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yyt

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Everything posted by yyt

  1. I'll try to help as I been there.. Check out the way I fixed the problem of the spring, I don't think you'll find this spring at a local spring shop. the spring is very delicate brass spring. You can first check the fuel valve (ball & spring) for proper operation first, by filling the bottom bowel with fuel and pressing on the plunger. Fuel should squirt out of the nozzle outlet while depressing the plunger fills the plunger volume through the bottom valve, the fuel level at the bottom bowl should decrease. I really think the the accelerator pump is not the cause of the fuel leakage, all the accelerator system (intake valve, plunger and nozzle valve) are all under the fuel level and can't cause leaks in my opinion.
  2. yyt

    oil leak!

    Thanks, I had a feeling its ok as I thought but wasn't sure from about 20 years ago that oil came out when opening the signal generator cover. Partially puts my mind to rest, now I'll keep searching for the problem. When starting the engine the #3 exhaust is dead cold, without chock and I've checked the ignition, its ok. I guess I'll take off the carbs and check the #3 carb. Slow system pilot air-way and needle.
  3. yyt

    oil leak!

    I'm not sure if its ok or not! On a slabby 750 - 86 When I removed the signal generator cover about 100cc oil came out, turning manually the crank there is a small drip of oil and starting the engine oil is spitting out from behind the signal generator. Is that normal or i need to replace the oil seal behind? Is there an oil seal? anyone knows the dimensions? Took every-thing apart and refurbished except the engine. I think this is the reason the engine has difficulty to start.
  4. As for the fuel tap, you can easily test it. just connect the outlet to an empty can, apply vacuum to the diaphragm and see if the fuel flows. The floats valves are a little harder. I got some aftermarket, just more needles and also original from japan.. had problems with all. I made a test set-up to find out from all the valves and housings the "PP" (perfect pair).
  5. I would just check the pressure for a start. I think the oil pump is the heart of oil boilers, in the near future i'm planning on adding a fixed gauge next to instruments panel for pressure n temp. Haven't tested mine yet but i got a pressure gauge of e-bay and planning to check at next maintenance.
  6. Hope this helps.. Should fit your tank, has one outlet n ON/Off/RES. Just replace o-rings n it works great.
  7. If all was well before, best to check the 2 things that make it tick - fuel & ignition. You can check the electrical system by starting the engine with the plugs out and looking to see if there is a spark on each plug. With the fuel system, first check bowel fuel level, with the choke fully opened the engine should give some life indication. Tell us how it goes..
  8. Obviously it's not a factory standard, but my harness is all original and never has been tampered with. I guess a certain batch had this problem, It was odd to me all the voltage differences all around when I had alternator problems. I think the best indication to see if there is a problem is to check the voltage at the fuse box, if it's the same as the batt I guess it's OK.
  9. I agree this thread might get messy, but I'll write what I think. I don't think this is the solution but rather ignores the symptoms. The IC regulator should compensate for the changing electrical load rather than keep charging voltage of the battery. From my last month experience, I had to change the starter carbon bushes, than the alternator IC regulator I checked the voltage all around and found out there is a significant voltage drop on the main 12v line. As you will see the main problem was in the harness, where the main 12v line wasn't connected together! the lines were just put next to each-other and wrapped with insulating tape. Interesting that the orange lines where bundled together good with brass thing. I can't say all Suzuki's harnesses are bad, but for me this was the solution. Give it think, than if you like you delete this to clean this thread.
  10. Before I'll have my say, I would like to make sure this is what you made: * pic deleted because containing inaccurate info *
  11. ENGINE PLATE MOUNT NO.3 - 41931-27A00 Seems to be rare part to find, at all sites its Not Available .. Any one here knows where to find or if someone with a CNC makes them? For a Slabby 750 - 86
  12. Written about this a long time ago..
  13. Thaaaaanks Rick, Your answer really pissed me in a good way.. I spent all last week digging trying to find the right regulator, trying to figure out all the wiring to get it right and fit the damn thing in. Just now i found this combination: https://www.carmo.nl/userfiles/file/plaatjes/CARRG251 Voltage regulator carmo.pdf I ran to my bike, took off the back housing..... and all was good.. its 14.5V. Its past midnight here, so tomorrow i'll clear some space between the housing n the regulator. So again.. Thanks Rick,
  14. I need to replace my slabby's alternator regulator, any one know the spec. of the IC regulator or where to get one? I tried to replace it with universal regulator, it worked according to the test set up in the manual but when i started the engine the voltage went up to +16V so i stopped the engine.
  15. I also had leaking problems with cheaper CARBURETOR REPAIR SET . I have tested each the needle valve and found them to be fine, so the only other option was the O-ring supplied in the set. Apparently the O-ring supplied is 1.5mm diameter so I replaced it with viton 1.9mm diameter and its good now.
  16. Welcome, Will be great to see the bride.. The fitting is the air vent.
  17. I have made a set-up to test the output of the accelerator nozzles. With the original size of push-rod / plunger (2.5-3mm movement of plunger) I measured about 0.4cc for 10 throttle openings, which equals to 0.04cc for each squirt. I just shortened the push-rods by 3mm (5.5-6mm movement of plunger-out of 8mm) from 74mm to 71mm. I measured about 1.1cc for 10 throttle openings' which equals to 1.1cc for each squirt. Almost 3 times more fuel. I think its enough for me at this stage. I'll inform how it feels after rides..
  18. I'll finalize my work on the carbs, hopefully soon the next post on carbs will be after the first ride. As for the accelerator nozzle, bottom o-ring and top rubber, you can't find them in the Suzuki carbs parts catalogue. Even at " Robinsons ", they were very polite but couldn't help beyond the parts list which is missing these parts. I found the top rubbers in Mikuni (TM33 carbs) : TM29/14 Rubber plug, Pump Nozzle. The bottom o-rings I just got form e-bay : Viton - wire diameter:1mm/OD:4mm. Wire D On the Accelerator pump, I'll write my findings at : Is my rod too long? Slabby Accelerator pump question
  19. I would check first the throttle valves , it'll be easy with your K/N filters. If fully closed, check the choke plungers, I had all my plastic starter plungers holder cracked. replaced them with brass ones. also you can try the squirt test.. squirt some fuel around the manifolds (each at a time) to see if there is any rpm (sound) change. The choke is my best guess.
  20. Couldn't of described it better
  21. I was planning to continue this subject on my VM29's post, but then in my searches I found this post.. If I understand correctly, you added 6mm to the 1.5mm you got at first. so now the plunger can have a 7.5mm travel down, and you're happy with the improvement.. Did i get it right? I also measured the plunger potential movement and was puzzled why out of 8mm of plunger depth only about 3mm are actually used opening to full throttle. My bike is not ready yet, so I cannot ride,make a change and feel the difference. Just finished assembling the carbs. I'm planning to simply change the rods to shorter ones (instead of drilling the plunger). Hope to share my experience ASP. Appreciate if you share your impression .
  22. That's the point.. it does not show the accelerator nozzle, bottom o-ring and top rubber :-(
  23. He guys, I really need your help here.. For some reason when looking for Mikuni parts I can't find VM29. The VM28 or VM30 are different types. The closest is the TM33-8012 carb ( Suzuki DR350 ). The parts : (35)- N124.63 , (37)-TM29/14
  24. Need some help with the nozzle's bottom O-ring and the upper rubber part numbers. They don't show on the parts list of the VM29.
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