gs7_11

One of the brass spigots would be the vacuum for the tap, probably the middle one. The other 2 will be Float bowl vents, each one linked to 2 float bowls.

Jet sizes should all be the same.....about 115 with stock airbox IIRC. Bigger if you've got no airbox of course. Are those GS1000 carbs even? GS1000 has a cable operated choke.

I've got a Metmachex from a GSX750 which is about 25mm longer. The bike is much more stable than the standard bike, but how much of that is the swinger, and how much is the slabby wheels and forks, I don't know as I changed them at the same time.

The bottom ends and gearboxes are tough, so unless you're having any problems, there's no need to strip it if all the seals are OK. Check the rods for side play, and small end wear. Take the sump off, clean it and check for errant metal.

Bob, Cruzin Image do piston sets, 0.5mm and 1.0mm oversize. USD140.00. I used them in my 1000S with no problems and have a big bore kit for my GS425 waiting to go in. Precision Engine Services in Elgin will do the rebore, was £50 a hole when I got my 1000S done. You don't want to be taking it to bits again, do you?

I've got YSS on my 7/11 and also on my 425. Love them. They do err on the comfort side, but with the roads up here that's welcome. A mate bought some for his SR500 on my rec and they're great too. All of the above are their budget cheapos, so nothing fancy. Hagon on the other hand have been patchy in my experience...sometimes great, other times terrible. I went through months of sending shocks an springs back and forward to them trying to find a good set. very helpful, but ultimately, everything they had was too harsh.

Um, you know there's a world outside the US, right? Apparently not. The second generation, with 16 valves, were called GSX in most countries. Including the UK, where both I and the original poster are from. Also, there's a clue in the bit where I say "Show me an 8 valve GS750......"

Hah, I knew it! No, not really. That's a sleeved down 850 for the Japanese Market, and vanishingly rare. As you well know. You know, if you want to be adversarial all the time, feel free. I'm out.

Really? Show me an 8 valve GS750 with CVs.

Set here, not cheap though: GS550 Carbs

The GS750 only had slide carbs, so they won't fit.

GS7/11 1085cc, VM28ss, V&H pipe, stock 750 airbox, stock jetting, 90bhp rear wheel.

Don't drill the airbox. A standard bike with all standard bits will do 125mph. I used a stock 750 airbox on my 7/11 with a 1085 engine, 28mm carbs and V&H pipes......140mph! Fix the problem, don't bypass it. Possibly a mixture problem, not airflow. Float heights? Leaky float valves? Blocked air jets in carbs? Edit: assuming nothing daft wrong with airbox.

Have you done a compression test? Ignition timing and advance checked with strobe? Cam timing; 100% sure its correct? Jetting will be near enough at standard, with standard airbox and V&H. Fuel flow through filter is worth checking. If it won't go past 70 in top, that's a major issue, not something minor. Even a rough GS750 will go over 100 without too much trouble.

I forget what mine is, but I matched up the original final drive ratio, then upped it a bit. I used 530 sprockets......the online JT catalogue shows you what's available in a particular fitting type. Then I used a 6mm spacer behind the front sprocket and machined 15mm off the GSXR sprocket carrier to get alignment. I've only got a 150 tyre though.

I put a set in my GS1000S a few years back and it had done 3000 miles with no probs before I sold it. To my eye, quality looked as good as OE, and the (very experienced) guy who did my rebore gave them a nod and said 'Mmmm'. High praise from a cynical old school engineer!

Tried turning it over to use the other side as the sealing face? Or has it disintegrated?

I have a GS 7/11 with a 1085cc GS1000 engine. I believe the 1000 and 1100 engines are the same size. The frames aren't the same size, but I can get my cylinder head off by loosening the engine mounts and lowering the lump on to the frame rails.

All I've ever done is set the screws to the factory settings and balanced them. Works every time for me. BUT.......this assumes you don't have any air leaks, flooding carbs, blocked air drillings, tight valves, dodgy HT leads etc. Point is, if it doesn't idle correctly, it's probably NOT the idle adjustment. (Again assuming the screws are set to the factory settings).

I had a VF750F in 86/87 The problem on that bike was that the cam caps were not line-bored. Gurls blouse thought they could mayke them precisely enough without line boring. They were wrong. Some bikes were fine, others weren't

No.

Ask VF750 owners what happens with non-line bored cam caps. Lottery time!

Thanks, I like it! It's red though if you mean this one:

The head has larger inlet ports for CV carbs, as did the last chain drive model, the 1980 ET. That might be different, depending on which GS1000 you have. Other than that, nothing. I've built quite a few GS1000 motors using 1000G top ends. My current bike has a chain drive bottom end, with shafty top end, including CV carbs and airbox.

Nope.