Upshotknothole

Oh yeah, always forget about the signals. I think I’m the only person I know with stock signals in the stock holes. I know about the grab rail on the 1100, I think I’ve got one or two of those things stuck in a box. If you’re painting the mids, you can always fill in the holes, though mids are pretty cheap anymore.

Trying to help a friend out that has some old I believe slabby yosh forks and no idea how much fork oil to use in them. Anyone have any ideas? I can probably get more photos if needed

Yeah, totally different heights. Between the 750 and 1100, the mids and lowers and mostly the tails are the same. Upper and bracket are totally different because of where the clipons are mounted. I think the headlights are the same, but not positive. Check Eblag here in the states, the brackets come up pretty often. I need to start working on my naked GSXRs again, I’m getting to know too much about fairings.

Which engine?

Factory Pro usually only has Mikuni emulsion tubes for the GSXRs if they have any at all. They used stock tubes, custom needles, and Dynojet used their own design for both.

Bandit 1200 exhausts are your best bet. Exhausts for 750 L/M/N(US) are the rarest of all the old GSXR exhausts at this point. I need to swap in an 1127 into mine, but currently running a full Ti Akra system off a bandit on mine. Hangs a bit low, but the 1127 lump will fix that. And plan on probably having to swap the oil pan on the 1100 to one that came off a single exhaust bike.

Local breaker or Eblag. They show up pretty often around Europe and Japan. Also I believe the L/M 750s and 1100s used the same harness, but check part numbers. New ones pretty much don’t exist anymore except for stupid money.

Those look like Mikuni RS carbs, probably 36 but ask. If they’re 34s, I’d pass on them, 36s work on an 1100, not as much top end as 38s, but more useable power for the street.

Stock carbs? I’d go with a Factory Pro stage 3 kit.

I looked awhile back for a PDF, eventually found one. Then went out to the garage and immediately found my actual Suzuki factory manual. Usually how it works out.

Honestly the only reason I’d run W forks is because I want to keep the stock gauges. It’s a 750N, that was still oil in the states, but same purple paint job you guys got on the 92 Ws. All my other GSXRs get modern suspension, and I like the idea of doing some GSXR K forks in blue, but this stupid bike I want to keep period correct.

Hopefully they have some NOS. Looks like it’s one more part that Suzuki has discontinued. Got me thinking if I have an extra one in any of my spares boxes.

Forgot the part number. 23116-27A30

Talking about this thing? There’s a couple on Eblag right now, that’s probably your best bet.

Thanks! I was gonna start on it today but can’t find the throttle tube for my push pull throttle. I’ll check my carbs and see what they currently have in them. These are a spare set that I’ve never ran and can’t remember where I got them.

Cool, I'll throw them on for the weekend and see just how stupid they are. Thanks for the insight.

I'm pretty sure I already know the answer to this, but asking here to save myself a days hassle trying it and returning it back to stock. I've got a GSXR 750M/N with the stock carbs and a warn to hell dynojet kit in them. Bike runs ok, but only gets like 30MPG on the freeway, emulsion tubes and needles are shot, usual stuff. I also have a nice clean set of Mikuni RS38s that I know are too big for the bike, but just how much too big are they? I had a J/K 748 years ago with RS36s and that bike was amazing fun, as long as you kept it over 5K. Every time I see 38s listed as being compatible for the 750s, I start to wonder a little... Just how bad will the bike be on the street with RS38s? I know I should just buy RS36s for it, but I have other priorities right now. I also don't care about bottom end, I've got a 7/11 for that. I also have an 1127 sitting on the bench that could be used once I go through it, but I really like having a 750 again.

In the past when I've had it done, they did the car exhaust for a bit and then hooked up a second tank of argon to keep the tank purged while tig welding it.

The Sudco part number should be Sudco P/N : 002-905 it's listed wrong in that thread.

They're steel and if you remove the petcock you can measure the thickness of the bottom of the tank, it's pretty thin metal. If you want to move the throttle pull to the left side, there's a thread with the part numbers. https://oldskoolsuzuki.info/forums/topic/12676-left-side-pull-mikuni-rs-flatslide-carbs/

Thanks, that's what I was looking for.

RS 38s tend to be a bitch to get in, try putting a little oil on the boots when forcing them in, and I've used everything from a ratchet strap to a 2x4 to get them to slide in. If your boots are really that hard and shrunk, it might be time to replace them before you start getting intake leaks. You could always blank off the petcock hole and get a bung welded in slightly forward where you have more room, or even move it to the rear of the tank. Is this an 1100 frame or a 7/11? I think the pingel off of one of the GSX-F models had a reserve, but I didn't see them listed on their website anymore, so not sure if they're still available or not.

You can add some spacers to the back of the tank, or go with a Pingel. The Pingel needs an adapter plate, but if space is really tight, you can get a bung welded directly to the tank instead of using the adapter. http://www.pingelonline.com/motorcycle-fuel-valves/dual-outlet-32gsxr-d-ah.asp

What Captain Chaos said. I just swapped the broken bracket on my 750N from an 1100. The tail lights are identical except for the lack the bottom being clear for the license plate light. From what I can tell everything else with the tail light assembly is the same between the 1100s, the bracket, and the trim piece.

I've always preferred Factory Pro myself. Might as well leave the stock bike stock if it's running fine. Maybe throw a stage 1 kit in to the one with the Yosh pipe. I'm guessing you're keeping these stock?