MeanBean49
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Posts posted by MeanBean49
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With my td04 before i put the VF23 on I had 110 mains in and ran 2.5psi base. Float heights set at 16mm.
I would say main jet is too big. It does have an effect like a rev limiter if your too lean or too rich.
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That is really cool, glad to see it progressing again mate
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14 hours ago, dupersunc said:
I think it's just where he's missed the apex.
Apex, they dont concern me anymore, just managing to get it stopped and around the corner at all is achievement enough :-)
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On 30/09/2017 at 12:36 PM, Madb said:
loving the pics! awesome! last pic. touch understeer or just the angle of pic?
Just a angle of the pic I think. Wasnt noticing any understeer
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Few pics from Anglesey Trackday. Cracking little circuit, not much room to open the bike up properly but still went well.
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Little gas blow torch is good for aluminium bits, its baked on at a really high temperature anyway when coated to start with.
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My mate owns a powder coaters, he always told me bit of fire is the best way to get it off, little gas lamp over it for a few seconds, comes peeling off
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On 08/09/2017 at 8:39 AM, Paulm said:
That's Robs bike isn't it Rob?Don't forget to have a chat with him about Spa.
Had a quick chat. He said definately doable if we want. They are finalising dates over the next few months. Will be able to get it sorted :-)
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At Anglesey this weekend, possibly my last track outing for the year. Hopefully the rain will clear.
As an added bonus looks like im going to be trusted to have a go on this pukka ex Mick Grant Harris :-)
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10 minutes ago, dupersunc said:
Yeah yeah. I've read all that. I've drilled the shaft. Again that wasn't as difficult as the net would have you believe.
Not really after opinions and hearsay here thanks guys. Just someone withactual experience of doing this conversion.
Ace. You tell em. Haha
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Have you got a dump valve, might not be sealing properly, more boost, more loss, richers fueling
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I have also put an application in. Fingers crossed the organisers think having 2 turbo gsxr's racing would be worth seeing.
Go winged hammers stupid branch
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Just swapping to busa pistons drops tge compression, its about ideal for turbo use.
Only need spacer plate if you use the busa rods as well
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If your running stock pistonsi would be willing to bet the rings are fine, more likely is the ring lands on the piston have colapsed. Best easy fiix is get a set of gen1 busa pistons and rebore. Good for a reliable 12psi then
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Bigger mains, less base pressure might help. Will richen up the top end and lean out the bottom. What base pressure are you at?
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2 hours ago, SBK1000 said:
Are you thinking of doing a swing arm swap???
Nice swingarms those, put one in my HUC. Only ball ache is sorting the 10mm difference in sprocket offset, wheel/sprocket carrier machining, reversed sprocket, spacer behind front sprocket..... ace fun
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3 hours ago, markfoggy said:
Hmmm, so TPS for Mickey T's?
Anybody got any solutions?
Also I'm never very clear what Ignition trigger plate that you could use for an Ignitech, do they actually make one?
I really like the ElectronikSasche unit, cause it has a LED on it to find TDC. It is expensive though for a non-programmable box and is not listed for Oil Boilers, but I believe that it will work if you get a GS kit.
CPS is the perfect solution, but digging a hole in a cam and fitting a magnet with Epoxy would make me too paranoid.
Ignitech uses standard ignition pickup and rotor, or any aftermarket one you have.
Use a set of bandit 1200 carbs with TPS and you can programe a full 3D ignition map using rpm and tps to control ignition advance/retard.
It can also power 2 outputs that can switch by whatever parameter you want them to.
Really good bits of kit
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Aweaome, welcome to the team.
Suzuki mounted for Pendine next year?
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Aye (as long as I can persuade the other half)
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You can manage it. Would be no fun if it wasnt last minute.com
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Pretty much any oil cooled cdi will work on any oil cooled motor. Slingshot CDI's are the easiest to get working though. You can even use slabside pickup with them (just use one half of it) if you have a spark and are not even getting a bang it sounds like no fuel is getting through. If you get the odd pop and bang it could be 1+4 & 2+3 are wired wrong way round
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No problems here
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23 hours ago, no class said:
this is a pic I pulled from the net (slingy with busa arm) ......the "leverage" action of the lower mounted bones will have a harder time as suspension travel increases .........the black lines mimic where the "top" mounted bones would be .....leverage will be easier as suspension travel increases . both ways will work....unfortunately one will be less efficient ......so using the stock slingy shock and pivot link that was designed to be top mounted on the swingarm by Suzuki engineers ......and re-positioning the bones underneath the arm .....changes the geometry of how it was designed to work .
No it really doesnt. This picture doesnt represent what im saying at all. Changing the length of those dog bones alters the position of the swingarm, thats what changes the geometry.
Dog bones that are longer or shorter have no real effect if the position of the mount on the swingarm is the same distance from the swingarm pivot. The forces applied are exactly the same.
Like pulling a weight off the floor with a 0.5 m rope or a 1m rope, the force to lift the weight is the same
Highest CR on an 1127 low boost (190bhp)
in Forced Induction
Posted
Depends if you can resist turning the boost up. I couldnt.