bruteforce Posted April 3, 2016 Author Posted April 3, 2016 No problem buddy. Proper squish = 1mm IMHO. As you know I have a "special combination" with an early short-stroke GSXR 1052cc motor on Busa pistons. As far as the carbs go, I haven't found a single setup that was exactly the same as another. It seems to be down to plenum sizing/shape, turbo size and where/how the dynamic boostcomp is placed. Feel free to correct me as I'm just guessing this. Why are the slides not opening on standard small holes on my bike but do on someone elses? My last tested 1052cc setup ran 12:1 AFR on 110's and now I need 136's on 1195cc with the same CR, squish and camtiming, and you only need 112.5's. Mysteries of blowthough carbs I guess. But it runs smooth, powerfull and nice so I'm satisfied. Quote
bruteforce Posted April 8, 2016 Author Posted April 8, 2016 So, back on track. Header hole shut and several cracks welded. Painted it "heat resistant" black just for the sake of it. Be back on the road tomorrow! 2 Quote
bruteforce Posted April 9, 2016 Author Posted April 9, 2016 Rode it twice today, one 25km run just to try the boostregulator I refitted. I thought it was set at 12psi (the setting I blew my standard testbed-engine up with last year ) but apparently it was set at 17psi. This causes violent boost-surges, just too large torquewaves for this small roadbike imho. AND it runs a bit lean when revs rise. I'll set it up on the dyno with the highest pressure combined with best AFR. So, for the second run of 100km I removed the regulator and ran it at just 7psi. I'm more and more getting used to the idea that I actually have the engine setup right this time. Just a couple of nags: Turbo catchtank just a little too small, could do with a bigger crankcase vent, and bad throttle response below 3000rpm. I know that isn't very important but when I open the throttle say at 2000rpm the engine suddenly runs lean and won't pickup without gentle feed from the throttle grip. Any suggestions? Quote
Maggotbreath Posted April 12, 2016 Posted April 12, 2016 On 4/9/2016 at 9:37 AM, bruteforce said: Just a couple of nags: Turbo catchtank just a little too small, could do with a bigger crankcase vent, and bad throttle response below 3000rpm. I know that isn't very important but when I open the throttle say at 2000rpm the engine suddenly runs lean and won't pickup without gentle feed from the throttle grip. Any suggestions? That sounds like the bad fuel regulator i had. Changed to the Yami I got from you, solved the problem. You still using the Yamaha one or Malpassi? Quote
bruteforce Posted April 12, 2016 Author Posted April 12, 2016 (edited) HI @Maggotbreath, Ofcourse I still have the Yami reg, this works just great. And as there's fuel in the bowls and no boost, the fuelreg has no business at 2000rpm? I'm thinking more about the engine not breathing enough as I don't have a priority breather anymore. Will test this by leaving the linkpipe off and see if the problem goes away. Edited April 12, 2016 by bruteforce 1 Quote
Maggotbreath Posted April 13, 2016 Posted April 13, 2016 8 hours ago, bruteforce said: HI @Maggotbreath, Ofcourse I still have the Yami reg, this works just great. And as there's fuel in the bowls and no boost, the fuelreg has no business at 2000rpm? I'm thinking more about the engine not breathing enough as I don't have a priority breather anymore. Will test this by leaving the linkpipe off and see if the problem goes away. Doh, I've always had a vacuum relief valve so not sure what it'd feel like without so could be the problem. 1 Quote
bruteforce Posted April 14, 2016 Author Posted April 14, 2016 I've decided to try an alternative for the crank driven scavenging pump that's currently fitted. There's just too many technical challenges here: Main problem being that these Gerotor type pumps do not self-prime, they're supposed to be submerged. As my turbo is (a lot) lower than oillevel, I've proven to need a very large pump (at crank height) to get things going. Also I needed to fit a one-way valve to keep the oil "column" standing in the hose from turbo catchtank to pump. Sometimes the valve leaks a bit and then the catchtank suddenly overflows when parked. I've spoken before to several guys that reported electric scavenging (gear)pumps to be noisy and break quickly. Except for one so-called solid-state type: Facet Posi-flo pumps came in today and I have to say- Impressive! Relatively small, lightweight and sturdy. Only takes 1,5A so I'd say that's low power consumption. They do self-prime and can be fitted just about anywhere. Big plus for me is that I can keep it pumping just after engine stop, so all oil is removed from the circuit and catchtank. I will install this soon and will report back. I'm also thinking of some kind of indicator light that needs to come on when the pump is not working for any reason. TBC! Quote
Captain Chaos Posted April 14, 2016 Posted April 14, 2016 43 minutes ago, bruteforce said: I I'm also thinking of some kind of indicator light that needs to come on when the pump is not working for any reason. TBC! the rear view mirrors filling up with smoke is a sign that the pump is not working 1 Quote
Maggotbreath Posted April 15, 2016 Posted April 15, 2016 That's really cool, reasonable price to. Quote
slingy1157 Posted April 16, 2016 Posted April 16, 2016 Cool, scavenge pumps are my nemesis also, so will be interested to see your outcomes. i use a VDO pump which i got second hand for a good price as new they are pretty expensive, but it is very quiet and compact, but always looking for alternatives. Quote
slingy1157 Posted April 16, 2016 Posted April 16, 2016 This my current setup. Notice the site tube so i can monitor the standing level of oil in the sump in relation to the turbo bearings, also, the alloy bung in the site tube has a small air hole facing the rear, which A. allows the oil to go up the pipe, and B.acts as a safety overflow, so if the oil does end up that high while parked, it can drip out of this rather than fill my housing. 1 Quote
bruteforce Posted April 18, 2016 Author Posted April 18, 2016 (edited) Wow, your turbo is VERY low. I've the same kind of catchtank setup with a short silicone hose and filter on an overflow pipe. Haven't got time yet to wire it in but I will. Edited April 18, 2016 by bruteforce Quote
slingy1157 Posted April 18, 2016 Posted April 18, 2016 Yep, did it to get the IC in above it and its no lower than the lowest part of the exhaust, just looks real bad when the exhaust is off. FPITA! Next time, if there is a next time, a log manifold it will be with gravity drain, like i had on the 750. Keep it simple people, keep it simple! haha. Quote
bruteforce Posted April 27, 2016 Author Posted April 27, 2016 Rainy Kingsday here in NL so time to lock myself in the garage to do some work on the bike. AMP automotive connectors to make the two Innovative gauges work ON Stealthy OFF New setup, maybe later make a fitting right into the side of the lockup spacer, but I had the modded cover already Bit of an overview. If this isn't trick looking, I don't know what will. Did a little clip on the "noise" it makes, it is very quiet. It only makes itself heard when it's running dry. Things still to do: Fit bigger mains and up the boost 3 Quote
Blubber Posted April 27, 2016 Posted April 27, 2016 That's way more productive than drinking beer in the rain 1 problem less Quote
Kid Kearsley Posted April 28, 2016 Posted April 28, 2016 On 3 April 2016 at 8:49 AM, bruteforce said: Why are the slides not opening on standard small holes on my bike but do on someone elses? My last tested 1052cc setup ran 12:1 AFR on 110's and now I need 136's on 1195cc with the same CR, squish and camtiming, and you only need 112.5's. Mysteries of blowthough carbs I guess. But it runs smooth, powerfull and nice so I'm satisfied. I tried the small hole slides too and had the same result of them not opening. I have the two large hole slides and doubled up return springs. The difference was amazing! I'd been trying to tune my bike from August to December on the small holed slides and wondering why I wasn't getting anywhere! I found with the small holed slides the slide would fail to return also, slowly descending. amazing bike! Hope to see you at Elvington?? 1 Quote
bruteforce Posted April 29, 2016 Author Posted April 29, 2016 (edited) Hi Kevin, Thanks @Kid Kearsley for your comments. Why the doubled-up springs, were they opening too fast? And yes, unless the bike blows up (like it did last year) I will come over to Elvington on it coming august. Will be great to see you lot again. Edited April 29, 2016 by bruteforce Quote
bruteforce Posted April 30, 2016 Author Posted April 30, 2016 Rode the bike for some distance today and the Facet turbo oil returnpump works fantastic. Only the oilreturn on the igi cover leaks so I've taken the thing apart to make things more definite instead of temporary. This means the return will be redirected into the side of the lockup spacer and a standard igi cover will be fitted. Because I'm on the oily bits already I've taken the sump off to be replaced by one that isn't warped (and weeping oil because of it) off of a Bandit. Also will replace clutchsprings by Barnett ones because it slips on low revs. Ordered some gaskets and fittings for it so it will be finished somewhere next week. I really really love this bike, especially the sounds it makes and sheer maniac pull are very addictive. Also lots of jawdropping when you pull up somewhere 3 Quote
gmansyz Posted May 2, 2016 Posted May 2, 2016 Glad it is finally working for you M. How is the noise from oil pump? G Quote
bruteforce Posted May 2, 2016 Author Posted May 2, 2016 5 hours ago, gmansyz said: Glad it is finally working for you M. How is the noise from oil pump? G Hi Greg, good to see your here! There hardly is any noise from the pump, you only hear it when the engine is shut down. 1 Quote
gmansyz Posted May 3, 2016 Posted May 3, 2016 Interesting. Though double springs and large return holes do not make sense, maybe restrict the pressure side? Quote
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