Lucifer Posted August 24, 2015 Share Posted August 24, 2015 Hi there!Having little difficulties right now to find good programmable ECU for my turboproject. Can someone recommend something? For cars is easy to find but for this engine...Have before build some turbo cars but never bike. Like i understand its needed now unit to lead for 2 syl.engine...?I found something like this: http://www.ecotrons.com/files/ECOTRONS%20Engine%20Control%20Unit%20(EC4T2CTHIGIA)%20technical%20spec.pdfThere is inj 1 and inj2. Coil1, coil 2.... MAP sensor, O2, CPS...Nothing said about triggerwheel....How should look like?What u think about this, can that do well?Best RegardsRay. Quote Link to comment
Gixer1460 Posted August 24, 2015 Share Posted August 24, 2015 Pretty piss poor instructions full stop and its not waterproof - not a good thing on a bike! Quality costs - how much do you want to spendand bearing in mind the application, it's going to need all the help it can get! Quote Link to comment
Lucifer Posted August 24, 2015 Author Share Posted August 24, 2015 Thanks!That product seems strange yes... And answer for questions was from them that :we proovide only ECU and no customer support Is there anything else on market? I´d Like to skip carburettors and Dyna..BR 1 Quote Link to comment
Gixer1460 Posted August 24, 2015 Share Posted August 24, 2015 Never used one of these nor have any product ties but as a ready built budget ecu with support - what's not to like!http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/microsquirt-engine-management-system-30-wiring-harness-p-131.html 1 Quote Link to comment
Lucifer Posted August 24, 2015 Author Share Posted August 24, 2015 Cool! Seems promising. Will find out about triger. Thanks! Quote Link to comment
Gixer1460 Posted August 24, 2015 Share Posted August 24, 2015 They are usually paired up with a 36-1 tooth wheel - heres a pic of that type of wheel on a GSXR so loads of space in a GSX cover and it'll use the std inductive pick-up! 2 Quote Link to comment
slingy1157 Posted August 25, 2015 Share Posted August 25, 2015 There is a few of us now using microsquirt. I would say it is very good for the price, good support through the forums. And because of the open source nature developments are happening all the time. Things like android apps so you can view all sensor outputs and datalog off your phone is pretty good. Pay the money and get the full version of Tunerstudio as well. It's really good Software and the auto tune function works really well. No real need for dyno time unless you really want to. Just laptop in a rucksack and ride around while it tunes for you. Anyway read up, there is heaps of info out there. Quote Link to comment
Lucifer Posted August 25, 2015 Author Share Posted August 25, 2015 (edited) Thanks!Got really good help from u guys!Microsquirt seems exactly what have been looking for...They have 36-1 twheels allso but smallest seems like 4". Will täke a look around to find something smaller.BR. Edited August 25, 2015 by Lucifer Quote Link to comment
Kristjan Posted August 25, 2015 Share Posted August 25, 2015 You can have one made (water or laser cut from mild steel) and mix it with standard one to fasten it on crank. Quote Link to comment
Gixer1460 Posted August 25, 2015 Share Posted August 25, 2015 Thanks!Got really good help from u guys!Microsquirt seems exactly what have been looking for...They have 36-1 twheels allso but smallest seems like 4". Will täke a look around to find something smaller.BR. Triggerwheels.com or .co.uk do a 50mm dia one! Quote Link to comment
Arttu Posted August 25, 2015 Share Posted August 25, 2015 Megasquirt ECUs are a good choice. I have been using different versions on my GSX for over ten years now and I know numerous other successful bike installations. You just need to pay some attention which variant you choose as "basic" versions aren't robust enough for bike use, IMO. Microsquirt is one good option for basic setups and for high end use MS3-pro would be nice option though a bit pricey. In addition there are some "unofficial" variants that are well suited for bike applications. I have made some bolt-on trigger sets for air cooled GS/GSX engines. The set consists of 24-2 wheel, a VR sensor and mounting plate for the sensor. I can make more of these if there is interest. 6 Quote Link to comment
Gixer1460 Posted August 25, 2015 Share Posted August 25, 2015 Nice one Arttu - looks a good bolt on solution for the Dino motors! Quote Link to comment
slingy1157 Posted August 25, 2015 Share Posted August 25, 2015 Agreed. Looks like a nice clean solution. I helped with an install on an aircooled z and found we had to move the trigger wheel around to phase the missing tooth with fastest part of the cranking cycle to get a good tach signal for starting. Oil cooled motor's don't seem as bad for this.Did you find similar Arttu ? Quote Link to comment
Screwriverracing Posted August 27, 2015 Share Posted August 27, 2015 I have 3 RACETECH ecu's, you can have all of them for £2000. Then I can go any buy a proper Motec ecu, the dogs dangles as far as ecu's are considered.cheers SRR 1 Quote Link to comment
dnz Posted August 31, 2015 Share Posted August 31, 2015 Agreed. Looks like a nice clean solution. I helped with an install on an aircooled z and found we had to move the trigger wheel around to phase the missing tooth with fastest part of the cranking cycle to get a good tach signal for starting. Oil cooled motor's don't seem as bad for this.Did you find similar Arttu ? I have a microsquirt on a B12 with a 36-1 wheel and found the missing tooth needs to be around 90 degrees BTDC to get a constant speed as thats half way between compression cycles. Quote Link to comment
slingy1157 Posted September 1, 2015 Share Posted September 1, 2015 I have a microsquirt on a B12 with a 36-1 wheel and found the missing tooth needs to be around 90 degrees BTDC to get a constant speed as thats half way between compression cycles.Yep. That's how mine is also, but it didn't work on the aircooled Z. Had too go off the tooth logger as to the best place to put it. Quote Link to comment
Arttu Posted September 1, 2015 Share Posted September 1, 2015 Agreed. Looks like a nice clean solution. I helped with an install on an aircooled z and found we had to move the trigger wheel around to phase the missing tooth with fastest part of the cranking cycle to get a good tach signal for starting. Oil cooled motor's don't seem as bad for this.Did you find similar Arttu ? I usually place the first tooth after the missing one(s) around 60 deg BTDC but this is just old habit from Megasquirt 1 times as placement was less flexible with it. I haven't had much trouble with starting if there is enough teeth on the wheel. 24-2 has been working without problems on every engine by this far. 12-1 on the other hand seems to be on borderline on bike engines, it may work quite ok or be almost impossible to get started. Quote Link to comment
1260pete Posted September 1, 2015 Share Posted September 1, 2015 Do you really need ignition and fueling features though? why not just a standalone fueling ecu? i have a microtech that i used on a bike that was fantastic, it might even do both actually but not sure as i bought it used but i will be selling it cheap soon if any use to you mate? Quote Link to comment
Gixer1460 Posted September 1, 2015 Share Posted September 1, 2015 Do you really need ignition and fueling features though? why not just a standalone fueling ecu? i have a microtech that i used on a bike that was fantastic, it might even do both actually but not sure as i bought it used but i will be selling it cheap soon if any use to you mate?If you need to add an additional toothed wheel for the EFI (and on anything more sophisticated than a squirt of fuel every firing stroke, that is advisable) then why not - mappable ignition is worth as much as correct fueling especially with forced induction - just cos contact breakers work doesn't mean they are a sensible option? Quote Link to comment
Lucifer Posted June 10, 2016 Author Share Posted June 10, 2016 Hi again! Long time ... Stupid question maybe, but running with turbo what could be best choice for oil? How to choose? After turbine or Engine/ gearbox... BR. Quote Link to comment
Gixer1460 Posted June 10, 2016 Share Posted June 10, 2016 If you are diligent with oil changes and allowing a turbo spool / minute cool down then its immaterial - any will be fine! If you are an animal with the mechanical sympathy of a cold chisel, then Bike Based Synthetic will be of benefit! Quote Link to comment
Lucifer Posted June 10, 2016 Author Share Posted June 10, 2016 (edited) Thanks Gixer1460! In my cars i use Always some synthethic from Castrol ( mostely magnatec). Will be no arm for gearbox? Right now waiting for some details to fix turbo. Running with carbs, 38mikuni. Bike is collected and Went true tehnical inspection with Clean list. Idling like shit- never know, up and down. Hope to scrap carbs soon. Worse is between 2500-3500 rpm... Seems hungry, maybe vacuum issues. Have gearing 15/45. Real Life begins at 5000rpm. Driving with 5 gear and 160km/h starting to pull up, wheelie. Have no idea what cams, or else has been changed in Engine. Has been during 32 years 9 more owners for bike. When i bought was like scrap, much dismounted, under dust, Engine not rotating... During reparation got many gray hairs, Electric wiring was mostly overmade, cut in so many places and made some not nesessary Connections, ECU one line out to coils was burned aso... Managed to restore wiring and Engine is working. Using dyno 2.2ohm coils. From upgrade now: front- 43mm forks, 17" rim 110/50, back- 130mm longer swing,190/55 -17" All bike ca 100mm lower. New bearings,brakes and so on.. Edited June 10, 2016 by Lucifer Quote Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.