nickmac Posted October 25 Posted October 25 Hi all, So I keep looking at different front end swaps for my bike. An upgrade to save weight and better brakes. (Rear end too) Is there any front end recommendations minimum work that would work easily? I'm happy measuring stuff to find out just didn't know if there was a easy stand out swap. Thanks Quote
Upshotknothole Posted October 25 Posted October 25 Lots of front ends will easily swap in, but you'll lose your speedo drive with most of them. 1100W front end, swing arm and wheels will all swap over, keep the speedo drive and drop some weight. The oil cooled wheels are heavy, the W wheels aren't as heavy. Same with the early oil cooled USD forks, they're heavy. Modern front ends are lighter with better brakes, but you'll need to figure out a new speedo if you're still using the stock one. Check out the projects section for an idea of what others are using. 1 Quote
Jaydee Posted October 25 Posted October 25 49 minutes ago, Upshotknothole said: 1100W front end, Near enough swapping like for like so no real point unless original forks are goosed. A full w/c 1100 front end is slightly heavier than a o/c USD front end. I had k3 1000 forks in 750L yokes on one of my 11's. I used the slingshot wheel with disc spacers. It was more about having better brakes (radial) than weight saving for me. And there's lots of cheap pairs of 2nd hand radial calipers out there. 100mm and 108mm spacing so don't mix up. If I was going for weight saving, I'd look at bikes with a 5.5 rear wheel such as an up the years gsxr600. 1 Quote
Upshotknothole Posted October 25 Posted October 25 6 minutes ago, Jaydee said: Near enough swapping like for like so no real point unless original forks are goosed. A full w/c 1100 front end is slightly heavier than a o/c USD front end. I had k3 1000 forks in 750L yokes on one of my 11's. I used the slingshot wheel with disc spacers. It was more about having better brakes (radial) than weight saving for me. And there's lots of cheap pairs of 2nd hand radial calipers out there. 100mm and 108mm spacing so don't mix up. If I was going for weight saving, I'd look at bikes with a 5.5 rear wheel such as an up the years gsxr600. Yeah, I've got K4 1K front and rear on a 750K, pretty nice weight savings and handles great, but also needed a new steering stop, I run aftermarket gauges, and the frame was modified for the shock mount. Not really sure how far they're looking to go for a front end swap. Mentioned the W stuff because it's a direct bolt on. Quote
fatblokeonbandit Posted October 25 Posted October 25 these are fitted to my bandits, but the stem from a slingy is the same just a bit shorter Late model Hayabusa forks with radial brembos, brilliant stuff. I kept B12 wheel to retain speedo drive, but am in process of sorting lightweight wheels.. cant remember year, but R1 late model with 6 pots, brilliant front end, not difficult at all to fit, the brakes are really good any of these could be fitted to a slingy with not to much trouble 2 Quote
fatblokeonbandit Posted October 25 Posted October 25 I briefly had the R1 front on a slingy project, fitted easy peasy.. 1 Quote
dupersunc Posted October 25 Posted October 25 Just bare in mind none of the forks mentioned are long enough to run clip ons above the yoke, so you'll need some fancy clip ons if you want to run the stock fairing. 2 Quote
fatblokeonbandit Posted October 25 Posted October 25 Haven’t been able to use clip ones for 20 odd years due to knackered knees Quote
TonyGee Posted October 25 Posted October 25 16 minutes ago, fatblokeonbandit said: Haven’t been able to use clip ones for 20 odd years due to knackered knees your not suppose to steer with your knee's Garry 1 Quote
nickmac Posted October 26 Author Posted October 26 Years ago when I got the bike l had a leaking fork seal, the chrome was worn so l replaced the bottom part but being tight and skint l only did the one leg. Now the other one of course needs doing. I have the PFM iron discs on but would like radial brakes. Weight saving would be great too these are heavy lumps. Loosing the Speedo drive would not bother me, be good to fit a new leccy clock. I'll have to give the bars some looking at though because I want to keep the fairing. Something off the top yoke maybe. Thanks for the input much appreciated. Food for thought. 1 Quote
Oilyspanner Posted October 28 Posted October 28 The gsxr1100 L,M,N forks are 735mm long from memory(cap to axle centre), the gsxr600/750k6 to L0 forks are only 3mm shorter and make a good swap, but you need the front end and a top steering bearing swap. You'll lose the speedo drive, alright if you go digital speedo. There's a ton of weight to be saved with the wheels, forks, yokes and clip ons......you'll need some after market clip ons too. It's not so bad, takes a bit of effort, but for weight saving, better braking, good suspension action it's excellent. My gsxr1100n is a bit modified and weighs the same as the early -onda Fireplace, it feels very different to how it was, the money does add up - the world's your oyster ! 2 Quote
fatblokeonbandit Posted October 28 Posted October 28 I think 1100 oil cooled are 775 mm and water cooled are 765mm, thats why they are good for 1200 Bnadit as they are 775mm as well Quote
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