busa1300

I decided to unrestrict it the oldskool way, and found a Sugaya R6 SAPC box....basically a race kit box but works lights also.... Should be a perfect match when I find the right set of pipes.... Sugaya = Yoshimura 2 stroke - 4 stroke

Dyno today. It is dialed in as close as possible.....flat A/F ratio except one area about 5500/6000 it is a hair rich...So I'll drop the needle back to the middle clip and should be done. Oh yea, the clutch appeared to be slightly slipping here and there.....damn 40 year old parts just don't hold up 85.2HP at 7900....not bad for what started out as a parts bike I'll try to down load a vid to youtube and get it on here at some point.

Yes.... Being a two stroke addict, I had to have a 4 cylinder stroker.....and a RG500 in similar condition is just too much money And I didn't want a boat anchor steel frame, so I used my connection in Japan to get a home market aluminum version.

And just this week I picked up a set of competition Sugaya right side exit pipes.... I just need to get my RZV project moving along and the RGV will be up on the table next for a full on rebuild.

Then later on I picked up a good set of rear bodywork, GSXR400SP swingarm, and a VJ22 rear wheel and rotor, when I imported my VJ23 in boxes. Then when I imported my RZV in, I had another VJ21 engine thrown into the crate to add to the collection of bits.

The bike had set for untold years not running when I threw the front end parts on. So I figured before I spent any more money maybe I should see if the bike even runs. Pulled carbs and gave a good sonic clean, bottle fed it some gas and it fired right up. Then rode it up and down the road just for the hell of it.....no plates/title/lights.....just smoke Looked terrible but ran pretty good....

I parked it in a corner in the garage and went to work on the SP. Then followed Yahoo actions for various bits for the VJ21 on occasion when searching for parts for the VJ22. I managed to get a set of VJ21 SP forks, RF600 3.5 front wheel, early 600 Katana/teapot drilled rotors.... and mounted them.

I bought this VJ21 as a side note to a package deal, when I bought my VJ22 SP about 5 years ago. The SP was my main focus, but I couldn't say no to a cheap VJ21 even though it was in poor condition. It is an Australian L version so it has the 34 Mikunis and better ignition. The frame looked good and had a clean tank inside....but everything else looked like it had no love for a long long time.

Looks great, and makes me want to get mine out before the weather turns to snow. Sadly, I haven't had any of my strokers out or worked on anything since I got my new 1290 SDGT....

All 8 valve 1100's were shaft.....all 16 valve 1100's were chain.....I think 79-80 also had a chain drive GS1000L version too here. GL is shaft, and just an L should mean chain.

Wanted to double check compression just to make sure engine is still in top condition. It’s a question when it comes to getting a bike tuned just right. Bike is still putting out over 150psi in each cylinder...!!! Still planning on getting this in to a dyno, but I’ve been trying to work a deal on another bike. So the dyno time has been pushed back until I have that figured out.

Bike is now up for sale..... Time to move on to my other GS1000 https://chicago.craigslist.org/nwi/mcy/d/1978-suzuki-gs1000-left-for/6675034428.html

It feels better than the original master....I have one on my RS250, and the feel is incredible....I can bring the back up easily with my pinky finger....But I'm using Brembo 4 pad calipers on it which probably makes a big difference. I also realized that the calipers I just bought have smaller bolts going through. The bolt mounting area looks too small to drill and retap larger, and still have enough metal left to be safe....or sleeve down the bolt holes in the fork..? Or just leave the damn thing alone now, and ride it

The radial master definitely help the front brake feel, but the calipers still don’t feel right. I have a pair of brakes same the RC51....except black instead of gold. They fit the bike perfect, but I’ll need to make new brake lines to make it look right.

How does the inside of your tank look now, down by the fuel tap pickup?

I had the same problem to some degree on #1 plug.... after cleaning carbs several times I replaced the choke plunger and spring. Then cleaned everything else spotless again..... Has been working OK now.

I am using a B/King radial master cylinder with my front end (1982).....still has some lever travel, but not as much as the original master.

Since my VJ23 was working like it should, I decided I needed to get my VJ22SP out and put some miles on it to keep it cleaned out. I had only had it out one other time this whole year, and it wasn’t running as good as I thought it had the year before. So after a few miles yesterday, it started to run pretty bad....I parked it, and before I got to the fuel tap to turn it off...I had gas dripping onto the driveway. My neglect, turned into a little work in order to get it running better again. Dug into it and pulled the leaking carb off to get it cleaned out, and double check my float valve. Looked like it has been sucking in a fine film of rust from the tank. So I cleaned out the bowl and all the other holes that passed either gas or air through...bolted it back up....and realized how empty my tank was..... I think I was running out of fuel as it felt like a cylinder had quit working....but it still had enough to leak out....??? Still confused on that, but I got it fired up with some of my 110 race gas I had in the garage, then rode to the station to fill it up with premium. Runs great again....although after riding my VJ23 so much.... It feels kinda boring. I think it’s time to unrestrict it and split the cases and give it a proper resurrection, with all the new parts I can still find for it. I have new some jolly moto pipes hanging on the wall and several RS250 SAPC boxes... all I’ll really need is a few new jets, as the SP has 34’s originaly.... But Im still waiting for the right Sugaya pipes come along

Pulled carbs again. This time to move needles, and go up one main jet size. Feels a little stronger now and still pulls great from low RPMs. Have a dyno run scheduled for my RS250, and I think I will take the GS1000 along too. Get a good baseline on it to see if I’m close enough to finally leave it alone.....and just ride it.

Pulled carbs again, this time to get #1 cylinder to work better. It seemed to be running richer than the other 3. Finally decided to take all the old choke parts out and put new parts in, in case there was a weak spring or the seal at the bottom of the plunger was no longer sealing. Also put in bigger pilot jets #25, in place of the 17.5....made a big difference. Next step is move needle up one more notch just to see how it feels. Runs extremely well at very low RPMs now, but I think midrange could use just a bit more.

Almost all the gaskets/seals/cables and so on came from Suzuki. Surprisingly, there are quite a few part numbers that still work off the microfiche. Bolts came from Eblag, as did the entire front end and rear wheel. Some parts came from auctions.yahoo.co.jp, good prices but high shipping. Took about 6 months or more of collecting parts before I really ever started to tear into it much.

Time to dial in the GS better. Had carbs set so it would run, but never fine tuned them. Put in a bigger baffle for my header also, as the standard baffle is pretty small. Putting new plugs in and oil change this weekend, then I can see where to step up the fuel.

Final touches.... Got my radial master cylinder on, and brakes feel better. But I think one of theses days it will get higher quality calipers. Also got a spare tool box for the tail, so I could cut into in and fit in my Zeel ignition...and save my original box when originality has more importance than HP...