mikeyd

Thanks for the info VJ!

Had some questions about this motor if anyone has some knowledge with them. I tried fitting the starter clutch cover to my 1127 motor and the holes didn't line up - I thought this was a production 1127 motor/engine cases? Also, if the cases are identical, can you just unbolt the shaft drive housing and use the cases for chain drive?

What about Bandit 1250 throttle bodies and ecu, or is the spacing way off?

I've found that a 88-97 katana 600 rear caliper and hangar works well and bolted up to the torque arm easily, it's the caliper with a molded in bolt hole. It is dual piston.

Beautiful outcome - it looks like the bodywork that should have come on that bike. And $700 is cheap!

Way cheaper! and is probably going to be more resolution?

Think we all forgot to mention about cutting off steering stops on lower tree - at least on the Gsxr 1000. Had to have a nub welded on in the center. I'll try and find a pic.

What a tough learning curve this summer! I had no idea carbon fiber conducted electricity and had a meltdown of some of my electronics. Had to change the ecu and injectors. Went with a MaxxECU and made a big difference! I know an ecu doesn't make more hp but however more efficient this thing is now, it made the same power with 5 lbs less boost! Huge improvement. Didn't like having to spend the $$$ but am super happy with the modern tech over that old Accel from the 90's. Am able to add more sensors and datalog my runs. Had to have a machine shop make a billet steel trigger wheel for me that cost $250 usd. It's a 24t that we removed 3 teeth off of(started with 2 but wasn't enough resolution at high rpm). Used a single stock pickup off of a 91 Gsxr 1100. The Maxx street ecu is the best deal going right now I think.Will have some more pics soon. If there's enough interest in the trigger wheel, the shop saved the program, maybe I will have a few more made. It is exact to stock dimensions and has the nut end too so you can still rotate the motor.

I'm giving the KOSO a try. So far so good, and has a peak recall but not much time on it to see how it holds up.

03-04 Gsxr 1000 front end. I had to make a sleeve to use the top tree on the 87 stem, but you can just use a water-cooled top tree tom avoid that.

And these guys are right, Dyna is becoming obsolete, but its still newer than my motorcycle.

Nick, I use 2001 gsxr 600 c.o.p.'s. 1.4 A per stick x2 = 2.8A. well within Dyna 2000 specs. There is a wiring diagram somewhere on this forum to show you how to wire it in.

105/108 seems to be working good with my turbo. Got those #'s from more than one turbo gsxr guy. NOS guys i know run more like 110/110-112

The R1 add on brace is just pure genius! And looks awesome too.

Lets see some pics of the setup.

More pics please!

I,m wondering too. Do the throttle bodies interchange?

Yes TiZiK, web cams. they do them for APE. I know, the initial cost sucks! but if you never have to mess with them ever again - it balances out. And they were a few bucks cheaper going directly to them instead of APE.

I dig the way they trimmed the tail up on it - looks really clean. Quick question guys , all the slabbies i've seen has a flush tail light lens (at least here in the states) is that tail light sticking out a euro model thing?

The turbo return dumps into the clutch cover spacer - that's how most of them are. Lol- dumping super hot oil onto an already hot clutch. I played with a few different size jets and went with the biggest one i could before it starts to blow by the turbo bearing. Actually, this turbo has been going a couple years now - no problems. I've heard most race guys rebuild them at the end of every race season. Rebuilding isn't too bad, wonder if a ball bearing turbo lasts a lot longer?

TiZiK, yes dry blocked. Pasis, no problems with excessive oil in the turbo but there is a restrictor in the line. And the turbo has a pretty big return with a scavenge pump so it never smokes. Reinhoud, What a Duh! moment! never thought to enlarge the holes! Some guys said to use tapered Busa studs though. yes oil feed out of valve cover to cams. But now the case bore is big enough that its scraping the left side galley (super thin you can almost see light through it) so i didn't want any suprises later. Arttu, Thanks for the info, never thought that would cause a problem and yes the bike lags off the line. Gixer1460, I never followed the less oil makes more power?less windage- i run 5 1/2 quarts. The oil pressure going to zero when cutting the throttle i heard is a common problem with a lot of different bikes that race, that happened with the standard oem oil pressure jets. Never considered the heat thing but the bike is doing a burnout, a run, and a drive back to the pits with a fan on it until the next run. Since i redid the timing (starts at 34 and retards 9 degrees) and degreed the cams it ran a lot cooler. I had the weirdest problem though - it would eat crank bearings and the rod bearings would be fine? Usually its opposite. It does have a billet crank, if that matters. I'm waiting to get out this season with the new coated bearings (from Calico coatings) to see if that makes a difference. Thanks for all the info guys, you gave me a lot to watch out for. Glad i joined this site!

Yeah, TiZiK, the oil pan ones are all the same - make sure you have two different lengths (2 different valves) Because my understanding is all the oil cooled valves are the same gsxr 750/1100, Katana 600/750/1100 So if you have one that doesn't fit maybe you have two of the same? I'm not sure which feeds which but just having one brings oil preesure to around 77 and having two was doubling that for me. Gixer1460, What's the main reason for bearing failure? I'm doing anything i can to keep this motor together. These valves are not allowing as much bleed-off. Do i need more oil pressure because i tapped into the main galley to feed the turbo,? Do i need them to get more oil into the rod bearings faster because it has to go through the crank first? does the higher pressure blow clutch material more efficiently out of my bearings to save them? Did i need a lot more oil to the top end? Does it save my motor when i chop the throttle at the end of of run and the oil pressure used to go to zero? does it cool the motor better because i used to be able to cook dinner on it after a run. All i know is that Dick Speed and a couple of his customers went years without any bearing failures and thats on Nitrous motors. It's going to be hard to judge now because this is the first time i also had all the bearings coated. I'll let you know what happens in a couple months!

High 8's in 1/4 mile - never went above 23 lbs of boost yet and thats with my fat ass on it (240#) I will be out at the track a lot more this season. Leblowski, read my post above -not to sure about the turbo anymore. those numbers were @ 31-32 lbs of boost looking for the ever elusive 400hp mark. Whats cool is i switched to a cometic MLS head gasket this winter - (no more copper and no more o-ringed block) Had the o ring grooves decked out of the block and resurfaced the head, (I had no idea how important this was! )Anyway with old setup (copper+o ring) i would blow the head gasket out at anything approaching 30 lbs of boost, now pushed it to 32 lbs and no problems at all. And cometic told me it is reusable although i don't think i would. Keep in mind this bike has shitty suspension and snowflake lock up. If i can find a few extra thousand $$$ this year, i need to do a swingarm, shock, gsxr 1000 front end, R1 rims, MTC gen 2 multi stage clutch, etc. I should have bought a boat! Then, after that, and another year, new turbo, new ecu, new header because the turbo sits too low and the oil return line is dangerously close to the ground (cant lower the bike much more).

Those are the ones i have. It was something like 160 psi at idle-cold. Super crazy pressure! If you use both of them, you have to let the bike warm up for like 10 minutes before giving it gas or else it blows the oil filter out. I pulled the oil pan one and sent it back to Dick (having the luxury of being a few towns over) to have a lighter spring put in because it was just too much presure. If i had a LSR bike or street racer or something it wouldn't be a big deal but for drag racing i want as little heat as possible. But with just the one in the cases i'm seeing 78 psi - no more eating bearings! I have taken apart the one and it's a bigger ball bearing, bigger spring and different size flow hole and tapped/machined for the cap. If it was easy everyone would make them - worth the money in piece of mind and saved bearings alone. P.S. i'm running 10w40.