Reinhoud
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Posts posted by Reinhoud
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3 hours ago, MeanBean49 said:
Just that, those tope end ones fed off the rocker, are at best no benefit whatsoever, but more likely they actually reduce the oil supply/pressure to your crank and cams
I've seen a photo once where the top end oiler was connected to the return..
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On 11/21/2019 at 10:49 PM, Askamaskinservice said:
We have a guy in Sweden doing cnc-yokes for all sorts of frontforks, even stepped.
Just wanted to share and if you think it's unappropriate i will delete it @yantosh
Scheffers?
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Gents,
I snapped off that thing what is bolted in the center of the lower crank case, the timing chain runs above it.
Can I do without, or does it has a special secret purpose?
Thanks
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On 11/23/2019 at 7:59 AM, 1260Pete1 said:
Yep full external top end kit will be fitted
You can drill up the stud holes.. All you need to do is some calculation for the right size..
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On 11/22/2019 at 2:02 PM, 80GS1000 said:
Modern liter bikes come fitted with a 525 chain standard. These modern liter bikes are pushing 200 plus horsepower at the crank. I think our bikes will be just fine with a 520 or 525 chain in a good brand like DID, EK, RK etc.
Mine is pushing out about that too, and a lot more torque..
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1 hour ago, Gixer1460 said:
As a supplier they have to be conservative in their recommendations - plenty on here use 520 chain on 130+hp bikes and I have a 530 chain with 370hp - I just have to change it a bit more frequently LOL!
On a serious note, how often do you put a new chain on?
I checked my chain the other day, and with only 7000km on it, it had a lot of clearence on the links... It is a Regina (got it from the local Suzuki dealer) I've heard this is not a good quality chain..
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1 hour ago, Gixer1460 said:
I don't know your particular situation but its a bit unfair to blame the piston supplier when its generally agreed that the barrels are bored / honed to size of the pistons not expect the pistons to just 'fit' your holes unless its OEM.
When I tell JE that I have a bore of 78.25mm for turbo application, than I think I can expect they supply me with a piston with the correct size, because the bore size is leading, you need the proper size of piston rings.
Our expectations of an exact copy also differ, sizes are different, weights are different..
They asked me the size of the wrist pins, and the size of the groove for the piston pins, I send them a sample.
When you have a machine shop, you have the tools to measure what you machined, when you provide a service where you can copy a product, you should have the tools to take the measurements.
It's not like there are 5 different sizes of 18mm wrist pins, or multiple thicknesses of piston rings.. I got a bit nervous when I received those question, and with reason..
Their machines are very accurate I noticed, that wasn't the problem, all 4 pistons are the same size, measured with a micrometer acurate to 0.01mm.
Quality control in a machine shop is a job on my resume.
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So, no reason to be scared?
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7 hours ago, GSX1100dreamn said:
That worries me a bit, I thought that a 520 chain could handle enough power, but when I look at that chart it looks like I better keep my 630 chain..
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Tip for taking away material from the crank cases.
Have a disc made up with the stock barrel size on one side, and the barrel size of the big bore barrels on the other side.
Put a cylinder base gasket over the position bushes with the disc positioned in the base gasket.
Now mark the crank case where to remove material.
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That's what I have too, means you have to take away material from the crankcases.
When you have it running, I guarantee you, you won't regret it!! 78.5mm will give you about 1250cc.
Stock pins are 18mm, I ordered pistons from JE, but they fucked up pretty bad.. The pistons are too big for the piston clearence they set for their own product.
Wiseco?
I'm not sure, but may be wrist pins for GSX 1100? I think they have a wall thickness of 3.5mm instead of the 2mm from the GS1000
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Gents,
I'm thinking of putting a smaller chain on the 1000, anyone who has done this before? Did you notice any difference in performance? Or a more smooth running of the chain?
I'm a pretty clueless regarding this, so all information is welcome.
The amount of teeth on the sprockets changes too, doesn't it?
I do have an off set sprocket on the front, and I'd like to keep the stock ratio, can anyone point me in the right direction, please?
Thanks
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13 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:
Engine kill when the knob is in NA timing mode - when its turned to retard / boosted settings the Orange enables the retard addition - used it on mine and worked fine ie. it didn't kill the spark!
Now I'm confused..
NA or boost mode? Mine has a rev limiter and a retard function on it, on the retard function there is a test thingy, but that's all. Can you explain it to me, please, I think I'm missing something..
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15 hours ago, wombat258 said:
Only on the Dyna 2000 with the programmable option. The unit is easily identified by the extra 3 wires coming out of the box. From memory the purple wire activates the retard function, blue or white wires are are programmable rpm switches (I use them for shift lights). The orange wire in the harness activates the engine kill.
I used the purple one, that made it kill the ignition, took me a while to figure that out, because I did it according to the manual..
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On 10/20/2019 at 8:27 AM, MeanBean49 said:
I found mine runs best and makes most power on a stock gsxr ignition curve, no extra retard at all. My old kit without intercooler needed a couple of degrees off at the top as it didnt like it with the stock advance and higher inlet temp.
I found with mine also that it runs best on standard settings, also with the camshaft.
The Dyna does has a function that it can retard the ignition when on boost.
When I connected that the bike just died when it hit boost, I think the manual had it wrong wich wire should do this..
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On 10/19/2019 at 10:33 PM, Blower1 said:
Right ignition timing is depending on many factors; compression ratio, boost, fuel, combustion chamber design, etc.
To get it right needs a lot of dyno tuning time.
About twin spark I know that old Harley engines with hemispherical combustion chamber, after twin spark modification
ignition need to be retarded about 5 degrees.
Here is my supercharged EFE´s ignition map. Engine is 1327cc, 12:1 comp and it´s using E85 fuel.
I have the impression that with my bike the timing doesn't need to be retarded because of the twin spark. I added a couple degrees for the twinspark and a couple degrees for turbo, I'm quiet sure it was too much retard in the end.
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Just curious.. and hopefully I get some useful information..
At how many degrees did you adjust your ignition?
I've got an 8 valve engine, Dyna 2000 ignition, the manual says 37 degrees, I also have a twin spark head, "they" say you can retard the ignition a couple of degrees because of that too.
So turbo and twin spark, I retarded the ignition about 7 degrees if I remember correctly, but while experimenting with the timing I found out you lose a fair bit of power with the ignition too much retarded.
On the net I read 28 degrees ignition timing, but isn't that too much?
I've got 1245cc big bore on my GS1000, with the ignition on about 30 degrees she went alright, but nothing spectacular, my mates CBR1000 was stronger in the lower revs... But when I set the ignition on 33 degrees the GS stood straight up on the rear weel in 3rd gear off boost.. It makes a lot of difference. It was the same it threw a rod
I know there are a couple of members who have EFI and haven't got the ignition retarded..
So, what did you do?
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On 10/11/2019 at 7:36 AM, Ghost said:
I’m going to use je stock bore maybe slightly lower compression
Do it right straight away, cheaper in the long run, I promise...
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On 10/15/2019 at 9:23 PM, MeanBean49 said:
My plenum is relatively small but the intercooler acts like a secondary plenum
Ah, that works too?
My first plenum was too small, would hardly run of boost..
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On 9/28/2019 at 2:46 AM, Ghost said:
Looking for info on how to turbo my carbed say what now!? 750 w
It's pretty simple, make sure the carbs in good condition, new gaskets and stuff, pitot tubes in the up pipe, and on that you connect the float bowl breather pipes.
Some bikes are sensitive on the size of the plenum, mine was, here on this site is also someone who got away with a small plenum. Rule of thumb, plenum size is 2 times the displacement of the engine. If I remember correctly..
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28 minutes ago, Dezza said:
The OEM units are all probably made in China too. The cheap ones are only available as western tight-arses ask them to make such stuff
I bought a Bosch ignition coil for my car last week, made in China on the sticker..
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Stock Suzuki is crap.
Don't go cheap, Electrex is good apparently, hasn't failed on mine so far..
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No one ever told you about the unwritten rule that when the cylinders come of you need to put a high compression big bore kit on?
Off course this goes together with a proper camshaft and matching Mikuni RS carbs...
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I got my new pistons in, put one of them in a cylinder, put the lot in the oven on 150 degrees, piston had quite a bit of resistance when I moved it up and down...
GS1000 timing chain guide
in Air Cooled
Posted
I figured out that the front guide is held in place with that thingy..
So I put it back in.