Project; Whizzy Pop Slingshot

[Danm54]

Should be, got the standard 10mm off the cam cover and a dash 10 off the clutch cover.

 

Can't get a vid up, the photobucket link won't embed and youtube is having an issue uploading the vid!

[Danm54]

Here it is!

 

Not embedded as usual...

 

https://youtu.be/cf7Vbwkr7aM

Edited April 30, 2017 by Danm54

[Arttu]

Sounds like the turbo wheel slowing down.

[Danm54]

On Monday, May 01, 2017 at 6:58 AM, Arttu said:

Sounds like the turbo wheel slowing down.

Suppose thats the only thing it can be really, anything else losing pressure wouldn't make a noise for that long.

 

[Danm54]

Dyno time booked for tomorrow, bit quicker than I expected.

 

Ran it up today and it ran very rich initially like it did last time, so I dropped the fuel multiplier at cold coolant temps so I'll see how it starts tomorrow.

 

Checked it fits in the van as its never been in there before, harder to load than the DR but plenty of room.

 

Double checked a few ecu things with Specialist Components and its all ready.

 

Hopefully it goes ok.

 

Edit, also left it idling for a while before I turned it off and it doesn't make its breathing noise. 

Edited May 3, 2017 by Danm54

[Danm54]

Dyno session over and it was mostly good.

 

Few bolts came loose during the afternoon, couple of header bolts and all of the cam cover bolts, they were torqued to the book so may need some locktite on them.

 

Temps were steady but it did need a little cool off time which is to be expected really.

 

Mapping is good with just the idle and low throttle openings to smooth out.

Only issue is that it makes the same power at 70-80% throttle as it does at 100% but it requires more fuel. There must be something restrictive at 70-80% throttle thats holding it back.

 

It makes boost really early as well which I didn't expect, could be causing the jerking at low rpm/throttle opening and I suppose could also be the restriction at higher rpm. Its a .48 housing so I thought it would be on the big side.

 

Positive day though so I'm happy.

[Gixer1460]

What type of turbo is it again - can't be bothered to trawl through 12 pages? I think your assumption is probably correct.

[Danm54]

Garrett t3 hybrid with a 0.48 turbine, not sure on the compressor side.

[Danm54]

Checked the engine over tonight, not sure if I've been unlucky or got very lucky, or both!

 

 

Lost an exhaust cam sprocket bolt and the other one has looosened enough to allow the sprocket to move.

Intake cam is fine, both had loctite and were torqued to the specs in the manual.

 

Removed the plugs but couldn't turn the engine over, had a peek down the cam chain tunnel...

 

The bolt looks a little beat up so it must have been thrown around a little

 

I'm now looking for ways to hold the cam sprockets in place and stop the bolts working loose.

Came too close to serious damage so want to try and avoid the same happening again.

 

Valve clearances seem a little tighter than they were so I don't think any piston to valve contact has taken place.

[Gixer1460]

Yeah - slipped cam timing won't have helped! I had a engine with cam one tooth out, with a turbo and we couldn't work out why it wouldn't make more than stock - surprising the difference 1 tooth makes - 125hp one day - 200+ the next!

Not doubting your abilities but those screws just 'don't come loose' if done right and with the correct goo. You also mentioned other bolts / screws coming loose on the dyno. I think your torque wrench needs checking / throwing away. I've mostly only ever used my 'wrist torque wrench' and things usually stay where they were till the next time.

[Danm54]

Seems I've lost the ability to tighten bolts up!

 

Seen a few people snap the sprocket bolts so knowing I normally tighten stuff too much I got a small torque wrench for them. 

Never seen anyone have to lock wire them so I assume most people get them right.

 

Friend told me about some new ring lock washers so may try and get hold of some, they should hold the sprocket in place as well as locking the bolt.

 

Bit of a sod but I'm glad I caught it in time and like you say, I may find some more bhp now.

[wombat258]

Camshaft bolts should not loosen, and locking washers are a waste of time. Use Loctite on clean threads (degreased), and it helps if you use an excess so that it forms a solid slug in the sprocket slot. I dont use a torque wrench, and just lean on a long series 10mm ring spanner a bit harder than an M6 bolt . . . I have not sheared an M7 camshaft bolt to date. Check that you have not broken teeth off the crank gear.

[Danm54]

What grade loctite do you use?

[wombat258]

Blue, Loctite 242.

[Danm54]

I've got blue 243, much/any difference?

 

Both are medium strength, oil tolerant and removable.

[wombat258]

243 is OK. You still have to clean the oil out the threads to get best strength.

[Danm54]

Thanks, will give them a good clean and plenty of loctite next time.

 

Checked the valve clearances and a couple had tightened up again so got some shims on order.

Head bolts are ok and the crank gear looks fine too.

 

Got a free degree wheel off a mate so in the process of making a proper mount for it off the crank, save a lot of messing about like last time.

[wombat258]

My crank adaptor has a 1" hex so that I can use a nice long wrench to turn the crank slowly and accurately, the end steps down to suit the bore of the degree wheel, and then a separate flat clamp sandwiches the degree wheel using a long M8 capscrew. To determine TDC I use a Peacock dial gauge and thread adaptor . . . I prefer it over hard stops that most people use.

[Danm54]

Bit chunky but made out of free bits, just need to pin the trigger wheels and get a slightly shorter bolt.

 

 

Use a dial indicator down the bore for tdc, go a couple of mm down the bore either side and take the degree reading, tdc is in the centre of those 2.

 

[Fula28]

your a lucky lad Dan, been there done that, with those cam sprocket bolts, I allways use  loctite 601 Green . Best grip strength (Rolls Royce) Tay jet engines can't be wrong there!!!  Never had one loose since. 

Edited May 10, 2017 by Fula28

[Danm54]

I was looking at more heat tolerant loctite the other day for the header and exhaust shield bolts. Not had chance to drop into the local engineering suppliers yet though.

 

Shims arrived today so can get those in and the cams dialed in again. Will finish early tomorrow and get a good evening in the shed.

[Danm54]

Bit later than planned but cams are in, valve clearances checked and cams dialed in

Intake centerline is 108.5 

Exhaust centerline is 110.5

 

Can put it back together now with plenty of loctite!

[Danm54]

Running again, will book some dyno time tomorrow.

[Danm54]

So not got round to booking the dyno, lack of spare cash is the problem!

 

I have done about 20 miles on it over a couple runs out, revs hang at about 3k rpm so pulled the data off the logger and it was running lean, upped the fuel in that area and tried again and it still does it but a little higher rpm.

Got back and plugged the laptop in and its reading about 8.5 lambda when its hanging now.

 

Still does the same running closed loop with corrections so I'm guessing it must be butterfly or air bypass related.

 

Coolant temps are good though, actually have to wait for it to warm up now rather than needing to get moving quick to keep it cool so I'm happy with that.

 

The swing arm is currently the catch can for the breather and there was a fair bit of oil in it, the clutch cover breather doesn't have a lot of height on it now so I put a baffle over the opening to see it it helps. 

Only a couple of spots came out after my runs out so I'll see how it fairs on the dyno.

 

Don't think there's much I can do now without an expert and a dyno so it's back waiting again.

[Fula28]

Great stuff Dan been looking forward to your update! Motors sounding promising now! Does take an age some times, work-life-balance nil cash...Be Worth it in the end!