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Reinhoud

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Posts posted by Reinhoud

  1. Gents,

     

    I'm after an oil pump from a GSX1100, the shape gears are the same as from a GS, and probably all GSX models, but the gears I'm after are 19mm wide.

    Does anyone knows which model and year GSX these gears have?

     

    I bought one in the past, but can't remember what the model/year was. I made oil pumps for my bike, so it's all DIY.

    If anyone has one for sale would be even better.

     

    Thanks :)

    gears.jpg

    gear.jpg

  2. The reason I ask is because I don't know what is ok.

    I know what oil pressure a car has, I also know what oil pressure my bike has, bugger all, if I don't put a restrictor in the feed line I loose the little bit of pressure I have.

    I know a ball bearing turbo doesn't need much oil, but what would be the minimum?

    That's why this makes it difficult.

     

    I had hoped I can lose the oil feed pump I made and connect it to oil gallery behind the cylinders, but may be I should keep it like it was.

  3. Gents,

     

    I could find anything with the search thingy..

     

    Um, rollerbearing crank and ball bearing turbo, I made myself a banjo bolt to connect the oil feed to the turbo, I drilled a 0.8mm hole in it, is that sufficient?

    I understand from what I read here on the forum that the restrictors are pretty small with ball bearing turbo's..

     

    Thanks.

    banjo.jpg

  4. Got some parts in yesterday, now I can do a lot!

    Saving up for the billet clutch basket now.

    Frame has been powder coated, new inner tube in the front fork, headlight got a new layer of chrome, new front tyre.

    Today I put the cylinders and the head on.

     

     

    Cilinders.jpg

    • Like 1
  5. On 2/9/2020 at 12:00 AM, Poldark said:

    The part of the frame near the air filters.  There is less material there, but at least most of the forces acting there are compressive and not bending.  Some bending may be induced in the curved portion of those two tubes.  Some the example photos show reinforcement in that area.

    The "further back" had me thinking of a reference to the rider being the problem.

    A cross  in the frame behind the carburetors is probably one of the best spots to reinforce.

    Welding brackets in the top tubes at the end, above the carbies, might look like it does something, and it probably does, but the tubes below that are probably not very strong/stiff.

    Imo the head stock is about the stiffest spot in the frame..

    The places where stiffness can be achieved isn't accessable because of the engine, again, just my opinion.

  6. I've been in contact with JE, and they made and send me 2 new pistons, for free, without hesitation!! I'm impressed with that!

    Weird thing, they charged me $340 to send me 4 pistons, they only paid $103 postage to send me 2 pistons in the same size box.. ;)

     

    Another problem solved.

    • Like 3
  7. Meanwhile I've got some wrist pins, I ordered a set from a Gen 2 Hayabusa, but these were too short, 3mm wall thickness.

    Then I ordered a set from a GSX1100 with the 493 conrods, also 3mm wall thickness, but these are too long, but that doesn't matter, I can make them shorter.

     

    So, problem solved!

  8. On 2/3/2020 at 5:02 PM, kiwisuzuki1100nz said:

    Anyone had better luck with the lying the engine on the side and lowering the frame over it?

    Just tried a trolley jack with bike in rear stand and it is a complete bastard to try and get back in as the engine wants to fall forward. Hence why I am keen to try the engine on its side and lower the frame on to it

    That's the best way.

  9. 11 hours ago, gorbys said:

    So basically riding any B-road or mountain pass here in Norway then? xD

    That's why I posted in the first place to get some feedback since all the guides tend to the gsx. 

    Anyways, isn't the point of bracing the headstock like this to prevent lateral or twisting motion

    Than the headstock isn't the problem, the problem is further back..

  10. 13 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:

    I doubt very much the benefit of adding tubes to the headstock achieves any measurable difference! Arttu's arrangement using plate gussets adds far more rigidity in engineering terms. The frame with the std. spine plates  removed will be significantly worse for flex compared to stock as the lower bearing area has less restraint ie. with a lot of load via the forks it could fold inwards. Rule of bracing - make triangles, That one has a nice rhomboid behind what it is trying to brace! 

    I agree, when you look at the structure it is already pretty sturdy.

     

    Just other/modern forks and wheels made quite a difference.

    • Like 2
  11. 54 minutes ago, dedubyah said:

    I think that its a GSX400X, also known as the Impulse or Bandit

    The photo I posted is the GSX400x, I knew it was also called the impulse, didn't know about Bandit. I'm not good with models/names.

     

    I'm probably the only one who likes the GSX400x, had a look at one as a first bike, long time ago.

  12. 8 hours ago, Dezza said:

    No, I do not think it came with a fairing. 400 f = four; 400 t = twin. The t came as either GS or GSX depending on spec/market, if I remember correctly.

    400.jpg

    Nah, that's not the one I had in mind..

    This is the one I was thinking of, forgot that there are about a million different models..

     

    gsx400x.jpg

  13. 33 minutes ago, Dezza said:

    How many cylinders does the engine have? In the early 80s Suzuki produced a four cylinder air-cooled GSX 400. If you have one of those it will generate much more interest on here than if it's a GSX(GS) 400 twin.

    Is that the one with the weird sort of fairing on the front?

  14. 2 hours ago, Harleybane said:

    G'day to you all. 

    I got my hands on a dirt cheap fully functional gsx 400 e 1983. 

    I'm thinking about butchering it to a brat but I have really hard time finding decent info and inspo on this particular bike.

     

    So I'm curious if the gsx is same frame roughly as the GS series? As far as I can find it's just engine difference?

     

    Thanks in advance.

    All you need is an angle grinder and a welder.

    • Like 2
  15. 5 hours ago, Ronny said:

    Mmmm, dunno about hacking lumps out of the pivot! Shame, because I think the alloy one would look really nice, might look into it as an “evo” mod...

    I've got a Bandit 1200 rear fork in my GS1000, looks great!

    • Like 1
  16. On 1/12/2020 at 3:25 AM, Ronny said:

    Cheers mate, but it’s for the 550 project which has absolutely bugger all clearance with a 600 one in there. The 600 pivot is 38mm OD so the extra 4mm would definitely foul the crankcase. Never mind 9_9

    ;)

    ag.jpg

    bg.jpg

    • Like 1
  17. 4 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:

    No one mentioned 1100 crank! So as I said, 78mm bore is 78mm bore and it only changes via stroke - not rods!

    I thought I just give some additional information.. ;) I saw the number 1260

  18. 5 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:

     

    So which is it? Using longer or shorter rods won't make any difference with capacity unless the crank is stroked / de - stroked !

     

    6 hours ago, Brizznasty said:

    Use the gs1100 rods on the 1000 crank there 18mm wrist pin then the 78mm gpz pistons. Really good combo about 1260cc. 

    1100 rods are 1.5mm longer than 1000 rods, 78mm on a 1000 crank will give you 1238cc, 78mm on a 1100 crank will give you 1260cc

    • Like 2
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