MeanBean49
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Posts posted by MeanBean49
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Might have to look out for some Triumph wheels, talon sprocket back to front and would be pretty much in line.
I really cant understand how people can think you can keep a straight chain run and a wheel central when theres 10mm difference from center to sprocket face.
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57 minutes ago, CockneyRick said:
Jeez, they're not!
I wanted K wheel but could not move it enough, so with the Busa i could.
Do i have to go get measurements to prove you wrong?
Please do. Pretty sure Srad boys wouldnt be bolting k series rear wheels straight in otherwise.
The ones in my garage all measure the same 110mm ish from wheel center to inside of sprocket face
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15 minutes ago, CockneyRick said:
I'm on about the centre hub width. Easier to centre a Busa than the K series. I know, i've done it on 3 bikes now.
I cant see how its any more difficult at all. They are the same dimensions
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33 minutes ago, CockneyRick said:
K series rear wheels have a very wide hub, easier to fit a 6" Busa rear if that's what you want.
Fronts might be lighter for newer models but don't run a mech speedo
K series and busa hubs/sprocket carriers are the same offset. Same as S-rads too. No easier to fit one or the other.
Still have the same 10mm difference in sprocket offset to sort out or just ignore and tell everyone its straight lol
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Its a bit like a Top Gear challenge with bikes. Can we get a Suzuki together in time, with the little old Kawasaki there as the failure option. :-)
Should be an ace laugh whatever were on
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Simple thing to do is take the origional wheel/sprocket carrier and measure from the centre of the wheel to the inside face of the sprocket.
Iirc oil cooled stuff is about 100mm
And later k series stuff is about 110mm
Fairly certain the hubs on later 5.5 and 6 are the same, only difference is rim width. With the 5.5 you can get away with getting it down to around 100mm by whatever means and still have clearence from the rim/tyre
The 6" is a pain in the arse and not really worth bothering with. Stick a 180/60 on the 5.5.
Any stories of it all just bolted in and was straight with no mods is basically rubbish.
Using the later arms, i found you can get the wheel central by measuring and making your top hat swingarm spacers the right sizes to do it. Thhen youu can leave brake side alone completely. I take 5mm off the sprocket carrier/wheel and inner spacer, run a talon sprocket back to front and a 2mm spacer behind front sprocket. Then i just make up a 5mm longer spacer for the outside between swingarm and sprocket carrier.
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1 hour ago, El Gringo said:
Aye, i thought that's where we were going with it, working on the theory it's too rich and blowing the sparks out?! You mentioned you went from 145s to 137.5s a bit further up the page
Yeah, sorry about that, was delicious
Yeah sorry mate, minds gone to jelly over crimbo
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1 hour ago, El Gringo said:
Not as yet, got it striped down ready for the smaller main jets and then i decided to sit down and eat a lot of cheese and drink a lot of port over Christmas!
Will be ordering up some jets in the next week or so, so hopefully back on the dyno to test the theory sometime in January
Smaller mains?
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There is nothing that bolts straight in really. Later wheels have bigger spindles and different rear sprocket offset. K-series wheels are a lot lighter and can be made to fit. Just not a simple swap job.
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12 minutes ago, colinworth79 said:
I just find easier to time up . Not really a problem my bandit been ok for 14 years
Ahh ok. I always find the opposite, and hy vo is stronger and less prone to stretching
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19 hours ago, colinworth79 said:
if I was building another motor , bandit 1200 cases as double roller output bearing on gearbox , bandit 1200 barrel as thickest liner as standard and 1127 crank as to avoid hi vo cam chain . Rods titanium falcon ones .
Why would you avoid the hy-vo chain?
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Should do. Same engine apart from the stupid air re-circulation crap on mk2 afaik
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You just need to dremmel little half moon bits on the standard plastic doughnuts. Or if your careful dremel out the raised bits at the bottom of the slides
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13 minutes ago, El Gringo said:
Worth a try mate. You can get the same thing if its too small on the mains too.Have a look at the plugs, might help, then again this can be miss leading too, if its that rich its not firing/burning you wont get the black soot you would expect. 6k is right about where you would expect it to be fully on the main jet
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31 minutes ago, El Gringo said:
Ladies and Jellyspoons drum roll please.......................................
The final figure was...................................
A whopping..............................
22.4hp
Fuck knows what was going on but it got to 6.5K rpm and hit a wall, on every run, in pretty much the same place.
Just signed off and wouldn't pull through it, didn't sound like it was missing but that was as much as it would do.
Tried taping up the filter, tried increasing the fuel pressure - as soon as it got to about 0.4bar on the boost gauge it gave up
On the plus side, minimal oil leakage from the scavenge pump and drain, none really from the turbo itself, no fuel leaks, no coolant leaks and it didn't grenade (not that it got anywhere near having chance to!)
So, next step, i've got another CDI to try just incase it's that, then to go back through and check all the hoses etc
Not the great result we wanted but not a disaster!
Normally means too big on the mains. The 1127/1157 motors are really sensitive to jetting. Mine runs spot on with 137.5's in it, go to 145's and hits a brick wall at 6k. Sounds fine not under load. Try riding/dyno'ing and it wont go.
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Isnt the rear lower engine bolt a different size too? Either drill the frame holes larger or sleeve the motor down. Stops the mounts cracking.
It could be slingshots that this was different on not slabbys mind
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What Gixer1460 said.
I get a bit of a drip from mine after it sits for a bit after running, i just cycle the oil pump for a bit after letting it sit for a bit. A lot of people put check valves in the feed line to help. Personally im happy for the odd drip or bit of smoke on startup, shows in getting oil to the turbo.
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1 hour ago, dupersunc said:
Bollocks to mid range, just rev the fuckers.
Never got the whole my 1200cc bike has no midrange thing.
Everything feels gutless after riding mine. Definately doesnt suffer even with the gsxr cams lol
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Yeah the 750 cams are really good. They boost the midrange by about 5bhp too. Only place ive found you loose a bit is around 2-4000k and its only marginal.
Just seems like youve lost midrange because theres a bigger gain at the top end so you can chase revs instead of the power flattening off.
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1100 cams arent much different to bandit ones at all really.
750 short stroke (dot head) cams are the ones to have. Well worth doing.
Imho much better than doing the whole dot head swap. You get about 10bhp doing the cams or 15bhp swapping the head but hav to sort out the sitting at a different angle and fouling the fuel tap.
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1 hour ago, El Gringo said:
Ah ha, in which case i shall let you know when i'm venturing North to see the Brother Cross
Ace. I will pop in :-)
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1 minute ago, El Gringo said:
I couldn't possibly reveal my sources (but yes
)
The ignition cover with the oil feed point and machined pistons came from Ian
Him and Jim are a top pair of blokes, they're 500's are properly special bits of kit
Yeah. They are pretty special. Only 10 mins from my house. Use their dyno now and again
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1 minute ago, El Gringo said:
Ladies & Jelly spoons! Handbags away please!
It'll be what it'll be - i have it on good authority that the clutch will probably go south around the 80hp mark - on the plus side the same source does a nice lockup conversion
I've re booked for next Friday so it's a nice delayed gratification, and hopefully a pleasant earlier Chrimble present
I'm currently awaiting the arrival of some HD clutch springs to try and help the cause
After the initial results i shall have plans underway for motor Mk2 with a few interesting ideas
Cool.
You been speaking to the Cross Customs Boys? Cheeky low comp 500cc motor?
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Do yourself a favour and read through the entire post. Think you will see nothing but constructive coment from me.
Failing to read the post, not knowing it is a 400, leaving a shitty comment then trying to pass it off as open speculation and just joining in with the fun. Nobodys buying it. Why not keep the negativity to yourself?
2018 Donnington Classic Endurance
in OSS Racers
Posted
I wont fail, but im not building the Suzuki option. Lol