Upshotknothole

Seller got it from the tow yard that had gotten it from the insurance company after it was recovered. I'd already been paid out on it, showed the seller I was the original owner and he sold it to me for about what he had into it. $500.

So my 7/11 got stolen back in August of 2019, couple nights ago a friend saw it for sale on facebook market place, and today I started going through all the damage they did to it so I can rebuild it. Going to probably start a proper build thread once I get parts ordered, and maybe have a better idea of what direction I want to go with it this time.

Well fuck, looks like it’s something in the wiring to the acewell gauge we used. Unplug it and it fires up just fine.

Ok, this is driving us crazy. Slabbie 750 with an 03 teakettle 750 engine and harness. It’ll get derestricted later. It was running before, now we only get spark from one coil. Continuity tests good for the wires, swapped in a new ecu tonight and still the same thing. Multiple coils, and the side with the white single wire works fine, the side with the black/yellow signal wire has no spark. Sorry that it’s a teakettle and nothing cool, but we’re trying to finish this to get my friend off his old shitty Yamaha, so it’s for a good cause.

Tea kettle 750 donor engine.

Trying to finish up the slabbie with a teapot 750 engine and we had it running great on the bench, finished up some other parts of the bike and now only getting spark to one coil. Swap the leads and the spark switches. Checked continuity from the ecu to the coils and both leads are good, as are the orange/white power lines. Any way to check the ecu before ordering up another? Cheers

I've got a 94-95 swingarm, they're good for 750s, a bit short for 1100s. Though I might try sticking it in my next 7/11 build to see just how wheelie happy it makes the bike.

Thanks, grabbed a couple R6 shocks to try out.

Helping a friend out with a slabbie Franken bike, the frame, swing arm, and shock are all stock 750 parts, but with 17” wheels on it, it’s sitting too low and the shock feels pretty soft. Looking for an easy swap to jack up the rear a little and make it handle better. Would a slabbie 1100 shock be an easy fix? Thanks, and here are some photos of the build so far.

If you drill out the holes and notch one of them a little, h*nda 929 and 954 rear sets will fit, and you can still find decent aftermarket rear sets for them. You’ll need the h*nda rear master cylinder as well.

Picked the bike up finally now that it’s a roller. Has a mid to late 00s GSXR front end on it with a Triumph wheel, probably off a 675, but needs spacers made. So far it’s going to also need a tank, a new subframe welded on, seat and tail, and rear sets. I’ve got a Yosh 4-2-1 exhaust from a slingshot that I’ll be sticking on it, and either BST38s or RS38s, still leaning towards the RS38s, and maybe sticking a dot head on it.

Managed to get NOS seat bolts, look a treat better than anything from the hardware store.

And I’ve been having a hard time justifying the price of proper radial tires for the bike. I’ll get right on ordering a set of those.

Thanks for the review and good luck getting it sorted and on the road. You’ve pretty much sold me on the GP cans over the normal style.

Looks amazing, are those the higgspeed pipes? Been eyeing them for my 250 and the GP cans look sweet.

Thanks, that’s been my memory of drum brakes as well.

I’d love to ditch the stock pipes and throw some expansion chambers on them, HiggSpeed is the only place that I’ve been able to find them so far, but not looking to spend that much money on this thing just yet.

Yup, found them on there. Cheers! I need to fix a leaky petcock, the engine was recently rebuilt so it should be good, and some new tires and battery and it’ll hopefully be finished for now.

Stock petcock? Might be time to swap it for a Pingle or a NOS if it’s flowing fuel while sitting in the “ON” position with the engine off. I haven’t used the bandit petcocks, but the rebuild kits for the GSXR ones are all garbage. The float needle tips should also stop the flow if the petcock isn’t, so as said above, both should be checked. Sometimes a float can get stuck as well and will allow fuel to flow through, but the petcock still shouldn’t be free flowing. You should also plan on doing an oil change as there is definitely gas in their now.

Thanks, the bandit engine is also the fresher of the two, so I’ll plan on using it for the turbo build when the time comes.

True, I’ll have to see how it is with the stock forks and brake. I haven’t used a front drum since the old Yamaha dt400 I used to have, and it was extremely underpowered for that.

Turbo is always the answer, but I want to build an NA bike first. Which engine would be the better one to use for the turbo, 1127 or blandit?

Yeah, ideally something with the same diameter forks so I can keep the stock triples.

Currently missing the bolts and I'd like to get something that looks factory.

Last year my 7/11 was stolen and it’s time to build a new GSXR. I’ve got an 1100 rolling project to pull parts from, it currently has I think an M 1127 engine in it, RS38s, and a yosh full duplex. The 750W swing arm is a left over from when I was riding it as an 11/7 while finishing my 7/11, and for the last decade has mainly been a rolling collection of parts. The slabbie is the next one I want to build, it currently has a stock bandit 12 in it, I’ve got a dot head that I could slap on it, as well as a choice of BST38s or the slingshot RS38s. Will probably be using the Yosh I have on my slingshot on it. I’m not even sure if I can fit the BST38s with either head or if I can fit the RS38s with the dot head in that frame. I’m used to slingshots and have never used a bandit motor before, also looking for recommendations on an easy swap to get a braced swing arm in it. It does currently have a mid 2000s GSXR 1K front end on it again. So which combo of parts should I use? I’m used to the lack of bottom end with the RS38s around town, so using them again won’t be a big deal, but I would kinda like to take advantage of all that low end torque.