gs7_11

If you search, you can find screw settings for that bike or a similar one that will get the bike running. They might even be in the manual! In my experience, set everything up as per the manual and you will be fine. Make sure you can prove every drilling is clear by either blowing compressed air through, or spraying carb cleaner through. Don't forget any float bowl drillings. Do a basic service on the bike, as per THE MANUAL. Most manuals will then have a trouble shooting section, start with that.

As Clint Eastwood said; "A man's gotta know his limitations." You're trying to learn motorcycle mechanics from the ground up in a few days. Took most of us here years. We can't teach you over the internet. You're where I was when I was 15, and I started with a Gurls blouse 50. Stop trying to run before you can crawl.

Don't over think it too much. Put the M cyl on and try it. You might be surprised how little difference it makes in some cases. I've fitted an extra disc and caliper on a couple of occasions, without changing the M cyl, and it's been fine. In one case, BMW R65 (sorry...), the feel was much better with the "wrong" M cyl.

Err, what?

A steering damper won't help. It may well make things worse, just making the oscillation lower frequency.

What's the point? If it runs with starter spray, it's not an ignition problem, it points to fuelling. It'll never be right till the carbs have been cleaned. Sounds like the cold start circuit is blocked, which is very common. As has been said.

Sounds like it's a GSX400, or GS400 in the US. The GSX400 superseded the GS450, which superseded the GS425, which superseded the GS400. I believe the 450 then came back again, before evolving into the GS500, which was also available in some countries as a smaller version, the GS400! The GSX400 became an 8 valve head, and also there was a change to a plain bearing crank at some point.

Strip your calipers down, clean them and rebuild them with new seals, and possibly new pistons if they're corroded badly enough. You're confusing terminology (amongst other things). Your rear brake is a twin-piston single caliper, and your front brake is a dual disc setup, with single piston, sliding calipers.

Hagon are brilliant and very underrated. For instance they're one of the few makers who have a different spring for GS1000 and GS750. When I got some recently for my 7/11, standard GS750 ones were too hard, so after a phone call they sent me a set of softer springs and thicker spacers to experiment with. No charge, just send back the ones I didn't need. Ended up with 18kg springs instead of 20kg, and thick top retainers. Suspension is now way better than it has ever been. Previously had Konis and Ohlins.

FFS

Oh dear.

Yes, but the short spring has the spacer as well. That's standard. So what was the issue then? Just no air pressure?

Make sure you've got the right carbs first, whatever you do....

That's what I was thinking, or no air pressure.

Measure the outlet (engine) side... that should be 32mm if they are BS32's.

Chain drive GS1000 Air forks?

Damage like that is repairable by specialists. However, if you can find a good head and cams, it might be easier and cheaper.

I wouldn't be in too much if a hurry to replace the coils. It's notoriously hard to measure low resistances accurately, and those readings don't seem too far out. Also you had a problem with each coil, but also a correct running cylinder with each coil, so it wouldn't be the ignitor or coil that is the fault. Try connecting everything up correctly first, see how it runs.

If he's connected the HT leads up by that parts drawing, there's your answer, fishbulb.

Here you go, things have changed! Simply Bearings list a 48 x 30 bearing now: https://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/p43720/48KS/30K-Narrow-Section-Steering-Head-Set-Taper-Roller-Bearing-30x48x13mm/product_info.html Wish they'd had that when I did mine!

Just checked, and the CBR1000 and GS1000 (etc) have the same outer bearing diameters, 47 top and 55 bottom. The bottom is 55 x 30 x 17 in both cases. The GS750 on the other hand has a 48 x 27 x 14 bottom bearing. The GS750 headstock was bit feeble and the same size as the 550, and lots of other small/medium sized Suzukis of the time. The solution I used was to fit the 750 stem into the Slabby yolks I wanted to use, with a turned up bush. Also have a spacer at the top, so I can use a 750 bearing set.

What did you do then to get them to fit the GS750 frames?

That doesn't show the 78-79 8 valve GS750 as being available for that conversion. (They show the 1980 'GS'750, but they mean GSX). It would be great if you could just do it with a bearing swap! When I did mine (admittedly 20 years ago) there wasn't a bearing available. The 750 steering head is too small.

I've got one as a winter bike. I really like it. Interesting engine that uses SACS so maybe it qualifies as oil-cooled? Also has twin carbs, one for each inlet port and twin plugs, side by side. It's surprisingly nippy on anything apart from wide open fast roads, i.e round here it's as quick as you need, and more comfortable.

Interesting! Must be a very slim bearing........or a thin stem for a modern bike?