dr_thirsty Posted November 19, 2021 Posted November 19, 2021 (edited) I am fully modernizing my 1996 GSX-R1100WT. But I am keeping the important things old school. It will have carbs and the rest will be modified in some way or another. I want to update the alternator, it is big heavy and I have already had the seal/damper thingy break on me once already. I want to use a modern alternator and separate the reg/req from the rest. Has anyone done something similar or interested in a discussion about possible ways forward? Edited November 19, 2021 by dr_thirsty Quote
Gixer1460 Posted November 19, 2021 Posted November 19, 2021 Simple answer - No! You are stuck with the drive gears off the starter clutch pack, the crankcase mounting is fairly single type only, fits affair and as std., the integrated electrics are ok ie. they don't have a particular reputation for failing unlike the earlier AC engines! Smaller 'race' type alternators have been belt driven off the end of the crank but its a lot of engineering, faffing about and they look goddam awful even with the best Rose Tinted glasses! Whether a crank mounted alternator could be made to work is debatable - IMO the limited rpm of the crank would limit alt. output as they are normally geared to spin at 2 or 3x engine rpm! 1 Quote
wombat258 Posted November 28, 2021 Posted November 28, 2021 Nothing wrong with std alternator unless you are drawing extra load for EFI. You can use the earlier series (1993) alternator and drive assembly to remove the rubber bush, or alternatively you can machine an aluminium bush to replace the rubber. 1 Quote
dr_thirsty Posted November 29, 2021 Author Posted November 29, 2021 Not planning to run anything off the end of the crank. I did think of using some of the early type parts to get rid of the rubber bush etc. The idea I have, is to mount a crank style generator to the original position. This assuming the speed of rotation is enough, I will design a housing to house the generator windings and a new shaft with rotor. With the electronics being moved out of the housing, I should have an assembly 1/4 to 1/3 of the length and half the weight. compared to original. Output will need to be similar to the original, as I am not going to go to EFI, but need some room for accessories (lithium battery charging etc.). I am completely re-wiring to whole bike, original wiring has let me down a few times and I want to simplify the whole thing, with Motogadget stuff. The only thing original on my bike is the frame and engine, but they have not been completely left alone either. Quote
Joseph Posted November 29, 2021 Posted November 29, 2021 Can't see how using motogagdet micro electronics is going to simplify stuff. When that goes wrong (and it will) it won't be the case of changing a fuse on the side of the road. And you won't be at home either, sod's law systematically applies to electrical failures A GSXR and the like are so simple, there is nothing to them, it's basic basics as far as electrics and equipment goes 2 Quote
dr_thirsty Posted November 29, 2021 Author Posted November 29, 2021 Are you speaking your opinion or your experience? Motogadget uses much less wiring, it offers diagnostics and I have been stuck on the side of the road with my "simple" original wiring many times . Not to mention nothing on my bike is in its original position, now it is even more simple and I know exactly where every wire goes and I it is all waterproof etc. Quote
Joseph Posted November 29, 2021 Posted November 29, 2021 It's not a hard or long job to do a full rewire on a GSXR with a custom system. That and relocating the accessories on a custom bike is done on a daily basis on this forum nothing worth mentioning there If you got stuck by your original system, electricity is electricity, it could be down to poor condition or fabrication of it. Motocabbage still needs all the wires to the lights, still needs wires to the dash and dash lights, still needs to wire the ECU, the brake switches, the neutral and oil and tank senders etc etc ? What wiring does it save you having to do ? (Genuine question) Quote
dr_thirsty Posted November 29, 2021 Author Posted November 29, 2021 Sure the condition of some of the original connectors/wire etc. were not in good condition. Like a break inside the ignition switch, that was hard to diagnose on the side of the road. Lights that would turn off when the bike was warm. Hence the initial need to redo the old. I now have keyless ignition, I have added custom switches (programmed the way I want), alarm, blue tooth connectivity. Simplified wiring because it works like a relay, only one fuse, no resistors need to be added for LEDs etc. It makes the bike a little bit smarter and the wiring is just less. If you wire the tail, one earth and one wire for each function. I use LED tail light and it has 2 wires going to it instead of 6. Do that everywhere and then you know what I mean. Quote
Madb Posted December 3, 2021 Posted December 3, 2021 I don't understand what you are trying to achieve. I have had by bike since 2005/6 And not really had anything to write home about the electrics. Nowt wrong with standard generator. Just seems an Un-necessarily expensive mod, But, If you like modifying stuff, One shall look forward to see how it all turns out. 1 Quote
dr_thirsty Posted December 3, 2021 Author Posted December 3, 2021 Yes I think you nailed it, I like to unnecessarily modify things. I used to do a lot of miles on it and prior to me buying it, the history is limited. Thus it has been used day in and out, rain/snow or shine, even through the winter. The oem electrics are ok and simple enough, but I need to redo some of it anyway, plus with repairs needed and additions etc. I want to make it last. It is my ultimate bike and I could of bought a new one, but where is the fun in that? My bike originally a US model, not California luckily. It 36mm carbs and was totally original. Now only the engine internals are still as I bought it and the main frame too. I am basically building what I consider the ultimate GSX-R1100W. 1 Quote
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