Reinhoud
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Posts posted by Reinhoud
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15 hours ago, Blubber said:
Would have helped if you posted these pics of your oil feed... eigenwijze Drenthenaer
Wie ben jij op MF?
Je vergeet koppig.
It's still just a scavenge pump..
The pump on the bottom plate is the turbo feed, the pump on the side is the scavenge.
It was a genuine question, I heard about it, and sounds like a legit thing, gravity drain vs sucking the oil out of the turbo, would it make a difference?
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20 hours ago, no class said:
you must have that "new style" gravity defying set-up ......
Nah, real simple, make a breather in it so there's no "vacuum" anymore.
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21 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:
Gravity doesn't really work if the turbo core drain is below the running oil level - its not a new phenomenon!
Yes it can, mine drops it in the tank, from there it's sucked out of the tank.
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I was told that sucking the oil out of the turbo isn't too good, that the oil needs to drain from the turbo by gravity.
Therefore I made a breather in my little catch tank. It works alright.
Has anyone else heard about this?
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Bike is running.
The wiring still needs to be finished, fired up straight away, looks like there is a minor oil leak, I think the starter motor..
No excesive smoke or vibrations, runs reasonably well actually, haven't had a ride yet, but on the driveway the engine feels very torquie.
Carburetors need to be synchronized, and I want to check the ignition timing between cylinders 1/4 and 2/3.
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Looks like the purple wire activates the retard mode. When I hold the strobe on it the timing moves a bit when I ground the purple wire.
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2 hours ago, mikeyd said:
You have to be sure the dial is on one of the retard numbers, I think if you try to run one of the curves, it will function as a side stand/engine kill.
I'm pretty sure it's set right..
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12 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:
There are two versions of Dyna 2000 - early ones were pre-programmed with fixed advance and retard curves, the later ones (2000i) were programmable and curves could be changed.
Early ones had the orange wire, later used a purple and a white. How are you testing this to get the results you are? What value of retard are you dialing in?
I'm pretty sure I've got the old one, the white wire goes to one of the coils.
I was thinking of 8 degrees retard, 4 is the minimum, 8 is the next step up. I have a stroob to check ignition timing.
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I read somewhere that the puple/violet wire is for the retard, Is this true?
If yes, how come my manual says it's the orange wire?
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6 hours ago, siggy said:
OK hit abit of a annoyance ! I had to line the tank as it was getting pretty rusty, filled her up and now the tank is pressurizing and weaping fuel out of the front breather hose.
I take it the breather hole ? is somewhere in the tank or is there one in the filler cap ?
Why pressurize the tank? There's no pressure in it when in use.
Use electrolisis to get rust out of the tankk, it's slow but works realy well.
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Gents,
I've got my bike running, but when I set the ignition on the retard mode and I connect the orange wire to groud the engine dies.
This is what happened the first time when I had it turbo'od too, back then I thought I might have connected the wrong wire.
I did read the manual, it says the orange wire is normally the side stand safety switch, but when set on retard mode, it should retard the ignition when it is grounded, but with mine it still works as the side stand safety thingy, I think..
Am I doing something wrong? Or something wrong with my CDI?
My knowledge regarding electronics is very limited, so I thought I better ask before I wreck it it completely.
Thanks
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19 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:
There's a project for someone with a 3D printer - leverless std. microswitch in printed frame with diaphragm and plunger ? What sort of pressure are you wanting to operate at? I'm guessing with all the solid state electronics on cars nowadays, old skool 'mechanical' stylee Hobbs switches are becoming redundant?
I'm after an adjustable one, I think somewhere around 4 psi.
Those Hobbs switches are a bit big.
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21 hours ago, no class said:
I used 2 of these back when I had my slingy drawthrough.....1 for the retard activation and the other for the water/meth injection..... as they were adjustable , it was easy to set the pressure using a air compressor set at the desired presure.... wired in a 12v power supply and light.....adjust the screw until the light came on and when all was set..... installed on the bike ..... worked out great .
Yeah, that's about what I had too..
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I did find those.. Couple of years ago there was a lot more choice I think..
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This plenem was the third, I had 2 smaller ones before, the first one it would hardly run on, while other bikes had no problems with that type of plenum, the 2nd one was a lot better, but still crap.
The side fed is because there is not much room down there. My first plenum was fed from the center.
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12 minutes ago, clivegto said:
Nice progress @Reinhoud I see your plenum is side fed is it baffled inside.
No baffles.. No plenum expert
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I cleaned the carbies today, damn, what a smell came out of them! The carbies have been laying in a corner of the shed for several years..
Yesterday I got a new chain, all installed.
Waiting for gaskets, when I have those I can put all the covers on the engine.
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I have planned to use the retard mode of my Dyna 2000 ignition, when I had my bike going the first time I had a boost switch, but I connected it apparently to the wrong wire, so I didn't use the retard mode in the end.
I did had an adjustable boost switch, but I can't find it anymore, and the choice on the net is not great.
What kind of boost switch do you have, and where from?
Thanks
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The old Suzuki racing/ss bikes look so much better than the modern bikes...
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I have a site where I can find all the part numbers and exploded views.
I needed dimensions, that's the problem.
But I already have a pump, it was from a GSX750, the first with plain bearing crank.
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The billet clutch basket came in today, about a week earlier as expected.
Put the basket in the lathe straight away to take 7mm of to make it fit in a GS crankcase.
Clutch is working again.
Getting somewhere.
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I did some more research, more an attempt to.. But I might be after the oil pump from a GSX750 from between 1983 - 1986.
Anyone here who has an oil pump from this bike and wants to measure the thickness of the rotors for me?
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6 hours ago, CockneyRick said:
GS1000 with a Non Black frame, You need a slap
Dark red frame with dark blue blue tank , covers, mud guard, rear end...
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Powdercoat, it's easier, cheaper and stronger.
Turbo oil return scavenger pump
in Forced Induction
Posted
The weird thing is; of all the start up problems I had with my project, all the home made stuff worked very well, and that was actually the thing I thought I might have getting troubles with..