Gixer1460 Posted September 16, 2022 Posted September 16, 2022 Maybe worth looking into the possibility of swapping the whole basket, hub and pressure plate from the 1100W and fitting a 1000 or Busa multi stage? The latter certainly can take that sort of power? May require some clever engineering but better than tearing up plates every 5 minutes? Quote
94RF1146 Posted September 17, 2022 Author Posted September 17, 2022 14 hours ago, Gixer1460 said: Maybe worth looking into the possibility of swapping the whole basket, hub and pressure plate from the 1100W and fitting a 1000 or Busa multi stage? The latter certainly can take that sort of power? May require some clever engineering but better than tearing up plates every 5 minutes? Yes, I'll look into it. Replaced the plugs and changed the oil. Went to the track again but didn't run. Got the symptoms of blown head gasket. White puff at start-up and sweet smell. No big deal, season is over. I'll replace it, copper coat it and go dry block. No more issues. It doesn't stress me out at all. M Quote
94RF1146 Posted September 25, 2022 Author Posted September 25, 2022 Update... I replaced the head gasket, removed all the coolant and associate components. Now dry block. Also installed a scavenge pump. My oil level was just 3/4 below the turbo centerline. Had oil in the exhaust. Problem fixed (temporarily for one more race). Got idea for boost creep problem... A 90* + a 45* pipe and associate V-band (3). M 4 Quote
94RF1146 Posted October 10, 2022 Author Posted October 10, 2022 (edited) Now having water pump issues. Shaft is bad and seals are busted. I was getting coolant(water) in the oil and leaking out water at the pump. Awaiting a friend for his water pump and ordered parts to rebuild mine. My 400 LPH fuel pump support 340 LPH @ 30 psi... Last dyno graph when I spit #2 spark plug. 30 psi boost cut. recorded 37 psi. Guess what, peak torque x rpm (9500) / 5252 = food for thought... Off season scope: - Water pump issues - Relocate wastegate / turbo / up-pipe - Swap 4 inputs - Head steam bearing replacement - Extend wheelbase 4" - Learn Maxx ECU - Testing & clutch setups Edited October 10, 2022 by 94RF1146 1 Quote
94RF1146 Posted October 13, 2022 Author Posted October 13, 2022 I decided to removed the water pump and block it off with a brass freeze plug. That way oil & coolant will never contaminate each other. Awaiting for the freeze plug. M. Quote
94RF1146 Posted October 13, 2022 Author Posted October 13, 2022 (edited) 2 hours ago, Arttu said: Are you going to have an electric pump? Yes but not really necessary. It can circulate by convection. !/4 mile bike. Edited October 13, 2022 by 94RF1146 Quote
Arttu Posted October 13, 2022 Posted October 13, 2022 51 minutes ago, 94RF1146 said: Yes but not really necessary. It can circulate by conversion. !/4 mile bike. Based on my experience a pump would be helpful still. But it doesn't need to be very big or powerful. For example one that DME sells has been working just fine keeping temp rise during a quarter mile pull minimal. And it isn't especially powerful pump. You can get similarly performing ones at fraction of cost as generic car part. I guess natural circulation would be too slow to prevent boiling at hot spots. A radiator isn't necessary, at least if you don't plan to run it back from end of the track. A couple liter water tank should be fine. Quote
94RF1146 Posted October 13, 2022 Author Posted October 13, 2022 I got the water pump brass freeze plug from a FORD 351 Cleveland kit. 1 1/2" does the job. M. Quote
94RF1146 Posted October 27, 2022 Author Posted October 27, 2022 Winter project... The watercooled 79.5mm piston kit is well known for not holding water in NA form, imagine under 30+ lbs of boost. So I decided to go with a Mallory 110gph pump I had. I'm doing mockups with a hurt head that dropped a valve in 2010. The plan is too keep the head and block deck dry while remaining them watercooled. I use baking soda as a filler and will use Chris Boyette expoxy kit that the Gurls blouse car guys are using. Coming in from the water pump to the factory coolant ports in the front of the block > out the back of the block to the side of the cylinder head using -8 fittings > out back of the head factory coolant port > radiator cap / CLT sensor > radiator in tail > out radiator back to water pump. Guys in Outlaws back in the days were going all dry or keeping water in the head. I don't like the heat generated by the dry block. Keeping both in my project. I'll post pics when the motor is on the motor stand later. M. 1 Quote
94RF1146 Posted December 8, 2022 Author Posted December 8, 2022 Front & rear wheel bearings done. Next is stem bearing this weekend. Rod & main bearings later. 2 thou on the mains & 2.5 thou on the rods. 20/50 oil with zzdp. Here's my tech sheet with example for 3 different oil clearance. That's how I do it. If that can help someone... Cheers. M. Quote
94RF1146 Posted January 18, 2023 Author Posted January 18, 2023 Bearings maths done. Ready to order. 2 thou on mains / 2.5 thou on rods ( all green). Quote
94RF1146 Posted September 3 Author Posted September 3 More stuff... Reinforced the block. Quick access clutch cover. 8 Quote
94RF1146 Posted September 6 Author Posted September 6 Proper... Pamela is running , I need to do some test rides. I got a video of the bike running but it's a MP4 file and I can't upload it.. Bike has the block and head still watercooled. I didn't want to have to wait for someone to pull me back to the pits. Pamela is now 30 years old and still looking sexy. Cheers. MM 4 Quote
imago Posted September 7 Posted September 7 Nice work and good to see it happen on something a bit different. Quote
94RF1146 Posted September 30 Author Posted September 30 (edited) Hi guys, I went to the track 2 weeks ago for T&T. Ran into couple issues as a bad battery ( got a new one), running on 3 ( one wire was pulled out of cyl #4 injector connector (fixed that). Made one pass. Slow takeoff then clutch was slipping in all gear. I went testing in " Mexico" yesterday. Did some clutch adjustment, now 2x 0.60" shims under each springs and 4 washers per arm on the lockup. Seems to work. I had 10 psi in the slick and the left behind marks were showing the outside too much. Now 12-14 psi. Right now it makes 8 psi of boost on the 2 step @ 6000 rpm. I logged 45 psi in the MaxxEcu... More testing to come and some dyno time. Cheers, M. Edited September 30 by 94RF1146 2 Quote
94RF1146 Posted October 15 Author Posted October 15 Weather was nice this weekend, so more test & tune... I was getting interference from the spark plug wire (50 000V coils), ended up spiraling ss wire around the ssw and grounding them. Works. Making some serious boost! Base fuel pressure is 54psi. Cheers, M Quote
Gixer1460 Posted October 15 Posted October 15 You've got to take off 100kpa (atmospheric pressure) to see what boost is. Why such a high static fuel pressure? Have you not got a boost compensated FPR? Quote
94RF1146 Posted October 15 Author Posted October 15 I do have a 1:1 fuel pressure regulator. I'm going to the dyno soon, will have my friend familiar with the MaxxEcu tuning it. I can't do much testing in 1st gear, I run out of real estate. We'll get it ready for next season. Lots to learn with these things... Quote
94RF1146 Posted October 29 Author Posted October 29 (edited) After looking at the log from my last test session, I decided to go with 2 x AEM 400 LPH fuel pump in parallel. At 45 psi my lamba was .92. I want at at .78-.82. Motor wasn't hurt because the intake charge is so cold. Then dyno. M. Edited October 29 by 94RF1146 Quote
Gixer1460 Posted October 29 Posted October 29 (edited) I know of no bike that has required two fuel pumps! Dunno what a Bosch 044 pumps but is usually a go-to even with it's big amp draw! Just checked 270-300L/HR sufficient for 500hp Edited October 29 by Gixer1460 extra words Quote
94RF1146 Posted October 31 Author Posted October 31 On 10/29/2024 at 11:09 AM, Gixer1460 said: I know of no bike that has required two fuel pumps! Dunno what a Bosch 044 pumps but is usually a go-to even with it's big amp draw! Just checked 270-300L/HR sufficient for 500hp A friend with a 3576 on e85 had to go with mechanical pump after 641hp. I run 2 batteries, won't be a problem. I'll set up the ecu so the second pump kick in at 30psi. M. Quote
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