MeanBean49
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Posts posted by MeanBean49
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Ive put K-series arms in this way, s-rad are pretty similar. I use slingshot shock and linkage and make adjustable dog bones.
The biggest issur is the 10mm different sprocket iffset between slingshot and s-rad rear wheels. I ended up machining down sprocket carrier and offsetting front sprocket a bit to get it all in line.
Anyone that tells you you can get the chain run straight and the wheel central without doing anything is wrong.
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3 hours ago, riversbikes said:
You guys might be on to something here --- went back to all stock, but with the Holeshot supplied pilot jet (35). I tried the stock needle at 1 clip then 2 clips richer (down to the richest possible), but wouldn't rev at all. Less/little black smoke! Put the HS needles in on the leanest setting. Screws now 3.5 turns out. Even better. Took it for a short spin, and understandably wouldn't take anything past 1/2 throttle with the 102.5 mains. Will go to the bike shop and see if they have any... 120s to start. Now that everything is FI, my local shop isnt stocking many mains anymore, may have to order some in. Should I try something smaller? 115s first?
You can get jets for bandits on eblag in virtually any size. Theres a seller that does 5 for £10 worth getting a few sizes
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Ive always found jet kits supply way too big jets And the needles virtually pointless as are the air correctors/drilling the slides.
You can get just as good a setup ysing standard needles and jetting to suit. I also would never expect anything to be plug and play. Always use a dyno for setup.
Personally I would ditch the jet kit. Go back to stock needles and stick some 120 mains in. Shouldnt be far off at that I wouldnt think on a stock motor. Then get it on a dyno
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2 hours ago, vizman said:
both @minx s' 7-fiddys almost out of storage for @MeanBean49 to collect
Lovely job, let the new project comence :-)
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11 hours ago, R1guy said:
That RF went well....
Yeah thats Nolan, he rides well, that RF is pretyy trick too.
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Bit of footage from my Spondon. Bit rusty myself but still went pretty well.
Unuseable my arse :-)
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Quick check nobodies mentioned yet thats worth a quick 20 seconds before you waste hours bleeding to no avail.
Put a finger on your disc next to the caliper and pull the brake. Repeat on the other disc. If you feel the disc moving then its quite likely your discs have gone dished.
You can have perfectly bled brakes but they stay spongy because all the lever travel is taken up straightening the disc up before the pads can bite. When you let the lever go the disc acts like a spring and pushes pistons back in too far.
Ive had this problem loads of times on gsxr's
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13 hours ago, fatblokeonbandit said:
First Im an idiot for pressing the wrong button but you get the idea...
How many forum members/famous people can you spot
Ace. :-) forgot to turn mine on for that session. Picks up well even after having to shut off
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Whats the capacity of the float bowls? Im wondering if they are pretty small your maybe never going to get them to work properly, with the fuel pressure they are maybe just overfillung at the slightest opening of the floats.
But yeah as said above, carbs have to be 100% all the time. I take mine off every month and check them over, float heights have always got higher. If i leave them any longer its starts running too rich and flooding
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1 hour ago, 370steve said:
you looked to be going well, bike sounds awesome
Cheers, I am getting to grips with it more and more, legs are in bits today
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Had a decent chat with him, nice bloke. Had a cracking day too, bike was ace fun, getting the hang of riding it on track now
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1 hour ago, Wagola said:
Hi , when you say 'get the fittings off Torques' , I guess that is a supplier ? Do you have the full name of the company/supplier ? many thanks
Yeah they sell on Eblag too.
Just re-read my post. Should say JJC race and rally too
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9 hours ago, Wagola said:
Jeeezzz, just got a quote for a head cooler kit and it comes out at £722 ! What the f*ck ! Is this right ??? Any body out there who knows a supplier that's not trying to have my pants down !!??
See my post about what bits you need and where to get them.
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Just now, Duckndive said:
that's what happens when I use me phone to read posts.....
.....New Eyes needed.........
I have trouble typing. 95% of things i post i end up editing to correct stuff my fat fingers have messed up
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2 hours ago, Duckndive said:
Excellent info
But why use the H,D spring with the lock up
Who mentioned Hd spring with lockup?
Hd spring and standard plates up to 150 bhp
Standard clutch with lockup for my turbo setup
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Genuine suzuki plates and h/d spring has always been fine for me up to 150bhp
Standard everything apart from lockup clutch has been fine for me for the last 4 years with 280bhp and 200lbs ft. Doing loads of miles, speed trials and heavy track use
As for feel, use a ducati clutch master with h/d spring, makes the clutch mega light and really nice to use.
Only problems ive had is the basket strating to come loose on the rivets that hold it onto the primary, basket itself has been fine, and because of the torque, i have to have a lot of weight on the lockup, bike wants to creep a bit if i try to get away to quick
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1 hour ago, Wagola said:
Hi. Pretty much the way I have decided to go after the wisdom imparted here. I keep hearing about 'head coolers'. I get what is meant by them but where do I get one from ??
Easier to just buy the adaptors and make one up. Jkc race and rally do 10 row extra wide coolers for about £30, 2m of braided hose off Eblag is £20 and then you can get the fittings of Torques, you need all AN8 1x straight, 4x 90 degree, 2x rocker fittings, 1x oil take off fitting and a 3 way splitter, and the i got some 2.5 inch aluminium angle to make a bracket. About £100 all in I think
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For me a great road motor would be 1216cc, portred locknut head and gsxr cams on slotted sprockets, wouldnt go mad on upping compression too much, I would go for a nice full akra or yoshi and a set of rs36's. Ignition wise dyna coil minis and i cant recomend Ignitech's highly enough, way better than over priced dyna rubbish. Pingel tap and a good oil cooler plus a head cooler is a good idea too. Keeping them cool is key to a good reliable tuned motor.
For a real ultimate road motor though you cant beat a turbo :-)
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1 hour ago, fatblokeonbandit said:
Have you had your email instructions yet Rob???
Yes mate, you? If not pm me your email and will forward em on
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2 hours ago, fatblokeonbandit said:
Yup me again, wobbling round on the Bandit trying to keep out of the way of Mr bean on his guided missile....
And of course taking part in the Moped parade/race lunch time.
Guided is a loose term, im more giving it suggestions and hoping it agrees.
Im taking my pit bike out in the parade, looks like a rite laugh
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3 hours ago, El Gringo said:
I'll pick up another set this weekend. The ones i've got in it now are effectively new but it's worth a go
Done it a few times, brand new plugs, not even manged to get bike running before its killed them
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As above, I will be up watching on saturday and riding the Spondon on sunday, see if I can manage not to kill it this time
Anyone else heading up?
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9 hours ago, El Gringo said:
Right, this thing is trying my patience once again,
Tried upping the mixture, 2.5 turns and then 3.5 turns out, still no joy, although it is coughing and burbling it just won't run on and catch on all cylinders.
Tried it with the fuel pump running to raise the fuel level in the float bowl, no difference. Tried upping the fuel pressure a little, no difference.
What effect would the lower float heights have on the idle/starter circuit - i know in theory the lower it is the leaner the mixture.
*Edit - I may try going back up a bit on the float heights as a matter of course - a logical reversal of the process
I could not have picked a worse bike to try turbo-ing!
Might want new plugs. They are absolute bastards for killing plugs after just the slightest hint of flooding/running too rich. They look like they are sparking nice and strong but bike wont start. Had it a gew times.
Not using iridium plugs are you? They are even worse than standard
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I would reckon its just a bit too lean on the idle mixture.
Srad swingarm in slingy
in Oil Cooled
Posted
Angle of the dog bones has no effect. Angle of linkage and swingarm does, as does the distance fron swingarm pivot to where dog bones attatch to swingarm, S-rad, k-series and slingshots are virtually same. Making shorter dog bones that go underneath not on top wont have any effect if the swingarm angle and linkage stay the same/similar.
Certainly had no issues whatsoever when i do this on my slingshot race bikes