seems,from not having a clamp/jubilee clip on the hose.Second time round i fitted them and it all stayed dry but i know where you are coming from.Its another option worth investigating.Thanks.

I highly recommend this trackday guys.I spoke to Darin last year about his bikes (is he bringing them lol).Its such a laid back weekend with much to do and see.If you only do one a year make it this one. You never know you might make it into the magazine!!...I did once albeit in park ferme behind 20 other riders

Yes,this was my thoughts too although i am getting a spark from all 4 new Taylor leads and plugs.The bike did run before on all 4 albeit with the wrong size carbs which made me think the coils should be ok.Mind you i have modified the loom during the rebuild but only by shortening and/or removing unwanted wires.The only real mod i made to the coil wires is putting in a 'superseal' waterproof connector inline to aid future maintenance. Is there a correct way the wires connect to the coil because they have no markings on the body? I assumed looking at the Haynes manual they can go on either side just as long as they are paired correctly. When i first started the bike over xmas (on oversize carbs) the original plugs got wet but once i threw a new set in it ran well. I will try the swapping over method and see if that works.I hope the coils are ok because i bought the bike as a project with a list of various quality aftermarket parts but that list is slowly dwindling due to finding out they are non genuine parts or they need replacing due to wear and tear!!! Thanks for the replys guys.

Okay,i have acquired a good clean set of RS36's to replace my others but i am experiencing a problem with Cylinders 1 and 4 getting wet with fuel. I fitted them once i had replaced the main jets from 140 to 132.5 with no other adjustments.I believe the standard sets come with 130's but after reading Mikuni's site i went with 132.5's due to having a modified exhaust and free flowing filters. Yesterday i ran the bike and it started well but soon dropped to 2 cylinders with fuel leaking from under the carbs.I stopped the engine as it turns out the fuel lines were not tight enough on the intake tubes. Today i decided to bench sync them.I adjusted the floats to 17mm,synced the slides,and gave all the pilot screws a half turn out from fully in.All needles were in the middle groove.I tried them on the bike again but only 2 and 3 ran.1 and 4 downpipes stayed cold enough to hold.I took the plugs out and they were very wet.I dried them with a hot air gun and tried again.No luck...checked the plugs and they were a little damp.I tried for sparks from the Dyna coils and they both sparked.I tried 2 old plugs (the current ones are new) and still no joy and they are still wet.I haven't swapped the 2/3 leads to 1/4 yet to see if it changes as i ran out of time.I may try that tomorrow. I am hoping i have just killed the plugs again with fuel but if anyone else have any suggestion please feel free to shoot them over.

I remember seeing some funny bikes going round when i was at the bar and i even said to the missus how come they are on track...i didn't know there was a charity option to do this..lol.. I may have to drag my monkey bike out too

I'm in for Saturday track day....Gsx1100..experienced at Cadwell,not necessarily fast lol....

Being a welder myself i would have thought some form of prep work would be involved before welding it to ensure good penetration (snigger) but i am no expert in crank mods!!I once welded a two stroke single crank which was pretty straight forward as it had been balanced before welding and the crank pin prepped too. My old tutor once told me an 'Expert' was this......EX-SPERT....'Ex'= as in 'has been' and Spert (spurt) is a 'drip under pressure' lol.

2014 WAS wet lol.I remember going to park ferme,just me and one other on a TZ250 from our group.We both got drenched and i remember laughing with the guy when he took his boot off and tipped all the water out of it.....They then stopped racing due to a flooded track just before the mountain.

Wahey....i have done the last three PS Trackdays and i thoroughly enjoy them and recommend them.They are very relaxed and full of like minded enthusiasts who,unlike some public events, don't dick around on track but still cane their prized possesions.A massive range of bikes/pornography and last years Suzuki special was the icing on the cake.I am not a fan of riding in the wet (bad teenage experience)but decided to think what the hell when it rained one year.I still enjoyed it and found my confidence growing on every lap.I am not the fastest by any means but this year i will have to go in the fast class which could be embarrassing lol.... Dont think about it...just book it. I may be only doing Saturday due to work commitments,possibly staying Friday night if time allows.If not i normally travel up early Sat morn.

For a 6mm bolt thread repair you dont need too much meat around it.You are only drilling out a small amount. Good advice above concerning letting the drill do the work.....Although i would try other options first there is always JB Weld which can be drilled/worked but try the insert first.

Sorry mate,i forgot to add,its an air cooled GSX 1135 motor.circa 1984

You know what,im glad you mentioned the brake lines....the early pics show them routed through the forks rather than how i have them now.I may have to look into that lol.

If i may chirp in i have used Helicoils to varying degrees of sucess.I found taking your time and getting them inserted fully makes for best results.My current project had a few helicoils in the cam caps (ooer) and a ham fisted owner made a bit of a mess of the bolts.I ended tapping the hole oversize and buying some fasteners and bespoke rubber washers and they were good as new.When i was working on them i found 2 coils had started to wind out so it pays to get them fixed in tight.

Hi mate.Thankyou.Yes i made the filler at work.It helps being in the engineering trade lol. The main 'body' of it is stainless as i was going for an unfinished look to it.Have you seen the Racefit bikes with these.They are sweet and they tend to weld them to the tank and leave unfinished but i wanted my welds painted but not the body.The top plate is aluminium,yes,which bolts to the body.I will let you into a secret,the filler nearest the rider is a true filler with a Harris cap,the rear is a dummy but i am using it as a breather to be a little different. To fit it all i had to weld a blank over the o/e filler hole.It is surprising how thin these tanks are!!!..I may paint the alloy top in crinkle black to compliment the casing but my mate says to leave it raw.I don't know yet. Seeing some of the bikes on here makes me think i have a lot to learn still.The old ones get me going much more than the new stuff.

Hi mate,as far as i am aware,bearing in mind i didn't go as far as strip the barrels,block etc it is standard with the exception of the head having had a little tickle to improve flow.When i was talking to a local parts supplier i mentioned the carbs and he said it could be a big bore motor but as far as i know it is not and i bought it under the assumption it was not anything larger than standard.Could i tell visually or would i need to strip to confirm?....(the latter i guess).I am surprised the last couple of owners used it as it is.Having said that the last owner is into drag Gsxr's now and you would have thought he would have known this.He was a decent guy and i still have a lot to learn so i never questioned anything really.

Oh cool....thats interesting.Like you say,some people think bigger is better.Thank you.

Guys,having just bought a bike with some nice RS flatsides i find it disappointing that they are way to big for the bike.My friend used to have a Katana 1216 with Mikunis and he loved them.The thing is i would like to have these carbs on the bike and after doing a lot of reading it seems they are popular. The ones i have are 40's and not 36's as i believe they are supposed to be.My main question is can i jet them down to perform like the 36's or will the bore size still cause me issues??I do not really want to buy a new set at £800 or so and ideally i do not want to go back to the CV's unless i have to.It seems a shame to have these attached to the motor and not get the best out of them. The bike does run (i havn't got it on the road yet) and apparently was ran like this by the previous two owners!! but the exhaust is rich and tends to bog when revved too quickly which in turm makes it cough a quick short flame.I do have new Taylor leads,plugs and Dyna coils fitted btw. Is down jetting possible to get a useable set of carbs or not?Any help appreciated.

The pics of the original build do not look too bad but there were a few things i wanted to change.The genny casing had been dropped on its head and sort of welded,although it measured ok the rear shock fabrication was a little untidy,the rear frame was cut and shut,the Yoshimura rear-sets were not Yoshimura but chinese replicas,the Koso dash worked but had dubious connections etc etc....i didn't want to have to strip it all down but im glad i did.Then again thats half the fun.Since i have built it up this far i found the frames powdercoating has gone a bit iffy,not a major problem but i can see it even if no-one else does.i plan to use it a lot this year then next winter i can see myself getting the frame done again.We will see.This is not a cheque book bike as you can tell by my shed hahaha...but its a hobby i enjoy.

Xmas holiday pic,...i do now have it running with new casings,oil and filter and apart from the oversize carbs it runs nice.The rear tyre left an unsightly mark on the patio much to the wifes displeasure lol...i will try and find a pic when i bought it.Someone may recognise it.