Reinhoud
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Posts posted by Reinhoud
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On 4/24/2020 at 10:34 PM, Swirl said:
I got a price of r upperton to weld the crank, surprisingly reasonable, thought it was gonna be more,
Keep the power under control! to about 180/190HP should be safe on stock rods, keep the revs down too.
Do it accidently right and get a spike in power, and before you know it one of the con rods is going to have a look outside.. Ask me how I know
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23 hours ago, Swirl said:
Is that GSX then
It's hard to find stuff like that for a GS, that GSX part fits a GS
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On 4/24/2020 at 7:17 PM, CockneyRick said:
I have a GSX lockups, but the spacer is totally different to a GS
Center photo, the right one is what I have in my GS
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21 hours ago, CockneyRick said:
I'd say just use a lockup, problem is getting the parts.
SPS reckon the GSX extended rack will work in a GS (I'm sceptical) & also he hasn't got any spacers but will get more made as soon as he gets another order.
Either way the full kit is £494, individually the spacer is £180 & rack is £126
Use a lock up from a GSX, SPS has them.
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18 minutes ago, Swirl said:
Is there any benefit in this or just use a lockup with the gs clutch basket
GSX clutch baskets are stronger than GS baskets, I was told
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3 hours ago, CockneyRick said:
Surely if you're taking meat off the clutch basket, in effect you're turning it into a GS1000 basket & defeating the point?
That's why SPS has produced that (7mm?) spacer plate so you keep the extra plates in the GSX clutch, & also explains why the rack is longer on std & lockup versions
That doesn't fit, the clutch basket goes behind the crankcase, the GSX basket will not fit in the GS1000 crankcase unless there's 7mm taken off
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On 3/4/2016 at 3:55 AM, wraith said:
Will the gs1000 clutch plats fit the gsx basket?
Yes.
I have a GSX1100 basket in my GS1000, again, about 7mm need to be taken off, you need a lathe to do that, or be a master with a hecksaw
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On 2/26/2016 at 7:57 AM, Duckndive said:
Cams are completely different..........
GSX clutch has extra plates ......so you need basket and hub.......I think they put the GSX basket on the GS gear...
....Garry Hurd or Roger Upperton will know 100% 
GSX clutch fits a GS1000, but you need to take about 7mm of the basket.
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Red are the breathers, the fuel supply line is in the center, the vacuum line is on one of the carbs
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I've got a set of GSX750 carbies, I do have a jet, but my carbies have only one jet I can take out, the other side looks fixed.
The jet I have has 150 stamped in it, if I read it correctly.
You can have it if it's the right size.
I can send you the housing of 1 carb if you can't find anything.
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What's the number on the needle?
I've got a 5C32, you can have if it's the same..
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That carbie, does the slide run over bearings? Slide in 2 parts?
I had a 42mm carby, Mikuni used on Harleys, on my DR500, awesome carbies, ran really well, that acceleration pump works well too.
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With this setup with supercharger, is the power coming in like normal, but a lot more?
I understand that when you use such through turbochargers the powerdelivery is more like a 2 stroke..
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1 hour ago, Swirl said:
Most of the bits I need now I've sold over the last couple of years, I sold all bandit 12 running gear 3 weeks ago with wavey discs the lot would of been perfect,
You always need the parts just after you sold them...
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On 4/8/2020 at 10:31 PM, Swirl said:
750 oil pump should help as well as restriction for oil pressure
Not the pump, the gears.
I've got the gear on the pump if you need one, the gear behind the clutch is harder to come by, not cheap when you buy it new either.
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Yeah, that's what I mean, I think the GS1000 with shaft drive have them, probably other models too, but I don't know which ones
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A head from a GS1000G is a good option, these bikes have the 34mm CV carbies from factory
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When you use HD studs you don't have to use top end oiler, you can drill up the hole in the cylinder block and the head partly, 1.5 bigger is sufficient according to my calculations
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HD studs is also recomended, 12.9 bolts around the crank on the bottom of the crankcase.
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You also can raise the oil pressure a little by making a restrictor in the oil way towards the gearbox, under the oil pressure light pick up cover
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I forgot something, plenum needs to be at least 2 times the displacement of the engine
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On 4/8/2020 at 6:30 PM, clivegto said:
You need to use 1127 or b12 liners but I belive they come through the block after boring, oil leakage is a problem.
Yeah, but easy to fix, take an artist brush and liquid gasket, and smear it around the liners.
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On 4/8/2020 at 5:41 PM, Swirl said:
Advice from the turbo gods needed, never turbo'd a bike before defo not a air cooled dinosaur, bought a GS1000 frame last night for some reason, on a rather handy Q plate, it's going to be a long term project as I've got a butchered Z1-R build on the go and scratch built 327cui small block chevy trike to finish, so I've got the opportunity to buy a Gs1000 engine with the top end disassembled, question is what's required to turbo a GS1000 engine or do i just throw a B12 in because it's easier. I'm not going for massive HP or boost(queue you will when you've got the turbo bug), will probably be going 1085cc if I can get the pistons, I believe they have a roller bearing crank where the oil pressure is to low for the turbo oil feed, how do I get round that, external electric oil pump? Is it the same principle as building a b12 turbo, forged pistons(low comp ratio) can you use busa pistons or card the wrist pins different, get the block bored, maybe welded crank, external oil pump, gasket set, base gasket to set deck height, ape studs and goodies, oh and 750 internal oil pump, what's best for the first turbo adventure Draw through or blow through, thanks in advance I'm on a steep learning curve.
Low comp forged pistons
Ball bearing turbo, I've got a VF20, seems to be good enough.
GSX1100 carbies, GS1000 are slide carbies
GSX1100 clutch basket, you have to take about 7 or 8 mm of to make it fit in a GScrankcase
Use GS750 oil pump gears to get more revs, not sure what width the GS1000 oil pump is, if it's 10mm, there is a 14mm oil pump what fits
I build mechanical oil pumps for turbo feed and drain.
If you go electric scavenge you probably need a stator/dynamo what has more output then the stock one
Welded crank is a must, and don't go over 180hp, it should be alright till about that, if you want more you need stronger rods (I've got 493 Katana)
Twin spark works wonders preventing detonation I noticed, reasonably easy to do yourself if you have a mill available, but you need 4 x 1.5 Ohm coils and Dyna 2000 ignition, with the ignition set at the stock setting till at least 7 psi no detonation
If you keep the stock bore the stock head gasket will do I guess, if you go big bore the Cometic fibre ones will do. Don't try f#ck around with copper ones
Weld second gear of the gearbox
I was told that if you stay below somewhere about 180 crank HP, the internals should be able to handle it
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I torque my GS1000 to 40Nm, that's a bit more as what the specs say, but goes alright.
I don't think a GSX will be much different.
Rocker gasket
in Air Cooled
Posted
As long as the rubber isn't too hard it should be ok