Jump to content

Blubber

Moderators
  • Posts

    3,217
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Blubber

  1. 6 hours ago, Gunarh said:

    Does anyone have the wiring diagram for a 1998 suzuki bandit 1200

    FFS...

    Please tell me you did not just register so you could ask this?

     

    :mr711:

    Quick intro to OSS:

    If we use / buy bandits, they mostly end up as donor bikes to upgrade 1980's era bikes.

    Other options on OSS;  modify the shit out of them, race them, turbo them, put NOS om them and such.

    Now that is clear,  my advice would be this:

    Show us your project and you will eventually get a wiring diagram.

    Or use the bandit owners club / Google to find a downloadable version. 

    HTH

    • Like 3
  2. 22 minutes ago, TonyGee said:

    thats the way :tu   theirs only one bandit and thats a mk1, and EVERYONE on here will agree :S :D           wait for it !!!!!  :S

    You realise we can give you warning points for talking shite like that? 

    xD

     

     

     

    No....seriously :stop:

     

     

     

     

     

    :P

    • Like 2
  3. Yes , it has been asked before.

    The general consensus is that the stock airbox is the best option.

    If not possible the most favourable option appears to be to use the oem airbox rubbers with a foam type filter.

    Yes, you need to go up in main jet size.

    Yes, you need to book dyno time / a rolling road operator to get a decent air / fuel ratio.

    To change the jets you need to remove the float bowl to be able to access them for removal and installation. That's loosen and tighten 16 JIS ( not Philips)  screws made out of cheese . I think it is safe to say... No: Stop being lazy and remove the carbs to be able to work on them in a decent manner.

    No, we can not guess the final outcome of the jet size.

     

    Disclaimer... fuel is flameable. Only dick around with it in a well ventilated area.

    • Like 1
  4. 10 hours ago, Neveragain55 said:

    That was scary, you nailed it.....

    We tried every way under heaven to drill for the pickup but the shaft is hardened steel and we just sank thousands into the motor rebuilding it.

    Rather than destroy the shaft we just backed off....

    I'm ok with using the clocks from the 250 bandit.

    The wheel from that bike is 17 inches and the wheel on my bike is also 17 inches, so all we have to do is mount the cable actuator to my front wheel so it can drive the cable, and the rest is easy.

    The look is close enough to the 2001 Bandit 1200 clocks, and at least it looks better than those 89 GSXR110 "lopsided" clocks.

    Swear to God, I have no idea why Suzuki would make such an ugly setup.

     

                                                                                                                             Thanks for the replies.......

    So it is just about getting the speed sensor to work?

    It just needs 4 pulses per revolution of the output shaft.

    1883594359_sensorrotor.JPG.0093654c0edfad51c0433a000e24cf09.JPG

     

    You need something to mimic that rotor and get a castelated nut / castle nut or a slotted nut.  

     

    1290222363_sensorNUTdraft.thumb.JPG.7452e95d1ebc61664a3e8d5619304b92.JPG

    i modified a standard EFE sprocket nut to work on my EFE engine with GSXR1000 clocks/ gauges 

    The modification i made was to weld the new style rotor on the OEM EFE nut with a spacer to clear the output shaft thread and get into the sensor range. 

    Sadly no pictures of it anymore -  in 2008 i used PB to host my pics and i closed that account. 

    HTH

    • Like 1
  5. 2 hours ago, SATANSAM said:

    Hi B,

    The only thing that is "weird" is the compression (all 90PSI except the 3rd cylinder that reads bout 110PSI)...But loox like it's the compression tester as the other bike reads very underneath too.

    Compression ok? NO

    Valve clearance ok? YES

    Valve lift / caml obe  ok? Sorry but What does this mean? The valve lift ok...

    Have you checked the carb top for cracks or leaks? / is the o-ring installed ( if applicable )? NO LIEAKS OR CRACKS

    Is the carb diaphragm pinched, ruptures or even a pinhole->easiliy overlooked - OK, BUT I'LL PUT A TORCH BEHIND IN THE DARK.

    If you connect vacuumgage 3 on 4.. do you get the same results? - SAME READINGS ON 3 AND 4 (3 POOR VACUUM)

    Have you bench sync the carbs prior to this result? YES

    It should have read "Valve lift / cam lobes ok" .  

    A worn camshaft lobe or camshaft profile will result in a weird running bike because the valve will open less. 

     

    Happy hunting ;)

    • Like 1
  6. I have -recently- not gone through your previous attempts to fix this but here are a few pointers:

    Compression ok?

    Valve clearance ok?

    Valve lift / caml obe  ok?

    Have you checked the carb top for cracks or leaks? / is the o-ring installed ( if applicable )?

    Is the carb diaphragm pinched, ruptures or even a pinhole->easiliy overlooked

    If you connect vacuumgage 3 on 4.. do you get the same results?

    Have you bench sync the carbs prior to this result?

     

    HTH to keep you sane

    • Like 1
  7. Based on the engine year ( and your forum name ) you are looking for a new crankshaft for a 1135CC EF aka a GS1150.

    The ES designation might fool others and might have you ending up with a 1075cc version.

    - Are you looking for a EU delivery address to forward it again or advice on a forwarding service?

     

    If you are asking for the part from a member, this would need to go in the Marketplace which you can not access yet due to your post count.

  8. In the link R1GUY posted, the current seller had the intention on cleaning up the welds on the head stock.

    It doesnt look that happened.

    From what i see it has no registrations of paperwork.

    Without that... it is track day use only.

    I think that would put me off. 

     

    I doubt getting it registered as a road bike is easy otherwise it would have it already

×
×
  • Create New...