Slingshot 7/11, pingel, RS38s and no clearance

[Upshotknothole]

So I'm currently waiting on a new set of replacement rubber spacers for the tank, but with the stock 1127 head still on the engine, the pingel valve barely clears the top of the carb when turned off. I also have a dot head sitting on the shelf that I'd like to swap over and I know that I'll have even less clearance after that. So I'm thinking about getting one of these bungs welded directly to the tank so I can ditch the adapter plate and gain a little bit more clearance.

http://www.pingelonline.com/Fuel-Valves/steel-tank-bung.asp

Has anyone used one? Also is there any difference in the clearance with a 750 or an 1100 tank? Getting the whole bike painted in a couple of months, so I don't mind chopping and welding the tank right now. Cheers

[dupersunc]

That's what I did on my Slabbie 7/11 works a treat probably gives you 10mm extra clearance. I'm sure if you go to a pipe/hose supply place they'll furnish you with a steel 3/8npt fitting for a lot less than pingel want.

On my 7/11 slingshots I raise the rear of the tank 6mm to clear the engine.

[Upshotknothole]

Thanks! Once I get the new set of rubber tank spacers I'll be able to see how much room I actually need. Hopefully I'll run into my welder at the bar after work.

[suzook12]

I found with my old 7/11, various model tanks have slightly different fuel tap positions, couldn't tell you what was the best for clearance as had maybe 4-5 tanks on it during its lifetime.... I did turn the front rubber around so thickest side was uppermost and made some longer inserts for the rear rubbers after leaving it on the side stand overnight with a full tank, the tank moved slightly and knocked the pingel partially on and flooded the crankcase!

[Upshotknothole]

I have I believe 4 different tanks at home, I'll play around with all of them to check. I have a mix of 750 and 1100 tanks in both the California(stupid fucking emissions crap) and standard varieties. Similar thing happened to me, stock petcock other than not flowing enough, stopped closing all the way and dumped a good part of the tank on the floor of my garage.

I also found that here in the states, the steel Pingel bung for welding to the tank is only about $12.

[suzook12]

5 minutes ago, Upshotknothole said:

I have I believe 4 different tanks at home, I'll play around with all of them to check. I have a mix of 750 and 1100 tanks in both the California(stupid fucking emissions crap) and standard varieties. Similar thing happened to me, stock petcock other than not flowing enough, stopped closing all the way and dumped a good part of the tank on the floor of my garage.

I also found that here in the states, the steel Pingel bung for welding to the tank is only about $12.

Don't be tempted to fill with water before welding, did that on an old kwak and tank rusted out in a very short time, was only empty for about a month while getting repaired and sprayed...

[Upshotknothole]

2 minutes ago, suzook12 said:

Don't be tempted to fill with water before welding, did that on an old kwak and tank rusted out in a very short time, was only empty for about a month while getting repaired and sprayed...

The welder I'll be going to has a trick that he's used on all of the tanks that he's welded. Holds the tank opening to a car exhaust for 5 minutes and fills the tank with exhaust fumes and closes it. It's worked so far.

[suzook12]

Yeah, i foll em with argon after venting for a day or so.... I have been known to burn the vapour off with a TIG torch before now as well, can also get some dents out doing that

 

[Captain Chaos]

I had a tank from a bike which had been standing for a while with some water in the fuel. Emptied it, filled it with vinegar, after a few days I drained it and all the rust came out. Tank is as good as new now.

[Wescooley19]

This was my solution for a customer, i made a box for the adaptor plate to sit in then welded it into the bottom of the tank and that worked a treat!