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Thanks for the reply. Will try with this plumbing modification. How would you change pilots and needles? Mixtures are 2.5 turns out and idle AFR is 13.5 at 2k rpm. Needles are 3rd from top. Just tried without intercooler and AFR stays at 13 on WOT with 135 mainjets.

Google is your friend (sometimes) - and from the horses mouth! - https://www.mtceng.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/piston_kit_installation.pdf

Sidestand sorted, headlight issue sorted, stiff throttle lubed and returning freely, historic vehicle V5 back and ready to go. Just been too busy but £83 insurance to pay and we're going out.

Whole range AFR can't be fixed by changing the MJ alone! Both the pilots and the needles will need attention IMO. re the plumbing, I'd have 1 tee off the main line then split that with another tee to feed each pair of carbs - seems would be more equalised to me?

Fitting an MTC kit for a turbo on a Blandit. Can't seem to find a definite answer for ring gaps. Can anyone help who has experience with them maybe.

Today was great as it now rolled along with no issues. A nice warm day in England and it was time to push the bike outside and start again at getting a fuel map into the ECU. The bike fired up nicely and then just stopped. The overboost had kicked in and this cuts the fuel to the motor. BUT WHY ?????. Two hours were spent checking wiring, voltages and air fittings until the motor started again. The pins on the Bosch MAP sensor are very, very small and I can only assume this was the problem so after cleaning, yet another problem was solved. Next week, I can connect the gear linkage, put some fluid in the hydraulic clutch and I should be able to take her down the road. The Autotune function on the MS2 will hopefully help me with the fuel mapping. With its paintwork of many colours and the white and black side panels waiting to be fitted...........I am happy with its progress and the ugly appearance.

Little update for this year. Took her out from the shed for a quick spin. During winter time I changed the pitot to different style. Previously I used pitot which was delivered by proboost. Problem with this kind of pitot is that, there is a known risk of forming void behind the pitot which will make air to bypass pitot tube when going above 0.8 bar. With this setup, I got good AFR as in the post above. Below is pic of old pitot: I was advised to make a new pitot from a tube with an inner diameter of 4mm, which is inside a 2" charge pipe (charge pipe was not changed). Below is pic of new pitot: Now I'm having problems with getting AFR right with this solution. 125 mainjets: 14-15 AFR on the whole rev range. 130 mainjets: 14 AFR on low throttle (<4k), 12.5 on boost transition (4-6k), 13 on low boost (6-8k), 14 on the higher boost (8k-10k) 135 mainjets: 14 AFR on low throttle (<4k), 10.5 on boost transition (4-6k), 12 on low boost (6-8k), 14 on the higher boost (8k-10k) What would cause this strange behavior? Mainjet seems only to affect transition AFR, not the mixture on top. Heres how my pitot pressure is shared. Is has been working well with old pitot, but not sure if its causing some problems now? Hoping to get some suggestions....

15 months have passed since I started this build. In that time, I have spent over 120 days assembling the bike. Some things have worked, other things have broken. Alot of things have just confused me because I have no idea of what I was doing. And I am still struggling with problems. A new fuel pump and modifying the fuel rail have gotten rid of my fuel issues. Fitting a Bandit swinging arm into the Slingshot frame was easy but problems have occurred due to chain clearance with the frame. The chain was also contacting the swinging arm where it bolts to the frame as well. I have also fitted longer dog bones to the rear suspension and a 17T front sprocket and the 50T rear but at least everything works correctly now. The rear shock absorber had a crack in one of the mounts and this broke when I tightened the mounting bolt. I ordered a new part and then had to strip the shocker down to fit it. More time wasted. The picture was taken when I was sat on the bike so you can see why I had to change things

yeah they are a great bike, nice and revy !!! look good with a few mod's as well.

This is really sad to read. There was a time when there were quite a few specialist frame builders around, but now so many seem to have died off. I've just read a post on rev to the limit about him slagging off other fabricators on facebook in 2022. He just seems like a complete arse.

Is it on the road yet?

I've had a couple of GSX750's and would have another without thinking. Great bike. Enjoy it. Are you going to modify it at all?

A lot of electrical problems are down to dirty/corroded connections. first port of call with electrical problems is always clean all connections and check you have voltage from the ignition. Glad to hear you got it sorted though. Enjoy the 550. I had one and it was a real laugh.

yes it was somthing like that, i keep meaning to write all this stuff down, but its too late now as i cant remember my name is dave some days!! If I remember corrctly, on the same dyno back in 1997/8 ish my 1200 made 98 HP bog standard, with Dot head cams a race can and filter 118hp and with the head and jet kit as well 130 ish?? I think, ??

I remember that, I was impressed because I seem to remember it made 130 or 135 horses with basically a head and cam swap

First bandit engine i did was B12 with DOT head and cams, years ago, i didnt know anything then, still dont know much, and just slapped it all together, it went fine, later i had it to bits and did notice a step, so used a dremmel with drum sander to make it a bit better, but it went so much better than a standard B12 i was well happy with it. cobble it together and give it a good thrashing

Just smooth the step out between the rubbers and the head.

Can someone tell me what the secondary (not pilot or main jet, the 60 one) actually does? On line its called everything from slow jet/ mid jet/ starter jet. I'm getting very conflicting info from... "its choke circuit" to its "low to 4000rpm"

OK thanks, is the type 17C I need

The Eblag intakes that say they fit, don't. Don't waste your time or money with them.

OK thanks for that. I did look for DOT rubbers and as you say they're hard to come by, not found any yet. There must be at least 5mm or more of a lip. I'll post some pics up later. I've had a lot of problems with this build other than carb issues so just trying to get it on the road for now, just one thing after another, small fortune already put into it but hopefully this is the last hurdle I've got to get over. Was thinking of getting a set and turning them out with a flappy wheel on my bench drill. There are plenty of new rubbers on Eblag but god knows which ones to get and would I have to take so much off them they'd be wafer thin ?? who knows !!

DOT head wants DOT rubbers, and Mikuni RS flatslides are a perfect fit in those rubbers, otherwise stock carbs for the 88/89 GSXR 750 were 36mm CVs. You'll get more power with a smooth transition between intakes and head. Unfortunately those 88/89 GSXR 750 intakes have been discontinued for awhile now and you'll be looking for a decent set of used ones that aren't rock hard. How bad is the fit? Post up some pics.

Hi Guys, I've been looking on the forum for a defiitive answer to this but not found it so sorry if it's been asked and answered before. My bike is an Inazuma 750 with a bandit 1200 MK1 lump fitted with a DOT head and cams,Carbs and inlet rubbers are also 1200 MK1 but there's quite a big step from the rubbers to the inlet port and wondered if that would affect performance and if so what inlet rubbers should I use ? Thanks to all replies, Stevie.

not got the info you need but if you are genuine then good luck in finding him.