Mike711

https://www.allensperformance.co.uk/carb-kit/alternative-throttle-return-spring-chart/

To revive an old thread, I spoke to Allens Performance who import Mikuni and they said there are 2 return springs on RS carbs and I could remove one or there are also different locating pegs for the springs that will lead to a lighter action. I haven't tried either mod as my carbs are still with Allens having a 30yr service but I will be experimenting when they come back.

I had a 1000 motor in my 750 then swapped it to an 1100ET & can confirm the head & barrels can be removed in situ without touching engine mounts.

If you have enough reserve travel TWM make a 26mm assy or Accossato make one in 24mm.

What measurement do you have from the lever pivot bolt to the cable nipple centre/centre? There are clutch lever assemblies available down to 24mm, they use more lever travel but do give a much lighter feel.

BTW if anyone was interested I can confirm it's possible to remove the head & barrels with the engine in situ.

Thanks, yes the forks/wheels may have an impact on yours, mine is 1100 Katana forks/wheels/ SA etc & is rock steady but sits too low. I am thinking of CB900F shocks which are approx 30mm longer and have the fork lower fitting, I'll see if they make it twitchy & possibly add the fork extensions later.

Does your 711 have a std swingarm or an 1100 unit? If 1100 did you go with longer than std & did it make any difference to stability?

Yes I think the front will also need to be raised hence the question about fork extenders although I wil try it with just the shocks first, if it quickens up the steering without compromising stability the front might be ok as it is. The clip ons are Tomasselli swan necks fitted upside down to lift the riding position, they won't fit below the yoke. Thanks.

So my issue is I have a GS711, 1978 750 frame with 1980 1100 Kat engine/swingarm/forks/wheels. The swingarm is longer than the 750 one & with the std length shocks results in less ground clearance, the forks are dropped through the yokes by about 4cm to allow clips ons to mount above the yoke. Moving the clip ons under the yoke isn't an option, there's no clearance to the fairing and I don't want to alter the riding position. So I am looking at longer shocks and have seen YSS units that look okish & won't break the bank, has anyone used them & can comment good or bad about performance, quaility etc? My second idea is to fit fork extenders to allow the forks to go back where they should be, does anyone in OSS know where I might be able to get such things made or is there a longer stanchion from another model such as an L that would fit the Kat fork sliders? Thanks in advance.

I had a Q/A fitted with 34s & lasted 1/2 hour before giving up & going back to a std set up. It's now prefectly comfortable & I can live with slightly longer throttle action.

I did search but can't find anything specific. Are OE clutch friction plates the best bet for a stock engine? Thanks.

What ratio (distance from pivot centre to plunger centre) is the Hel cylinder, it's probably 16 or 18? I have used Accossato 19 x 18 (edit, it was 19 x 20 ) cylinders on ZZR1400s & Vmaxs both of which struggle with anything less.

Is your chain loose?

Have you checked the coils are 3 ohm?

Many thanks, just the info I needed.

My 1100et needs a rebore so can anyone who's tried both give their opinion on if it's worth the extra grief finding EFE barrels etc to put a 1230 in over 1170 on std barrels? Do the EFE barrels drop straight into the ET crankcase? It's just for road use but extra low down oomph is always welcome!

I just removed the extra brake lines & blocked off the thread in the anti dive units, works fine.

Buyer beware!

That brings back memories of many a Bol D'Or in the 80s & 90's, hope it went well :-)

Has the Idle screw come loose?

Looks like the seal is handed but it's fairly well perished anyway so have ordered a Chinesium one, I may see if I can extricate the seal from it to keep the OE cap.

Good idea, will try it.

It's not listed as a spare part but has anyone found a suitable seal? I could buy a Chinese knock off and use the seal but don't know if they're exactly the same.

If you can get it to misfire when rigged up with an auxilliary fuel tank you can gently pull the plug cap away from the plug (using plastic grips unless you want a shocking experience) slightly extending the gap between plug & cap increases resistance which in turn makes a fatter spark, if your misfire clears up you may well have a duff cap/HT lead but it can also be things like low compression or poor fueling. You can eliminate the plug cap by sticking a paper clip up the HT lead & twisting it round the thread of the plug.