Dezza

Does the bike in the picture above have adjustable yokes/headstock? I'm puzzled as to why the forks aren't parallel to the headstock?

The YTS that designed the tank ensured they held the same amount in gallons, it's just the US gallons are smaller than proper gallons. Probably

Remove the seats and side panels and maybe the tank, and then the cdi's location should be pretty obvious. Or follow the cable from the ignition pick-up on the right side of the engine

What bike are the caliper and mc from? I remember some Aprilia Milles had a recall because the rear brakes didn't work very well and the m/c s were replaced with smaller bore items. I also had a Ducati, which all have those 2 pot Brembos as the OEM rear brake, and that was a shite brake too.

Kev made the filler cap ring I had welded into my fancy new tank.

Sure no problem.

My old (previously leaky) Spondon ally tank may fit . It'll definitely be wide enough. It doesn't fit on my subframe anymore so I'm not going to be needing it. It's a fairly nice wall ornament and will never be more than that to me. My guess though is unless you're really lucky, you may have to bite-the-bullet and have a tank made to fit the frame.

Brembo do several different size rear master cylinders some of which look externally almost identical apart from the numbers stamped on them. All now have 40mm mounting hole spacings. All else being equal, the smaller the master cylinder bore, the more travel at the pedal (least wooden feel) and the best braking power. An 11mm bore mc is the smallest they do. I had to replace my Brembo rear master cylinder and going from a 12mm to an 11mm bore definitely improved the feel and performance of the rear brake (small Discacciati caliper). It went from being 'totally shite' to just 'shite' though .

Do you have a bearing on the end of the pushrod or just a pushrod that's 'long enough?' I ask as the last time I had a similar problem (not an OSS bike), clutch drag when the engine was hot but OK when cold, was when the clutch pushrod was inadvertently spinning with the clutch when the engine was running. This also spun the slave cylinder when the clutch was used and heated the fluid up, buggering up the clutch actuation when the fluid got really hot. It took months of repeated bleeding and faffing about with it to finally work out what was wrong and fix it (new bearing in the clutch pressure plate (different design to OSS bikes)).

I tried an old ZZR1100 (C) sprocket on an oil cooled Suzuki once and it didn't fit. The splines were different. The sprockets for the ZZR-C model are offset as OEM. The ZZR-D model sprockets are flat and use a spacer behind the sprocket with a slightly longer output shaft. This was because some C model bikes didn't have the gearbox sprockets securely fitted at the factory (in USA) causing several accidents. Kawasaki had to issue a recall on all ZZR-1100Cs. Ask me how I know this....

Call the navy. If they need any spare anchors for their aircraft carriers you can flog them those ZZR wheels .

Similar to most non-Q reg kit frame bikes then

Details asap. What else came with it, e.g. the subframe and tank?