gs7_11

The GS750 has a smaller steering stem than most bigger/better bikes, including the GS1000, so if you want to change the yokes, you'll at least need to change stems. With which stem and bearings?

I wouldn't say no problems! Easy enough compared with some though. Biggest problem is finding one.

I'd say stick with plan A, tune up the 750. And I speak as someone with a 1085 engined GS750! If you get a 1000/1100 engine, it will be tired and need a full rebuild and you'll be looking at a fair old outlay, even just for rings, hone, gaskets and seals. 1000 lumps aren't cheap any more, nor easy to find. Anything with GS1000 on it is pricey, whereas 750 parts are more common and cheaper. That said, my 7/11 walks all over my standard GS1000, which is like riding an oil tanker in comparison! Surprising difference in size and feel.

Welcome! Saw this on the FB group. I've got one too.

Or new o rings from here: http://www.cycleorings.com

You want one of these: https://rover.Eblag.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.Eblag.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F382124477439

Just don't hacksaw the frame. Then one day, the bike might be of use to someone who might actually, you know, ride it.

No.

I've never rejetted GS1000 carbs for any pipe; they are fine on standard. Having 97.5 mains is likely to be better though if anything for a more open pipe. I've only rejetted for modded/removed airboxes. My advice on that is: don't. Stock jetting and settings, spotless carbs, balance and off you rattle! You're confusing float height and float bowl fuel level. You only need a steel rule or calipers to set the float height, as per the manual. Don't worry about the actual fuel level unless there's an obvious issue. Set the float height and move on. Edit: I can post a pic of the manual page with the settings if it helps.

First thing is to check that the clutch is working as advertised. I hear a bit about GS 'man clutches' but I've got 2 and I don't think they're particularly heavy. It pays to make sure the cable routing is right, with no unnecessary binding of the cable to the frame etc. A new cable helps, and I'd recommend a genuine cable. Expensive, but I've found pattern cables stiffer and wear out quicker. Also, my 115bhp GS1000 had a totally standard clutch. Fine for road use, never slipped.

"Beard trim for table 2....."

You can't, that's the problem. The reason why someone's done that to your tap is because the only 50mm taps are the stupid "on or prime, screwdriver only, no off position" ones that Suzuki went to for half a year. The only other option is a Pingel. If you can think of a tap that fits and has off and reserve positions, is be happy to hear it!

Yes, shouldn't have slots. The washer should form a seal between the screw head and the body of the tap. Sounds like you've got the wrong tap. Two types, 44mm and 50mm spacing, depending on year for the GS1000. Get the right tap!

You should have bonded washers on those screws to prevent leaks. If it's all assembled correctly, there's no leak path.

I've used that method before, but as I said, it only happens under load, so can't really do that while riding!

I haven't, but I think I will. Not much else left to look at now.

We've all done it!

Thanks, good points. Yes, I've replaced the starter clutch and rotor. It was starting to get a bit 'bangy', so figuring it might be on it's last legs I popped on the rotor/starter clutch from my 1000S (which was stripped down, and I know had a brand new starter clutch 1500 miles ago). That made no difference. (Not only that, the starter clutch housing wasn't too bad, so I've refitted that on to the 1000S and it's working fine on that for now, maybe not having the 1085 kit is helping). Also, the bike had a new sprocket carrier bearing a couple of years back, so it isn't that. Cheers anyway. The trouble with these engines is the finning makes everything seem to come from the same place; a noisy clutch can seem like the top end. And this noise only occurs under load, so I can't get my head down there with a screwdriver. I get the feeling that SEP did something wrong with the crank when they rebuilt and welded it, after it spun on the dyno. Now it has a standard tune engine it doesn't need a welded crank so it'll be next winter's job to rebuild the engine with a decent used crank, I think,

The base gasket goes round the outside of the sleeves. The bore doesn't affect it.

Yep. Never anything in there. Also, makes good power, doesn't use much oil, no smoke. Oh well, will carry on living with it. Might get round to a full rebuild one day and find out! I have a spare head and block here ready, and is probably get another crank to be safe. One day.

Yeah, carbs have been balanced, unbalanced, replaced and rebalanced many times over the years, makes no difference to this . Didn't think it would be pistons, no logical reason really. Its not clutch or alternator rotor/starter clutch either....those have been changed. Beginning to think it's the crank, but can't be too serious... would have started getting worse by now, surely?

My 1085 GS1000 engine knocks a bit under load. Worse when cold, sounds a bit like a big end, but lighter. I don't think it's detonation. Its done it for years, (15+, 20,000 miles), various carbs and cams. So it can't be anything too serious. Someone once said it might be the Wiseco pistons slapping. Anyone ever noticed anything similar? I'm not concerned, just curious.

Thanks. I have 1100 ones here, will try and measure.

No, I meant the earlier 16 valve engine was TSCC. ALL the 16 valve engines are TSCC, and the 16 valve GSX started in 1980. Your bike would have always had a TSCC engine, even before it had a later engine fitted..... .....is my point!