Sheep

Out of curiosity why would you run an external alternator?

Add lightness

Lucky bast$rd..... Here's my latest build waiting on paintwork and a few minor things.MOT hopefully early March.

It was a great day for a ride.I could hear local riders near me on the bypass while i was in the shed.

So let me get this straight....you are actually advising me to get it on Her Majesty's highway,wring the bikes neck like a loon,which in turn would probably mean breaking a law or two??? and to think i thought this site was aimed at sensible God fearing,high viz wearing goody goodies lol I have not done the valve clearances johnr but it is now on the list.No smoke from the breather either....(that rhymes) it does have fresh oil and filter tho

Thats just what i wanted to hear Katanamangler lol......as soon as the paintwork comes back she getting an MOT...

I have more smoke/fumes when revving up,less on over run.The smoke colour is grey/blue and is tough on the eyeballs lol....in the confines of the shed anyway!!.Its not a massive amount but i cannot comment how much when actually riding it as i haven't had it on the road yet.I bought it,stripped it,tarted it and put it back together.I never touched the engine internally as i took it on good authority (the sellers) that the engine was good. It was very smoky after the test when it burnt off the test oil Wouldn't the compression figures be enough to say the bores are worn? I could use this as a good excuse for a bigger cc or oversize kit but funds are tight at the mo...for the bike anyway..

Oh i see lol......it was standing a while before i bought it...once i get it legal i will

Hmmm....i like the monoshock look with all that air around the tyre but i think twins win it hands down on an ET......

Italian tune???..im going to ask what that is and probably feel dupid when i think 'oh yeah' lol..

I don't what it is recently but if its not one thing it another.... Now i have my correct set of carbs on my EFE she starts up on the button but since the first time i had the thing running back in late November i have always been concerned with the fumes it gives off when running.I decided not to think about it too much until i got the fuelling sorted.Now i have good fuelling,all bar a road set up,and good ignition but the thing still puffs when twisting the throttle.Today i took her out of the shed and ran it to get her hot and although the fumes died down a little it still puffed when revving up.(the revs hang a bit but i have yet to fine tune the carbs). So i carried out a compression test and got these results- Dry test 1=100 2=100 3=120 4=100 Wet test 1-120 2=120 3=150 4=120 So when the seller advertised it as a 'non runner due to dirty carbs but the engine is good,i will stand by this'...makes me think he is telling me porkys.....bast@rd...looks like i am needing new hone and rings

Oh ok cool...i run an external Turbosmart with my big Garret.The exhaust housing is perfectly round for the downpipe,good for flow.I did not know you could port an internal type,but thinking of it it does make sense.When i built my (car) manifold i was told by my mapper wastegate position is very important to allow it to perform correctly and avoid boost spike.A second manifold proved this. Im still amazed at how compact some bike systems are....good luck and cant wait to see some pics

I like a man willing to try something different...hats off to you my good man I own a big turbo car but i am 'new' if you like when it comes to turbo bikes but i was wondering,looking at the diagram why you choose an internal wastegate turbo and not an external type.I would have thought an external types dimensions would have been better suited to bikes seeing as the turbo outlet is,more often than not,smaller....but i love to learn new things and everyday is a school day as they say.

Tank venting ok?

Firstly.. NEWS FLASH..... Guys,the problem is sorted....get in....the bike is running on all four and boy it sounds good.Getting used to a two cylinder four was doing my nut in.... Secondly,i owe my sincere apologies to all those who said it was the carbs when i was sure it wasn't....thanks to all of you for your help. Anyhoo,i received my replacement pick-up unit today and went straight outside and fitted it,started her up and then sulked back indoors when it was apparent they were not the problem...bugger. I went back out,and check #1 plug and it was damp.So i thought i wonder if the floats were flooding the engine.I didn't want to admit it could be the carbs but i had little else to do until the next electrical part came through the post lol.I decided not to remove the carbs from the bike but remove the floats bowls in-situ to see the floats in their natural position.Upon removing the bowl i noticed it was bone dry!!..WTF?..the plug/s were wet yet the bowls were empty.So,off the carbs came again,ready to check for stuck needles.They were not stuck.I kept the carbs upright and removed each drain bolt in turn...guess what?..1 and 4 were bone dry and 3 and 2 were full to the brim!!!!! So,i established that the two end carbs were dry although the plugs were getting wet so i removed the floats,needles and needle tube/filter.That's when i noticed the tiny pin hole feeding fuel to the bowl from the fuel line was on the wrong side!!!! The guy i swapped my original flatslides with had ultrasonically cleaned his set,very well too BUT he had only gone and put the two end carbs on back to front!!!!!!!! Swapping them over,making sure the castings were correct took a little while but they went back together ok...i was sweating like a cornered nun when springs and tiny ball bearings scattered themselves across the floor though. So,carbs back together,fuel lines attached,and a press of the switch heard her roar into life....boy did it sound satisfying....and what a bloody mare too.... So again,thanks guys for all your help,it was much appreciated......i just cant wait ti get her finished.:)

I guess keeping an eye open for tyre smoke,turbo whine,and general shits and giggles will help lol

Sounds like what i would describe as a flatspot.....i had a bike with a Dynojet kit fitted which did the same.I had an airbox and k&n filter.Turned out they were not balanced correctly.An ultrasonic clean and balance and all was good. Your valve clearances and ignition want to be tip top too....try saying that with false teeth!!!!

Yes Strima,i am hoping this is all it is...i have another winging its way to mine this week.Im hoping it will cure it.Next will be the igniter box.....i hate electrics..its black magic....or rather black box magic Looking at various wiring diagrams this weekend makes the London Underground look as simple and straight as a drag strip!!!!

Spectating is free but seeing all those bikes go round knowing you have a bike of that era too will make get you itching to get out on track

Ok...today i took ohm readings between the newly fitted ring tags at the coil end and the plug which goes into the ignitor.I got readings on all wires of 00.4 ohms. I tested the unplugged coils between terminals and got 03.2 ohms on both....multimeter set at 20 ohm range. I tried linking the two orange and white wires for both coils just to see if that helped.It didn't. I carried out the test as per Haynes manual which says put spark plugs for 3 and 4 onto earth,plugged as normal into coils,ignition on and the plug for the pick-ups pulled out.I then put my meter probes between the black and green wire connections in the ignitor where the pick-ups plug in and i should have seen a spark on one plug when touching the contacts and then a spark on the other when removing the probes.This did not happen,although the harness/plug arrangement in the manual is more for other models,my EFE is slightly different. The only way i could get them to jump a spark was to plug the wires back into the ignitor and pull it out again.It was not very consistent though.Sometimes i had to wiggle the plug to get a spark,other times it would do nowt.I even hooked up a strong earth clamp to the plugs to ensure good connection.All connections were cleaned and lubed. What i did notice just before i packed it in for the day was something with the pick-ups.The wiring to my pick-ups are showing bare wire on all four when i cut them the other day.I had re-soldered them on and they are making good contact but just out of curiosity i put a screwdiver between the pair of wires on one side and then the other.I didn't know what to expect and i was just clutching at straws.On one side,the green and black side,touching the wires together cut the engine (it was running on two still) but when i did the same to the other nothing happened,the motor carried on running!!! What this means i have no clue lol....maybe that pick-up is kaput.I was thinking if it is knackered why do i get a small spark from 1 and 4?Just to add,2/3 spark is white/blue and 1/4 is orange.

I think Suzuki were trying too hard with the EFE....it has lights/gadgets for everything lol..im surprised it didn't come with auto wash wipe and self parking!!!! Deep breath,hide the hammers and bring out the multi meter Btw.thanks for all the help so far guys,its much appreciated.

Just checked the diagram and you are correct.The coil wiring is pretty straight forward. The rotor can be in any position it seems for the coil to energise.I am only using this term as i am assuming that's what its doing. The loom is o/e but i have no dash/speedo unit,no indicators,sidestand,gear position etc....just what's needed to run the engine,brake and single projector light and an oil pressure light.I have kept all the main loom as standard.This is a replacement loom as the original had a koso fitted but not as neat as i would have liked.It was a jungle of wires so i started with another and kept the dash multi block fitting to keep the wires tidy and in case i wanted to fit the original speedo etc I will check the ohm reading again tomorrow.(I think the carb and iffy running is a coincidence/red herring...if its not then i will apologise to all those who suggested carbs lol) ...........high ohms means resistance...resistance is bad...is this correct?????

The only test they really do is a decibels reading/noise test,105db if i remember....i guess if your bike is destroying itself in front of them they may ask you politely to park up lol..I made exhaust inserts for mine (big twin) but i could swear i heard louder bikes out there lol.they will give you a sticker to show you passed but they may write on it if they see a baffle insert.I guess its to make sure you use it all day.I didn't.I took mine out after hearing other bikes and no-one blinked an eye!!!....its those 2 strokes drowning me out

Cheers guys but i swapped the carbs i had for these one..d'oh...i hear what you are saying though.I still think its electrical mind you but i will not rule anything out right now.The thing is i have done all i can with the carbs themslves.They came to me clean as a whistle and i synchronised them in accordance with Mikuni's recommendations.It seems odd that the outer two carbs would cause an issue.the ignition system works in those pairs (1/4 2/3) and its like they are teasing me knowing this lol. I have tried checking with the multimeter today but kept getting continuity between all the coil wires...i then realised it because of the way the coils are made.I disconnected the wires from the coils and i got correct continuity between the coil end and the plug that goes into the ignitor.I guess i havn't screwed the loom up at least. I have tried an extra earth line too from the coils mountings...Im still confused as to why i can feel one coil 'energising' when i flick the kill switch to off...it happens to be the coil for 2/3.I can swap the coils over and that side of the loom will still 'energise'...just not both at the same time....Chicken and headless springs to mind

Cheers bud..i am going to re-crimp all the connections tomorrow on the low side.I will file the paint,if any,on the mounting lugs.HT leads are spanking new...I will post results as soon as i get them.