MeanBean49
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Posts posted by MeanBean49
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Why dont you know the motor size? Gobbing off without reading the content of the thread first? No suprises there
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Who cares what it makes! Its a pretty dick comment to slate it as a shite install before its even done anything.
A good standard one on a dyno makes about 55bhp at the wheel. So to get 100bhp is virtually double that. No mean feat. And it should be applauded for even working at all, going his own way and doing somthing new.
Id be happy with a 100hp 400. Be ace fun.
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Ok cool. Give me a shout when there available. Ive got a set of the Gurls blouse Nissins somewhere
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23 minutes ago, dupersunc said:
The 600 forks are 45mm, I may have a set of 43mm j/k forks spare soon.
I had the same thought with the rubber mounts, I intend to try that next year.
Oh @Rene EFEI run the clip ons about 30mm below the to yoke on my slabbies'. What do I win?
You win Curvature of the spine. :-) lol
What sort of pennies would you be after for forks and yokes?
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29 minutes ago, dupersunc said:
Oh @Hawky I've got 750j and L forks as well as 600 srad and 600k2 forks in the garage I'll measure up the extended lengths of them tonight if that's any help.
You got some 600 forks and yokes spare? Are they 43mm?
Back on the frame thing. I never got round to try it but i reckon swapping the front rubber mounts for solid ally ones would make the motor a stressed member and help stop headstock twisting
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2 minutes ago, Rene EFE said:
Same then. You must be more agile than me
Or just a glutton for punishment
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21 minutes ago, dupersunc said:
Sounds familiar. Charlies2 at Cadwell was where I first noticed it, tyre pressure helped a bit, but it reared it's head again big time at Jerez feels like the frame or forks flexing and releasing. I put it down to my Eblag suspension set-up.
I've since spoken to a very quick ex F1 and Superbike racer who did a one off race in 2005 on a very trick 1216 motored 750rrk who described the same thing.
Ah well i'm building up a 750k chassis to put my 1216 motor in to race next year. I'll be paying lots of attention to the engine mounts to get them shimmed as best I can. I've done the same on my slabbie too, to try and improve things.
Mate of mine did a lot of bracing on his slingy frame, filled some bits round the headstock and added gusseting in from the swingarm mount upwards. Said it made a difference
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12 minutes ago, Rene EFE said:
Did you use the original clipons with this setup? I think if we had highers bars on our bike, it would've been fine; it handled great, I just didn't physically fit
I used the k1 clip ons under the yokes
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1 hour ago, dupersunc said:
Did you get the front tyre hoping when you really leaned on the front on entry in fast corners?
Used to get it a bit. Was always worst at padock hill at brands.
What was more noticeable was the bike telling me i was close to the limit on really fast stuff, like corrams at Snett, start to get a gentle cycling of the bars, which was the headstock twisting slightly, dont go any quicker indication.
Was the main reason I swapped to the Spondon. But to be honest I think a slabby frame is better than a slingy
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Im pretty sure k1 750 usd's are the same length. I ran them in my race bike with the back end jacked up a fair way too. Had no problems with it. Handled ace, enough that the frame became the limiting factor
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Same as 750 and k-serires. Bolt straight in with slingy bottom bearing and funky size top bearing that you can get for about £20 from marksman
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Think im broken. I kinda like it
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23 minutes ago, Kid Kearsley said:
Is this in reference to over reving?
My friend runs a 750 cdi on his turbo and does several 180mph wheelies with no issue.
I have an ignitech and my limiter is set to 11500rpm on a gsxr11 based engine. I often purposely bash it off the limiter (because im a child) with no issue's.
Raced my 1216 for a whole season circuit racing on a 750 cdi with no problems too.
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No mate. Pickup and trigger is pretty much like a playing card pegged to your forks clicking on spokes each time they pass.
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5 minutes ago, Kid Kearsley said:
Sorry to jump on here. On my new engine im building (originally a b12) i plan to run a gsxr 11 pickup and rotor to work with my ignitech.
Now when i come to time the engine up, bearing in mind it will have adjustable cam wheels. Should i time the motor up with the bandit pickup plate and rotor then change the backing plate and pickup to gsxr 1100. Or should i be ok timing the motor with the gsxr 11 plate and rotor?
Cheers
Doesnt matter which mate. TDC is the same place on em both. Ignitech will work with bandit or gsxr pickups as well. Make no difference whatsoever which one you use
You can also use twin pickups with 1127/bandit cdi's. You just only use one pickup and leave the other redundant.
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Im not on about the shaft or anything engine side.
Iy you put a ruler from the centre of the wheel to the inside face of the rear sprocket. There about 10mm difference between oil cooled wheels and srad/k-series ones.
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Donjuan, what have you done to correct the 10mm difference in rear sprocket offset?
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Im probably gona be there, hopefully be busy all weekend racing tho
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16 hours ago, OX88 said:
Is that a 5.5" rim or a 6"?
180 or 190 rubber? Just took delivery of a complete 01-03 swingarm myself, and want to fit it to my '88 gsxr750
6" rim wont really work. Unless you ignore the 10mm offset difference and have either the sprocket or wheel alignment wrong.
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38's on a tuned motor when i was messing about gave better mid range and top end power.
The 36's were a bit better at the bottom end but not massively. And nowhere near as good as a set of CV's. Thats just the nature of not having a vaccume slide.
I would just stick with 38's and try some long inlet trumpets, that should improve mid range
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Oh yeah. I used standard slingshot shock linkage and made adjustable dog bones to fit the later arms. Shock also needed re-springing due to the angle of dog bones changing and needing a different spring rate
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Ive put a k4 arm in a slingshot and a k5 arm in a HUC frame (same dimensions as slingy) just had to have top hat/bearing spacers machined up to make spacing correct and shrink the bolt hole size down to match slingy swingarm bolt. If your going to use a later wheel its worth noting that the sprocket offset is 10mm different to oil cooled wheels. Its a faff machining sprocket carriers, spacing front sprockets and running dished rear sprockets backwards to get the wheel central and the chain run correct. Otherwise you end up with either an out of centre wheel of the issue shown above.
With the k5 arm i used slingshot wheel and made new chain adjuster blocks that spaced down spindle size so i clild use slingshot wheel and spindle. Was loads easier
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2 hours ago, El Gringo said:
Heading over to Lee Motorcycles at Ledbury, it's about an hour away but it's the closest one to us as far as I know.
Gave him a ring beforehand and explained what it was, what state it was in and what i wanted to achieve, he was happy to give it a run.
He's the guy Ben at Valespeed uses, so if it's good enough for the UKs fastest 600 diversion it's good enough for me!
Cool. I use a couple of dynos, main thing is finding one where there happy to have you stoid in by the bike watching whats going on.
Only thing I find is to aim for 12-12.5:1 rather than 13:1. Turbos seem to like to be bit richer than N/a stuff. Dyno operators not used to turbos might steer towards a bit leaner than nessasary
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Where you taking it for dyno?
What will 2018 hold for WH?
in OSS Racers
Posted
I will be hopefully upgrading to fuel injection and going back to Pendine in september, i may even have a go at Moto Time Attack.
Looking at building a gsxr turbo and having a go at sand/dirt/speedway racing just for a laugh.
And will be racing in the Endurance legends 4hr race, all being well and if Yoshijohnny pulls his finger out will be suzuki mounted