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I always order from China coz its cheaper and easy to order that's why it takes a month :-( Locally its pain in the ass to find.. half a day on the phone, than half a day to get there, than they tell you they thought they have it but they misunderstood. I always prefer Viton for fuel applications, so at e-bay i write "viton" and the diameter I need. For the tap: The gap is: O.D-17.2mm / I.D.- 14mm = 3.2/2 = 1.6mm A rough calculation of the O-ring diameter is 20-30% bigger for squashing depending on application. So 1.9 -2.0 mm diameter is good and outer diameter of 17mm will be fine. For the flange of the tap I also did a rough estimate and your (Duncan's) estimate of about 39mm outer diameter is good. The grove is 2.10mm, so 2.5mm O-ring diameter is good. In Viton I found only 2.4 Ø and 40mm outer diameter.

Anyway I measured the Tap's O-ring gaps and ordered from e-bay: Viton 1.9mm O-Ring- O.D. 17mm. Viton 2.4mm O-Ring- O.D. 40mm. Will inform when they will arrive, it takes about a month..

I"m not sure its the same size. Mine doesn't have the vacuum connection, just a tap (on/off/res) and only 1 hose going to the carbs. That repair kit is for the diaphragm Carbs.

Anyone knows the O-ring sizes of the fuel tap? In the Suzuki parts it comes as a complete Tap ( FUEL TAP (F G MODEL) (44300-27A00) ). But i'm going to just replace the 2 O-rings. I can sort of figure out the size (the oval will be from a round seal) and was hoping did it before me. Or any one knows a kit that fits?

This is from the Suzuki manual:

Thanx.. but for some reason all the manuals for the slabby 750 86 are missing the Rear Suspension - Swingarm & Shock absorber, Dissasembly, Inspection and Reassembly

Just did that I don't have impact so i recommend my way.. First i warmed the bottom bolt with (60-80W) soldering iron for about 20 minutes till all gets warm enough to loosen the loctite. For the other end I got a M16 Nut and glued it to a 10mm socket (you can weld to 2 together), i used 3M Epoxy. Than I recommend holding the bottom bolt with an Allen key and opening from the top with the wrench. Good luck.. Actually I was surprised how easy It was this way.

Some advice needed.. For my Ohlins TR043 with the 120 N/mm Spring i"m looking for Ohlins spring code: 01093-24 ( 150mm total length and rate 80 N/mm) I want the 80 N/mm coz i'm about 65kg (depending on dinner). I found Ohlins spring of 160 total length and rate 80 N/mm. Will that work? If I move up the Spring Preload Adjuster by 10mm?

Thanx for reply but I understand I need Spring Free length150 mm. The 1091 is 160mm free length so i need the 1093 with the 80 N/mm

Any one know someone selling Ohlins spring code: 01093-24? Now there is only bad looking used from the US. I don't mind paying 75$ shipping but at least the spring should look good. I rather have the 80N/mm than the 85, but I'll take what is available.

Great looking Bike. Hope in a year i will finish mine. I guess the white rimes suit your bike more than black. Who do i have to sleep with to get the OSS sticker like you have on your windshield?

Thanks for knocking some sense to me. It was like.. when i got the Ohlins.. it was "ohh my precious" Wasn't easy getting it. Any way.. got the bit which end is down n up. Now with the N/mm bit.. I weigh about 65Kg so for sure i need the 80N/mm spring, I always felt the rear holding better with someone at the back. No way i will find this Ohlins spring 01093-24 here in Israel, and at Eblag its 100$ just shipping. (p.s. what is Eblag ? Excuse my Ignorance) I was wondering whether i could use the original shock spring. Ex. diameter / wire diameter / length original 80mm 11.6mm 175mm Ohlins 81mm 12mm 140mm (167mm if moved to end setting) I'll get it painted Yellow Do you think it might work?

Should i buy Ohlins (about 80 N/mm) or use the spring from original shock? Which side up should the shock be? ( Rebound Adjuster up or down?)

oohhh.. i got "Houston we got a problem" in my mind. Well i couldn't find any higher spec. shock and it should to be much better than the original. The Discontinued Ohlins STX 46 Hypersport , NOW.. i see is 80 N/mm. Is it possible to open the Spring Preload Adjuster to its max level to make it less stiff? (or add weights to the rear?) Should i change the spring with the original? will that do the job? Got to find a solution

A few years back i got this Ohlins TR043 which was the closest to the original measurements - 290.5mm length/61mm stroke (TR043 is 290mmlength/56mm stroke). The Ohlins TR043 is intended for the Triumph Street Triple 675. I was certain that it would be much better than the original as its OHLINS, the size is about the same and the weight of the bike is about the same. On my R 750-86 the Rebound Adjuster is on top side of while on the Triumph is on bottom side. I got all confused and got no idea how the shock should be

Here in Israel its a nightmare to find anything, it takes hours on the phone to find someone who understands what you want and when you get there you find its the wrong part.. Would appreciate if you know hydraulic hose/fittings outlets that sends stuff to Israel. As for the oil, I feel that monitoring the oil temp. and pressure is the key for making sure the engine is OK as i'm not planning to take it apart at this stage and all the "O" rings and stuff are 30 years old. Anyway, i got the gauges already.

well, expected someone to know about that hole.. anyway finally got the time to close up the sump. Was just about to replace the front PLUG with a reducer (M14x1.5 to 1/8NPT). I intend to put a Temperature gauge and the probe goes there. Found out i the PLUG is M14 x 1.25.. At Eblag /net i couldn't find any. Need help finding this reducer- M14x1.25 to 1/8.

Got my ultrasonic cleaner to work and with a good degreaser solution the OIL STRAINER filter looks as new. Managed to pop out the CONTROL PLUG with wooden spline. Still don't know how to check the regulator but will close the sump anyway, got a feeling it's OK. Now lets see who is the real expert.. In the sump there is a hole (pic) that goes nowhare!! just a 2" hole. On the other side the hole reaches the main hole of the oil filter. Any IDEA why this hole exists?

Thanx for the reply, Trying to sort out the pictures, got hell of a mess. The 1st one is before i took it apart. Is there a way to check the REGULATOR ? Any recommendations on how to clean the OIL STRAINER filter mesh? The OIL CONTROL PLUG doesn't come out. I opened the plug, the spring comes out but the plug is stuck. ant ideas??

Hello to all the pro's here, i"m amazed at the high knowledge, skillfulness and projects here. I'm rebuilding my gsxr750 86 slaby. it has been standing for the last 15 years and for the last year i'm working on it to bring it back to life. Its in great condition, about 65.000 km, never been crashed and all original. My aim is to keep it original, funds wise and i'll be happy with its original performance. I'm restoring all except the engine. I feel (hope) it will work with no need to take it apart. I have removed the oil pan, cleaned the oil sludge from pan,cleaned the oil sump filter and made my own gasket from 0.8 gasket paper. I,m just about to close the oil pan and was wondering if that would be enough before i put everything together and hope for the best. I will be adding to the instrument panel an oil temperature and a pressure gauges. I believe that monitoring the oil pressure is the key to engine endurance. Does anyone have any thoughts,perception and experience of what to do with the engine? Appreciate any help..

Thanx for the reply. As for the slide chatter, I had a big stupid grin on my face reading what you did.. Well, I thought of what you did about 15 years ago when i took the carbs apart. Now i"m rebuilding my bike and played around with my spare carbs set to determine what i need to do and order parts. I found that the chatter of the slides is because the free play of the main shaft in the carb body. I ordered IGUS - iglidur® G, sleeve bearing. I cut the 10mm bearing to about 3-4mm wide and pressed into the outer (felt) bushing (also glued in place with structural epoxy to keep it place). It works like magic.. the main shaft has no play which eliminates the slide rattle, it also makes the 4 carbs work together perfectly. Hope i helped you too :-)

Want to ask a few questions regarding the VM29 slabby carbs. "Stripped to nothing....blasted...ultrasonic'.......few new bits........modified to eliminate slide chatter...well as much as you can...." Which did you find best, the ultrasonic or the blasting? My ultrasonic does a crappy job, what liquid are you using? And with soda blasting i find it takes the shine out of the aluminum. so what the recommended way to get the carbs best restored? Where can i get the rubber parts needed for the accelerator pump rod n nozzle? how did you eliminate the slide chatter?