badger Posted November 4 Posted November 4 I know this has has been spoken about a load but I couldn't find anything definitive so here I am. My clutch drags 90% of the time and buying point is right by the bar, again 90% of the time. Sometimes it's about right which means when ever I let the clutch out I never really know quite what I'm gonna get. Swapped m/c twice, 19mm Hel on now, line, slave cylinder and bled and bled and bled. It's getting in my tits no end. The basket has marks In (pics attached) but to touch feels like nothing. My zx6 was quite badly warn and had the same issues but my gsxf is 100x smoother. I haven't measured the plates/ stack height but it's kinda the last thing left to swap? This is where again I'm unsure. I know oem is boss but in my search on here I've read they're made by a Japanese company called f.c.c which a full set of fibres and steels are less than £100! Trac king about £250 and OEM is a kidney. In a gsx1100f turbo motor with a lock up. Any input much appreciated! Quote
Duckndive Posted November 4 Posted November 4 (edited) have you got the correct air gap on the lock up by that i mean check the pressure plate is clearing the stack and not hitting the lock up arms Edited November 4 by Duckndive added pic 1 Quote
badger Posted November 4 Author Posted November 4 3 minutes ago, Duckndive said: have you got the correct air gap on the lock up by that i mean check the pressure plate is clearing the stack and not hitting the lock up arms Was set up by mr.dunlop when the motor was built. I could take the lock up off and try again! Quote
atom_munz Posted November 5 Posted November 5 Hello, I've got a MTC singlestage lockup on a 4-spring convo. I can share that I had a night of my rig pulling thru the beams and redlighting all of a sudden.... My issue was that I have a late model clutch lever on a modern master (with the adjustable throw on it), and the lever was bottoming on the handlebar but the slave wasn't displacing enough to fully slacken the stack. I set the adjuster to the max throw and that did it. (the adjuster lever must have been bumped closer at service or the like) Just a thought on something to check.... Hope you get your deal sorted. Quote
Duckndive Posted November 5 Posted November 5 9 hours ago, badger said: I know this has has been spoken about a load but I couldn't find anything definitive so here I am. My clutch drags 90% of the time and buying point is right by the bar, again 90% of the time. Sometimes it's about right which means when ever I let the clutch out I never really know quite what I'm gonna get. Swapped m/c twice, 19mm Hel on now, line, slave cylinder and bled and bled and bled. It's getting in my tits no end. Worn plates rarely cause clutch drag... more the opposite "slip" I have never liked the Hyd clutch operation on blandits or gsxr,s and always use a cable clutch Its easy enough to check the air gap just pop the cover off i use an allen key the correct thickness and remember a lock up don't do anything until the rear wheel turns Quote
Dezza Posted November 5 Posted November 5 Do you have a bearing on the end of the pushrod or just a pushrod that's 'long enough?' I ask as the last time I had a similar problem (not an OSS bike), clutch drag when the engine was hot but OK when cold, was when the clutch pushrod was inadvertently spinning with the clutch when the engine was running. This also spun the slave cylinder when the clutch was used and heated the fluid up, buggering up the clutch actuation when the fluid got really hot. It took months of repeated bleeding and faffing about with it to finally work out what was wrong and fix it (new bearing in the clutch pressure plate (different design to OSS bikes)). 1 Quote
Gixer1460 Posted November 5 Posted November 5 Personally i'm not liking the look of the basket! Being steel they rarely get too damaged or worn - its the hub that takes the brunt due to being soft - yours looks brand new! I've never seen a steel basket with that much marking. Chasing the lock-up set-up can wait - if there is 3mm gap its good to go. As noted above, is the push rod correct length? When I swapped a spring clutch into my diaphragm equipped GSXR, I used the std push rod but added a 6mm ball bearing which give correct operation - i've used M6 nuts before as well. Has it ever worked correctly, as its seems like its been going on for a while? 1 Quote
badger Posted November 5 Author Posted November 5 I did measure the rod and it's right by the manual but Ive got nothing to lose trying it. It has worked properly but briefly. It'll vary between being fine and being bad enough it'll stall without anything being changed but minute by minute. It's been like it since I've had it When I 1st saw the basket I thought that must be it but run my finger over it and you can't feel any of those makes. My 600 one felt like a mountain range. The bearing feels fine, I did check that when it was apart. Next step is a spacer (bearing/ nut/ excessive amount of tinfoil) and I'll update 7 hours ago, Gixer1460 said: Personally i'm not liking the look of the basket! Being steel they rarely get too damaged or worn - its the hub that takes the brunt due to being soft - yours looks brand new! I've never seen a steel basket with that much marking. Chasing the lock-up set-up can wait - if there is 3mm gap its good to go. As noted above, is the push rod correct length? When I swapped a spring clutch into my diaphragm equipped GSXR, I used the std push rod but added a 6mm ball bearing which give correct operation - i've used M6 nuts before as well. Has it ever worked correctly, as its seems like its been going on for a while? Quote
badger Posted November 10 Author Posted November 10 I've had enough time to quickly wedge a random bit of metal in the slave cylinder and give it a squeeze. Biting point is different, not sure it it's gonna cause slip as I've not been able to take it up the road. I'm curious if having a different sprocket cover is the issue? It's off a bandit, just assumed they have the same spacing Quote
McLean Racing Posted November 10 Posted November 10 Have you got warped or concaved steel plates? you only need 1 or 2 to cause an issue 1 Quote
wraith Posted November 10 Posted November 10 (edited) Whatever that is on the hub does not look good, top right. Slipping = something worn-out Drag = something to tite/binding Edited November 10 by wraith 1 Quote
badger Posted November 11 Author Posted November 11 8 hours ago, McLean Racing said: Have you got warped or concaved steel plates? you only need 1 or 2 to cause an issue Not that I could tell, no blueing and everything looked straight but havent put them on glass etc. nothing to indicate that but possible. 7 hours ago, wraith said: Whatever that is on the hub does not look good, top right. Slipping = something worn-out Drag = something to tite/binding I dunno if that just something weird.in the pic, I don't remember seeing anything like that when it was apart! But I'm gonna double check! My old 750 the ball bearing trick meant better lever but stopped the clutch coming together (slip) take it out and no slip but shit lever. That make sense? There was never a sweet spot Maybe that wasn't the norm but I won't know until I take it for a spin. I've got tomorrow off so hopefully will get an hour or 2 on it. Thanks! 1 Quote
badger Posted November 11 Author Posted November 11 Went for a quick spin, clutch was vastly better.... Then it wasn't. Back to only just working Quote
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